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Well guys,I finally got around to tearing down the E.B.2014 earlier today.My God I've never seen so much oil in a saw in my life! I found out what the problem was as to why it wasn't oiling at the bar pad.The line that goes from the tank to the oil pump barb inlet was disintegraterd.I had to pull the flywheel to get a look at the pump & the line going to the bar pad,that was in remarkably good condition.I'm going to assume that the pump is still good,unless the little bit that I ran it with no oil going through it did some damage,but the saw never got hot.The oil line with the pick up was just laying in the tank,so a new line from the tank to the oil pump is all it needs,BUT when I split the saw in half the trigger assembly did NOT stay in the other handle half.I've got trigger parts & a spring that came apart & I have no idea how it goes back together again.Looking at an IPL & actually seeing it in pieces are two totally different things.I'm not sure I can get this saw back together again.
Ed
 
NorthEast Tennessee Saturday MAC Report

Not much to report today. Brian is under the weather so he didn't cut today and once again my latest MAC worthy tree fell victim to another. This time the son of the tree owner decided this morning that he wanted to try and sell the main trunk, so the only MAC action was my favorite PM800 severing the trunk, bucking a few pieces and twice rescuing my favorite off brand 59cc saw.

As most here know to expect little in the way of pictures when I am cutting alone, I have only one picture to share.

Ron

MAC with its nose pinched.
IMG_4001.JPG

This valuable report is provided through the the generous support of MacNuts like you and Blind Squirrel Falling, one of America's greatest imaginary businesses.
 
I went to my local saw shop today & talked with the owner,who I've known for over 35 yrs.I told him of my dilemma with the E.B.2014.He told me that he had a similar situation happen to him when he first started working on Stihls.He had an ST 200 that he messed with for quite a while on trying to put the trigger assembly back together with bo success.He finally called Stihl's tech support & the tech told him to take a new St 200 off the shelf & VERY CAREFULLY take the handle apart enough to see how it goes together.He did that & was able to get the trigger assembly put back together & WORKING AGAIN.i TOLD HIM THAT i'VE GOT A 3816 THAT HAS THE SAME PROBLEM WITH THE OILER NOT WORKING,SO i CAN MAYBE TAKE THAT SAW APART TO SEE HOW THE TRIGGER ASSEMBLY GOES BACK TOGETHER AGAIN.iF THAT DOESN'T WORK,WELL i GUES i'VE GOT TWO SAWS THAT ARE GOOD FOR THE RECYCLE BIN.
Ed (stupid caps lock,Lol)
 
So all I wanted to do here was replace the oiler knob Ron so graciously sent me for my PM800. LOL

0105192029_resized.jpg
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Had a major brain fart and sorta (as in completely) forgot about the pin that holds it in place. And since there was a screw in place of the knob as a workaround I wasn't even thinking about the flat side of the knob and the pin as the stop. And to be honest, the area was so dirty I couldn't see the pin anyway. I just happened to notice the one for the choke knob..., and immediately felt like a total dumbass. Coulda done this job in 15 minutes by just loosening he tank and probably not even removing the carb. Could actually have just replaced the knob itself now that I realize it's only a press fit on the rod. Didn't realize that either even though it's a separate item in the IPL. Figured there was some adhesive in the mix somewhere and didn't want to chance breaking the new knob too so went with replacing the whole rod.

0105192029a_resized.jpg
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Oh well, the saw is way overdue for a good cleaning and I also found the ground wire at the ignition module just hanging by a thread which ended up breaking when I pulled the kill wire to the switch. Also got to use some SAE tools for a change. Sure did make a mess, tho. That poor little Husky over to the side doesn't know what to think. LOL
 
PogoInTheWoods said:
So all I wanted to do here was replace the oiler knob Ron so graciously sent me for my PM800. LOL

Had a major brain fart and sorta (as in completely) forgot about the pin that holds it in place. And since there was a screw in place of the knob as a workaround I wasn't even thinking about the flat side of the knob and the pin as the stop. And to be honest, the area was so dirty I couldn't see the pin anyway. I just happened to notice the one for the choke knob..., and immediately felt like a total dumbass. Coulda done this job in 15 minutes by just loosening he tank and probably not even removing the carb. Could actually have just replaced the knob itself now that I realize it's only a press fit on the rod. Didn't realize that either even though it's a separate item in the IPL. Figured there was some adhesive in the mix somewhere and didn't want to chance breaking the new knob too so went with replacing the whole rod.

