McCulloch Chain Saws

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I went to a snowmobile swap this last Sunday and came home with a 10-10A 600002G #15-17827. This saw has a chain brake on it and none of the pictures I could find on a short search show the chain brake. Did someone add this too it or is the brake correct? This one has been run but has good compression and should clean up real nice.

Here's an IPL for that 10-10 model and it shows a brake.
 

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  • McCulloch-Gas-Chain-Saws-Parts-Manuals-15-600002G-MAC-10-10A-12-70-to-05-72-IPL-92374.pdf
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Last year i replaced s piston in a guys cp125. It was quite the chore to get that wrist pin out. I do remember using a dremel also.....i cut the piston skirt with it then pressed it out. It was shot anyway, so why not. I looked at that thing for a long time trying to figure out how to get that thing out. Bob j told me about the tool for it. Then he said are you keeping the piston? I said no, so then it got cut. Worked just fine. Hes a silly guy. Funny how a different set of eyes usually can see things.
 
I have encountered another obstacle on the CP125 project, the three holes for the muffler are tapped and the holes are pretty large, but they don't fit any fastener I can find. A 5/16" or 8 mm screw just drops right in, but a 3/8" screw is too large. I even tried the HeliCoil tap for 5/16" and 8 mm inserts and they are just too large to fit. Has anyone else encountered this situation or have any advice to offer. I am concerned that if I try to tap them to fit a 3/8" fastener (I have some 10-24 inserts with 3/8-16 threads) the O.D. will impinge on the recess for the muffler gasket.

Ideas?

Mark
 
I have a Homelite XP1000 that is suffering from the same issue. I plan to cut an insert with a slight interference fit, screw it in and the drill and tap the correct thread in it. It is someplace on my to do list. Hardest part is knowing the correct diameter and pitch of the insert.
 
I know that McCulloch used some 6.6 mm fasteners on the 600 Series saws, almost but not quite the same as 1/4-28...but I don't think they were so adventuress the the early days. The IPL calls for 10-24 screws in the muffler, I believe these big old saws came with inserts from the factory, I just can't figure out what size they could be.

Mark
 
I know that McCulloch used some 6.6 mm fasteners on the 600 Series saws, almost but not quite the same as 1/4-28...but I don't think they were so adventuress the the early days. The IPL calls for 10-24 screws in the muffler, I believe these big old saws came with inserts from the factory, I just can't figure out what size they could be.

Mark
Pretty much all of the blocks from that era have the inserts and I just had two blocks where the inserts had drifted out, unfortunately I've already re-installed the inserts with sleeve retainer. I can tell just by eyeballing though that a 5/16-24 tap is too small for that pocket.

What you could do Mark is go ahead and install your oversized 10-24 inserts and then trim one side with a Dremel to re-establish the recess for the exhaust gasket. It's not going to hurt the inserts by having a little material trimmed off the upper edge of one side.

Hmm, @rupedoggy had some special 797? 125? Mac muffler bolts a long time back, maybe he or @Jacob J. could chime in on whether it was the threads or the bolts that were so special.

The 797 pretty much uses the same set-up that Mark has with his CP-125 block. The SP-125 uses a special muffler bolt but it is coarse thread and won't fit Mark's muffler.
 
I better send Mr. Woods a replacement bracket. We can't have a guy felling timber with his lid duct-taped on.
What's wrong with duct tape? Also, what makes you think timber fallers haven't all flipped their lids long ago and now duct tape is the only thing keeping them from blowing their lids?
 
Welcome Job, I still have a T shirt from my visit to Cebu years ago...

I have been successful on several saws installing a different cylinder/upper crankcase on the oil tank/lower crankcase. In your case you must reuse the oil tank/lower crankcase half to accommodate the gear drive. My advice would be to check the fit of the two halves very carefully and be sure to use a good sealer (Dirko HT, Threebond 1184, etc.) to make sure the crankcase will hold pressure and vacuum. I cannot think of any reason the 2-10 cylinder would not work. Do check to see if the 2-10 had the DSP valve, in which case you would need to plug for the compression release port since the SLG-2 does not have the mechanism to operate the DSP valve.

I have a 2-10G saw that does not get much use but it does run and cut well.

View attachment 908677

Could it really have been almost 10 years since that project?

Mark
I was wondering if I can put a G-70 or 70cc bore cylinder kit for my SLG-2 to increase power output instead of a 10 series cylinder kit? Have you tried doing it?
 
Hey guys I’m new here...I just acquired a old sp81e. I have no spark, my groundstrap is fine and so is my kill switch. I’m not really familiar with these old McCulloughs. Was wondering if anyone could point in in the right direction or has any idea. It’s the two module system the magneto by the flywheel and the second module underneath the flywheel.
 
newman - your best option is to get one of the more modern one piece electronic ignition coils from another 10 Series saw, or from the 600 Series and cut the plug lead down to the correct length. There was a trigger unit for sale on eBay now but you wouldn't like the price - I don't see it listed anymore.

Your current set up

DSC01962.JPG

The one piece ignition

DSC01959.JPG

job - you can make the switch to the 70 cc cylinder but the insulator between the airbox and cylinder must change.

Mark
 
I finally quit procrastinating and made up a chain for the 24 inch bar I got from @ZachAK a year or so ago. I think it looks pretty good on my 1-42, all I need to do now is test run the 1-42 and it should be a runner! Due to the stack muffler that'll have to wait until it isn't so late at night....
IMG_6865.jpegIMG_6866.jpeg
 
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