The 645 would be the same as the Timberbear at 55cc,wouldn't it?
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
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605, 645 and Timberbear are the lesser displacement saws. Cylinder PN 95536
Is a Super 250 a significantly better saw than a 1-42? I’m trying to thin out my 80 cc Macs due to space issues and I’m undecided if I should keep my Super 250/1-43 frankensaw or my 1-42. The 1-42 has a removable head and the piston only has a few carbon scratches while Frankensaw has a roached piston but might be a Super 250. Frankensaw, in addition to the piston, also had the bottom recoil screw brackets rot partly off. Or, should I just keep them both and only sell off my 1-40 and 35?
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Yes, a super 250 has way more power than the 80cc or other 87cc saws, with the exception of the 660 being the same saw in a geardrive version. The super 250 is supposed to have much more agressive porting. I can tell you they will run a 36" bar as well a Stihl 066, they just weigh a ton more. Super 250's are keepers.
I got my 250 out today for the first time in almost a yr.I had to prime the carb as the primer didn't want to work at first,but after the primer got primed (does that make sense?) I used it to keep the saw going till it pulled fuel on it's own.Then it just sat there & purred away.
I also tried to get my 1-41 fired up for the first time ever too.I had spark on it last winter,but now it doesn't have any again.I don't understand how the saw can loose it's spark while sitting in my utility room since last Nov.No dampness there at all with wood heat all winter.Maybe the condenser failed?Bob J.has no more condensers for Macs.I do have a new condenser in my 1-50 that I can't get any spark on & also my old 380 parts saw has a new condenser.
I also tried to get my 1-41 fired up for the first time ever too.I had spark on it last winter,but now it doesn't have any again.I don't understand how the saw can loose it's spark while sitting in my utility room since last Nov.No dampness there at all with wood heat all winter.Maybe the condenser failed?Bob J.has no more condensers for Macs.I do have a new condenser in my 1-50 that I can't get any spark on & also my old 380 parts saw has a new condenser.
A mini mac variety condenser will work.
I replaced the coil and condenser (nos) on my 1-41 and filed the points twice and reset them still no spark!
I bought a new set of points and it fires on the 2 or 3rd pull. Sometimes I think points just are to far gone to file , I would clean them up on my Plymouth fury V8 but just replace them on my slant 6 vailant because of the PITA it was to set the gap down beside the block and fender well.
I took the points out & cleaned them up with emery cloth last fall/winter.I suppose it's possible they may have tarnished over since then.I might have a new set of points laying around here that'll fit the 1-41.Yup,just checked,the points for the 380 are the same as the 1-41,part # 50076A.The condenser is the same too,part # 50074.
In order to get a jump on firewood season (only six weeks until go time), the woodlot rented a wood processor which is supposed to handle up to 22" stems. I was asked to come help them feed it this morning so I arrived with just an axearoon and a small cant hook only to find that the processor doesn't tolerate crooks, forks or knobs and my assigned task was to remedy this. I was handed an off-brand saw. It was a real pretty OEMMS462 with a 25" bar. I ran a tank or more through it. I am sure it would handle bar length green hardwood with ease, but even though I was mostly cutting 20" or under wood it struggled in my heavy hands with the drier logs and would stall fairly easily. It also didn't handle very well the inevitable binding you encounter when bucking crooked sections. I was surprised as the MS462 is the replacement for the MS461 which in most conditions will give my 82cc MACs a run for their money. Maybe it just the old adage in play - there is no replacement for displacement (the 462 is 72.2cc vs. the 461 at 76.5cc vs. my MACs at 82cc). Whatever the reason, I really missed the grunt of a MAC today. BTW I am not dishing the 462, I thought overall it was a fine saw just a little out of its league with the type cutting I was doing today.
Ron
Ron
Your post has me somewhat wondering, if perhaps the older saws that ran at lower RPMs but had more torque still have an advantage in dry timber. And the newer higher-revving saws shine in live / green wood.
Well I think the style is just different, if you watch comparison videos of cutting cookies it pretty common to see someone just resting their hand on the top of the handle and letting the saw self feed ,which is correct. That technique shows how well you sharpen your chain and that the saw can pull the bar combination.
