I started using hard felt from craft stores a few years ago In my estimation it's a hekl of a lot better than the original material. No dust in the box and free flowing.
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
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Ok what kind if glue holds up with the gas?
I used a regular hot glue gun from a hobby store, the hard felt was alittle too restrictive for the 10-10 though and went to the soft stuff , it could have been I bought the cheap felt and maybe that was the problem.
Ahh was it you I saw making a filter? Mine isn't to bad I'll fill in a couple little spots with hot glue if that's holding up ok for ya
So after reading all the posts on replacing the power lead for the spark plug on the McCulloch ignition I was thoroughly confused? When I read the posts In my mind I was picturing a tiny screw attached to the wire and a female receiver in the coil ? Haha silly me!
The wire is female and the coil has a threaded male post recessed in the bottom of the hole.
Used some accel hot rod copper wire that got swapped out of the 68' Plymouth, kept messing with the 8 track.
The wire is female and the coil has a threaded male post recessed in the bottom of the hole.
Used some accel hot rod copper wire that got swapped out of the 68' Plymouth, kept messing with the 8 track.
The glue stayed put but got alittle "grabby" on the lid and the soft felt just stays put on the screen ,but I'll probably sew the soft felt on and I probably could have done that with the hard , which would have avoided cleaning off the glue .
Does any make a standard size rim clutch drum for the 10 series macs?
There are both large and small splined drums available for the 10 Series saws. The 600 Series use the identical drum but were only offered with the small spline.
Mark
Mark
Do happen to know what part number the large is ? Thank you.
There are several I'm sure, two possibilities are McCulloch 86942 and Oregon 68211. I expect Windsor and Herr supplied them as well and that McCulloch and Oregon likely had multiple parts numbers over time.
Mark
Mark
Thank you , the Oregon part # is the one I'll look for , I ve been using there stuff with good results.
Just chuck any old 10 series or 600 series drum on it from a parts saw doesn't need to be new one if it's replaceable rim type.
I just pulled the clutch and drum off my new 2-10 and it's the fixed rim style so it's poked. What's interesting is it still has the yellow overspray on it so this saw has done bugger all work. It also has 3 broken fins on the flywheel so mite toss it for a 10-10 one.
Mark or another one of you yellow blood folks can you tell me if the original bars had any markings? The bar is kind of grey color like almost plated maybe and has no markings at all nothing. Here's a post from Randy years ago in the old adds and brochures thread it looks the same grey as these bars.
I've sealed up the tank today was weeping everywhere and the line too so used the Teflon trick for that and have found another leak from the primer Oring so will fix that tomorrow.
Mark I read the hell out of that handy dandy carb post of yours from Nov 4 2010 and think I've got this carb worked out I have 1 question though a couple days ago I had it running for a while and seemed perfect until I put the lid and cleaner on. It started kind of surging up n down up n down at full throttle hmmm ok so cleaned the filter it was full of gas n thought yeah it will be good now n nope same again. Next day not doing it is this a symptom you have run into if so what was it? Not doing it today either
Did some more work on the 790 tonight. What is this metal wire running over the top of coil? Attached at the top and looks to have some sort of spring clip at bottom.
That is an , governor. It works off the air from the rotating flywheel to limit the carburetor. There should be a lever in the air box also on the left side. If its not in there then it was removed. Lots of guys removed them. Ive got a 55 gear drive with one on it. They work but can be a pain to set right.
ML12
ArboristSite Guru
Agreed, its a governor. My 55 also has it, and its intact and set up. My 790, 795, 1-72, and S44A have all had the flags cut off by previous owners. If the seals are good, and the saw is tuned right, it doesn't really matter.
Cool, thanks for the info guys. I'll have to check tonight to see if it's still connected in the airbox.
How do I identify if I have a 358 rim/drum? Can anyone help? I've had to swap to an old fone and all the ipls I had are gone
can't save any to this dinosaur eather.
Out of curiosity I would like to know the bars origin also. No numbers in it al all and I've seen a couple saws on you tube with the same bar also on 1-10s and 2-10s
can't save any to this dinosaur eather.Out of curiosity I would like to know the bars origin also. No numbers in it al all and I've seen a couple saws on you tube with the same bar also on 1-10s and 2-10s
How do I identify if I have a 358 rim/drum? Can anyone help? I've had to swap to an old fone and all the ipls I had are gone
Out of curiosity I would like to know the bars origin also. No numbers in it al all and I've seen a couple saws on you tube with the same bar also on 1-10s and 2-10s View attachment 752876 View attachment 752877
Looks like a Sabre mount. Assuming it is, they were made in Canada in the '60's. Sabre made chain as well.
Maybe .354 instead of .358? Wrap some .325 and then some 3/8's around the sprocket and you should be able to determine if it's one of the three unless it's .404 -- which would probably be fairly obvious. I did a little searching through IPL's and the Chain, Sprocket, and Drum catalog and didn't find that part number. There's one on ebay but it doesn't include any specifics.
edit: Don't actually think .325 is very likely after looking some more.
My 2-10 came with .354.
.325 and 3/8 will roll roughly around those sprockets.
.325 and 3/8 will roll roughly around those sprockets.
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