McCulloch Chain Saws

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Well, started cleaning up this 840. I don’t know anything about the Macs and I’m afraid of screwing something up. To be honest I have too many projects going right now and don’t really forsee getting to this monster anytime soon.

Anyone have any interest in it?
 
Thanks for the info.. Does help.. I think I'll chip it but keep points for backup.. Does 1 size fit all, or different chips for different makes? Seems like all my big saws are a kick start machine..

I have they grey chips (Nova?) that came in a few saws I bought. They bite back. I have a couple of factory chipped Homelites as well. They bite back where as the points and module fitted saws of the same model don't.
OK if you pull hard and fast.
 
Every saw I've had that came with a chip ran like crap. After I put points back in they ran great. Only one saw I have runs good with a chip and that my Homelite super 1130G. Other than that I have no use for chips. I prefer to keep saws original myself.

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I just picked up a Homey 1050 for a sawbuck out of a pawn shop. I'm about 140 pounds with just sneakers on.. Pretty glad I don't do/process big trees much. Damn thing will wear ya out.. I'll stick with my PM55.. thanks for the input
 
Indeed there were cases for the PM6, Mini Mac and 600 Series as Joey points out, cases for the 10-10 (not sure if they work with a brake model), 300 Series, and for the later plastic Mac saws. I once carried a D-30 is a case as well but I don't remember what saw the case was intended for, it was black. All of the older McCulloch cases were yellow, the ones for the newer saws were black.

PM6

View attachment 619828

600 Series

View attachment 619835

That's a case for a 10-10 on top of the pile.

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NIB Mini Mac with case

View attachment 619837

They actually show up on e-bay quite frequently.

Mark
Thanks Mark and Joey! As always your knowledge is over whelming!
 
Well, started cleaning up this 840. I don’t know anything about the Macs and I’m afraid of screwing something up. To be honest I have too many projects going right now and don’t really forsee getting to this monster anytime soon.

Anyone have any interest in it?
I am very tempted for a big cube saw and it is right up my alley, but I have a couple too many saws as it stands, need to offload a few myself. They are very robust saws and very easy to work on. There is a great group of guys on here who would walk you through the process of anything you could possibly imagine. Don't be afraid of screwing stuff up on it, they are nearly indestructible and parts are readily available for just about anything on them.
 
e5997244ef83b5cddc6d2b4c5d9c464c.jpg


Examining parts from my 125 while waiting on cylinder and noticed the back of my flywheel is a little damaged, looks like bolt or something rattled out and caused this at some time. Worth replacing or just run it?


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Thanks Tim
Not seeing much wrong with it so far
Wierd chain and starter screen broken but minor issues
Started cleaning and like what i see

You need to get a longer bar. Starter screens are rare. See if you can save it.

I would like to see a pic of the weird chain.

I can't see from your pics but does it have a roller where the starter rope exits the cover?

I was cutting up some dirty wood today. Making sparks with my PM55.
 
I can save the screen it is sll there and can tie it or fashion a tabbed metal joiner of some sort.

I ordered a 20" b&c for it that is currently on my P41

The starter has the fairlead roller

I will get a pic of chain. It has depthers that look like cutters
 
I can save the screen it is sll there and can tie it or fashion a tabbed metal joiner of some sort.

I ordered a 20" b&c for it that is currently on my P41

The starter has the fairlead roller

I will get a pic of chain. It has depthers that look like cutters

Maybe an Oregon Vanguard chain? Very common safety chain here.

vanguard.jpg
 
e5997244ef83b5cddc6d2b4c5d9c464c.jpg


Examining parts from my 125 while waiting on cylinder and noticed the back of my flywheel is a little damaged, looks like bolt or something rattled out and caused this at some time. Worth replacing or just run it?


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Problem is the flywheel is a balanced component. Since it attaches directly to the crank if it isn’t well balanced it will cause excessive pressures on the crank/bearings/seals if there is any “wobble”.

Yes, they get caked up with saw dust/oil/crud, which can and will cause the same issues. Most people don’t properly clean these parts and when the saw turns to **** just go buy another one. This is why we clean our equipment. Preventative maintenance is key to longevity.

I say replace it.
 
Teraing into this 840 and it doesn’t have any spark. I cleaned the points, cleaned the pickup/coil and flywheel and all the wiring so I am leaning towards a bad condensor. Can I use a “universal” style condensor or should I go the ‘chip’ route?
 
Find another condenser, you will like the spark with that old magneto.

That is Vanguard chain, I send all mine to Philbert...

Speaking of sawdust screens for the 10 Series, I am have some Engineers innovating with our 3D printer where I work, part is currently being printed in PETG.

20171129_112904_resized.jpg

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20171211_125219.jpg

I've got a couple going out for some testing by members, hope to have them available early next year.

Mark
 
Regarding the flywheel, it has been pointed out by far more knowledgeable members than me that a single cylinder engine will never have good balance, you are not likely to be able to pick up the difference even if you have one or two fins broken off which is a lot more material than the little bit scratched up by your loose bolt. If the mechanical damage affects the way the flywheel fits or aligns with the other parts underneath, I should be able to help you with a replacement.

20170615_171444.jpg

Mark
 

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