But in real world cutting you lock the spikes in and pivot on them then throw french fry sized chips out the back with the old saws. That speeds up the process a little. Even without dogs or spikes I've been told buy guys who grew up with older saws to start the cut and then" just lean foward on it" can you imagine doing that with a 14,000 rpm saw?
Hence Ron's "heavy hand".
I'll watch videos of guys running a PM700 and it looks just pitiful and I'm saying in my head "NOW STAND ON THAT S.O.B.! ,STOP BEING A PANTY WASTE!"
Couldn’t agree more. I’m ruined after using my Macs, then going back to using my dads Stihl. Lean on it a bit it stops. I kept thinking dang something is wrong with this thing - then it hit me - nope, somethings wrong with me lol
I know what you mean, you have to have a feel and an ear for putting the right amount of pressure to make a saw work without bogging it out. But the motor should be working!
I think it is mostly the operator. Followed by the chain. Followed by the hardness of the wood. No saw likes to be pinched, but not being the perfect operator I need the extra torque from time to time to power through. I also get impatience with the "hands off" pace in hard dry hardwood as it seems after a few cuts the chain dulls just enough that you just make dust without some down pressure.
In the fresh wood the off-brand saw was great - light and fast. But I am glad I skipped it to wait for its new big brother.
Ron
In the fresh wood the off-brand saw was great - light and fast. But I am glad I skipped it to wait for its new big brother.
Ron
That’s my biggest problem! I’m an impatient millennial hahaha
Does anyone know where to get condensers for Macs?Bob J.is fresh out.He contacted Phelon Co.& they pretty much laughed in his face.I've had dealings with Standard Magneto (so has Bob J.) & they pretty much sell junk.I only saw one condenser on eBay.I've got a couple of Mini Macs that I can canabalize the condenser out of,but after that I'll be fresh out.
I am approaching geezer status thus my interest in the new generation of lighter saws.
Ron
Ron
I truly understand keeping it original and being a purist. Some of you know where this is going, sorry in advance guys. Why not put a $12.00 nova chip in the saw and not worry about your points and condenser ever again. They are very reliable and easy to obtain. Yes you hear a story of a guy who had an issue with one and from that moment on they are all junk, would never buy one again, dont waste your money etc. Ive had one fail as well. They are not all perfect. But...for 12.00 and a bit of time in mounting and wiring youre not going to ever mess with points not working or needing cleaned and adjusted. Never have to wonder if its condenser and where to find one. If some company made a electronic coil and flywheel kit for these old macs or homelites or whatever, and it was a direct replacement....guys would buy them like crazy to not have points and condenser. Even mcculloch in the later years got away from them and advertised it as an "upgrade" " no more points and condenser". The 10-10s the 700, 850, 800, etc mostly all were electronic ignition. Even the little mini macs too. Im not trying to sell the things by no means. Im not trying to be negative on non elec saws. Im simply offering an alternative option to you. If i had a condenser id be happy to offer it. I hope you find one.
There are numerous options for replacing condensers on Mac points saws -- a MiniMac being the most convenient in most cases.
As for the "points or chip" debate, I say go with whatever solves your problem and gets your saw running to your satisfaction as quickly, economically, and reliably as possible unless preserving originality is desired.
I also recently said elsewhere that any real Mac guy (or gal) should have revived at least one dead points ignition Mac as a legitimate right of passage into the Mac community. And while basically meant to be tongue and cheek, there is something to be learned and appreciated about the true Mac heritage by reviving one of the old points saws -- not to mention being immensely gratifying and fulfilling. Same for any old saw, of course, but there's just something different about a Mac.
As for the "points or chip" debate, I say go with whatever solves your problem and gets your saw running to your satisfaction as quickly, economically, and reliably as possible unless preserving originality is desired.
I also recently said elsewhere that any real Mac guy (or gal) should have revived at least one dead points ignition Mac as a legitimate right of passage into the Mac community. And while basically meant to be tongue and cheek, there is something to be learned and appreciated about the true Mac heritage by reviving one of the old points saws -- not to mention being immensely gratifying and fulfilling. Same for any old saw, of course, but there's just something different about a Mac.
I've had to earn that merit badge a few times... I don't think I'll EVER forget the flywheel - coil or points air gap specs for a McCulloch as long as I live, haha.
you need points file.
emery or sandpaper is iffy at best. grit can be left in points, preventing contact.
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