Oh well, the saw is way overdue for a good cleaning and I also found the ground wire at the ignition module just hanging by a thread which ended up breaking when I pulled the kill wire to the switch. Also got to use some SAE tools for a change. Sure did make a mess, tho. That poor little Husky over to the side doesn't know what to think. LOL
Click to expand...
It's thinking you're a savage for ripping apart his cousin and he is trying to figure out how to get out without you noticing.
 
You know Ron,I really don't feel bad now after what happened with my baby Mac.Lol I pulled apart a 2-10 about 6 weeks ago.It had the low profile airbox on it with the bullfrog carb.The primer knob was broke off.I figured I could just replace the bullfrog carb with an SDC,NOT.I went through all that work for nothing,but I didn't lose that little pin!.
Ed
 
I made a special punch of sorts to help replace those tiny roll pins, just a piece of bar stock with a small hole in the end to hold the pin when you try to start it back in the hole. Much easier than pounding on you fingers and it causes me to be much more inclined to knock the pins out when it helps with a task.

20181012_112455.jpg

Mark
 
Very clever Mark.I know what you mean about banging your fingers.I think I ended up using a needle nose pliers to hold the pin,but gotta be careful when the pin is hit,if not hit squarely it'll want to launch itself into orbit.
Ed
 
All back together and happy..., and clean(er). I use a 1/16" punch for the pins. Punch them out from the top and tap back in from the bottom with a very small hammer. So far so good.

0106191908_resized.jpg
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But I ended up with a spare screw that drove me nuts trying to figure out where it went. LOL Seriously, I actually forgot that's what I was replacing with the new knob. :dizzy:

0106191909_resized.jpg



​
 
So Ed, here's your trigger arrangement. Doesn't get much simpler than this. Should be a 20 second job getting things back in place and another few minutes screwing the covers back together. Done.

Square 1...

0106191936_resized.jpg
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Pieces parts...

0106191934_resized.jpg
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Trigger over post with throttle rod attached to the carb and trigger. The rod can conveniently go either direction. Spring is installed with the short end against the handle (bottom of the post) and to the rear of the little peg.

0106191932a_resized.jpg
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Long leg of the spring bends downward and wraps underneath the lockout lever which simply fits over the post at the rear of the handle and rides against the trigger in the front where it either locks the trigger or allows it to move via the position of the notch in the lower front of the lever relative to the rectangular peg on the trigger. Nothing is under much tension and should stay in place as you reassemble the covers.

0106191930_resized.jpg
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The little 'O' ring is supposed to go on the small peg as a retainer for the short leg of the spring but serves little purpose. The one in the pic was broken and doing nothing but sitting there and wasn't replaced when I put things back together. That spring isn't going anywhere without it.

0106191935_resized.jpg
​
The site is really running like crap again tonight so I hope this all loads like it should. Good luck with it.

​
 
PogoInTheWoods said:
All back together and happy..., and clean(er). I use a 1/16" punch for the pins. Punch them out from the top and tap back in from the bottom with a very small hammer. So far so good.

But I ended up with a spare screw that drove me nuts trying to figure out where it went. LOL Seriously, I actually forgot that's what I was replacing with the new knob. :dizzy:

Click to expand...

That's rather funny and we all do these silly things Haha. Nice saw poge that's really tasty I hope you use it when you can
 
My problem was that I didn't know how the spring hooked on.The IPL didn't show that either.The trigger mechanism was simple,I knew that part.The other thing that threw me was the O ring,I don't think there was one left in my saw.Since I don't need it,no worries.There's one slight problem though,I took the carb off thinking that it was attached to the two different halves.That might make it a bit more difficult for me to reattach everything,but I'll survive!
Thanks Pogo,much appreciated! BTW,everything came through just fine in spite of the site acting screwy again.
Ed
 

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