McCulloch Chain Saws

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Well I got the 10-10A finished today.I had a heck of a time getting it started.I'll never figure out why Mac never put a throttle lock on the older 10-10s.It seems that most of the time I can only start the saw by holding the throttle trigger while pulling on it,then it fires right up.I had a helluva time tuning that little bugger too.As soon as I'd put the air filter on it would die.The filter seems to be quite clean.The previous owner had a hardnose bar on it with an Oregon 73 chain.The bar was pretty much shot,so I found a nice Windsor bar & a 72 chain to go on it.I forgot to take pics,but I hope to have them tomorrow.
 
Well I got the 10-10A finished today.I had a heck of a time getting it started.I'll never figure out why Mac never put a throttle lock on the older 10-10s.It seems that most of the time I can only start the saw by holding the throttle trigger while pulling on it,then it fires right up.I had a helluva time tuning that little bugger too.As soon as I'd put the air filter on it would die.The filter seems to be quite clean.The previous owner had a hardnose bar on it with an Oregon 73 chain.The bar was pretty much shot,so I found a nice Windsor bar & a 72 chain to go on it.I forgot to take pics,but I hope to have them tomorrow.

Usually when the throttle lock isn't there the cast boss is still in the handle.(sometimes) .
I've drilled 1 out and tapped it for the spring loaded throttle lock . If your saw has the casting I've got an extra button.
Pictures of the handle would help.
 
I am trying to keep a few saws available for sale in the new building, had a drop in customer a week ago Saturday (12 Sep) looking for a small saw so I sold him an Eager Beaver 2014. This is one of the 32/35/38 cc models engineered by McCulloch in Tucson and assembled in Hermosillo, MX. These are generally reliable little saws and easy to work on, the weak spot is the oil tank where strong arm users overtighten the cap to minimize leakage and strip the threads on the neck of the tank. Replacing the gasket is the correct solution.

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I guess in the future I should try to figure out what the problem is b Did I learn my lesson? We'll see.

Mark

I have 2 of these type Macs now to work on, both 38cc, I appreciate the detailed writeup as I'm sure I'll be going through this! One of them seems complete and in decent shape except for the broken recoil pawls on the flywheel. Ill either steal them from the well-worn and beat up 3818 or try to track some down. The bar looks like that because it's just propped up. It says "35cc!" On the clutch cover...but the little EPA sticker says 38cc engine.

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Usually when the throttle lock isn't there the cast boss is still in the handle.(sometimes) .
I've drilled 1 out and tapped it for the spring loaded throttle lock . If your saw has the casting I've got an extra button.
Pictures of the handle would help.
I'll take a look.I have extra buttons w/springs too.Thanks!
 
I wouldn't even want to know how much I've paid for parts to fix Mini Macs and my SP 40...probably twice what they're even worth.

This.
A.K.A When you buy a saw for parts, and then end up buying actual parts to fix up your "parts saw".
Plus the parts that you originally needed from the parts saw. :nofunny:

Or the old "I'd be losing money if I didn't buy/fix that saw" theory.

Speaking of that... ladybug just dropped a truckload of them on evilbay. Priced a little high, but not nearly as badly as the one up there for $3k. :dizzy:
 
I would really love to know where Ladybug is coming up with all of these saws.
I am totally guilty of trying to make them all run. Currently resisting the urge with the pile of front tank saws sitting on my garage floor right now. I am determined that 2 of them will be parts machines and I will end up with 4 runners. Already did the super 250 and the 1-40. Have the 1-51 and 450 to go. That leaves a 1-52 and a 250 as parts saws. Already robbed parts from the 1-52 and it will be donating its carb and associated linkages to the 450.

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This.
A.K.A When you buy a saw for parts, and then end up buying actual parts to fix up your "parts saw".
Plus the parts that you originally needed from the parts saw. :nofunny:

Or the old "I'd be losing money if I didn't buy/fix that saw" theory.


:laughing: I plead the fifth.....I've often said its probably a good thing I'm not married,cause she'd have left me azz a long while ago....
 
The only Mac "parts saw" (excluding minimacs) that I've ever gotten was a 10-10 that was seized,or so I thought.I went to turn off the nut for the clutch & the dang thing broke loose.The piston & cylinder were so dry that it squeaked.I shot some WD40 in it & it quieted a bit.but the bearings were dry as a bone.Lol No saving that saw.
 
:laughing: I plead the fifth.....I've often said its probably a good thing I'm not married,cause she'd have left me azz a long while ago....
And then there are those lucky guys whose wives support their husbands' hobby of collecting & working on saws.Those wives are few & far in between.
 
Usually when the throttle lock isn't there the cast boss is still in the handle.(sometimes) .
I've drilled 1 out and tapped it for the spring loaded throttle lock . If your saw has the casting I've got an extra button.
Pictures of the handle would help.
I looked at the handle & it has the hole in it for a throttle lock.What size should I tap it,1/4-20?
 
I took the Super 250 out and made a couple test cuts with it tonight now that it has a decent bar and chain on it. All I can say is now I see why this model is so.higjly regarded!!!

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