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Check the link I posted to learn about the vent issue. It'll resolve to the correct post.

And depending on which version of cork gasket is used, it may need doubled up to not leak. I've found that to occasionally be the case in some situations with gaskets from ebay seller Gotfishon. They're good gaskets, don't get me wrong. Some situations just require a pair for a reliable seal.
 
heimannm said:
Been a busy week...too many posts have gone by to try and answer them all...but I'll touch on a couple I remember...

Gumneck _ I have some NOS fuel lines for those top tank saws, both the tank to carb and the one in the tank. Contact me it you are interested.

Xp - I have most of the brake parts for the 10 Series models, let me know specifically what you might be looking for.

If the LRB pistons have bearings (the 600 Series I recently acquired did come with bearings) make sure they are brand name, (INA, Koyo, Torrington, ect.) and you'll be O.K. When you press them in you should have a mandrel that fits the I.D. very precisely, otherwise you risk crushing the cup slightly causing the bearing to twist and no longer run true. Here's one I made for the PTO side bearing into the insert on the 70 cc ++ saws. The bearing is in the insert, the O.D. of the mandrel fits the I.D. of the bearing very precisely to hold its shape as the bearing is pressed in. Also keep in mind that the needles are loose in those bearings and will fall out if you are not extremely careful when handling them. Washing the bearings with solvent will almost certainly clean out any oil that is sticking the needles in place and they will come out. It is possible to put them back in place using a little grease to hold them, but it is a tedious job.

View attachment 960383

Regarding the 3200, 3214, FR2.0 etc. saws. These are the last of the McCulloch saws engineered and built when McCulloch was employee owned in Arizona and assembled in Mexico. They are not bad little saws but remember that they are only 32, 35, or 38 cc depending on the model. The oil tank can be problematic, if the cap is leaking most folks overtighten it rather than replacing the gasket and putt the threads out of the cap. Most of the time they will need to have the fuel lines and oil lines replaced but they are not bad to work on and will cut a bit of wood when you're done. I think they are more comfortable than a Mini Mac to operate with the handle layout but of course they don't work like a top handle saw. I can sell a good running, clean saw that has had the fuel & oil lines replaced for $100 with a clear conscience. I would not buy one that needed work for that much. If you need to cut stuff over 8-10" in diameter all day long look for a bigger saw.

Mark
Click to expand...
I believe you where referring to me about the brake parts I have an 850 cover with absolutely nothing in it for brake parts. I could reproduce some of them at work. I was thinking about taking apart the cover from my 700 for examples to duplicate. I will need a handle and springs, band, and cam plate. So far that's all I know.

The bearing mandrel, I could turn these down at work also out of cold or hot roll steel, but I would need your dimensions. I don't have a free bearing or connecting rod to measure.
My thought was to make a few set to send out to those who may need them.
 
Xpropane said:
My thought was to make a few set to send out to those who may need them.
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Now that's a helluva nice gesture right there. My thought is to rustle through my stash to see what brake parts I may be able to come up with for you.
 
labans said:
Thanks for all the great responses from everyone.
I'm passing on this unit, but still looking for that small saw to do the limb work.
I would like to find something in the 8-9lb range; that Mac 3200 weighs in at 13lbs without a bar.
Any suggestions on what to look for? How about the new Stihl?
Click to expand...
Try and find a Power Mac 6 you’ll be pleasantly surprised ! 👍
 
Soaked my 700 overnight with a 50/50 mix sea foam to fuel after running for 5 minutes. Filled back up today with VP 40:1 and let it idle for awhile then opened it up, tuned carb and wow I thought it was powerful before its like a whole new animal now. Pulled the 28” bar buried like it wasn’t there. Awesome!

However…when I shut saw off and stood it vertically to lean on it for a second, I noticed bar oil pouring out of the top of the reservoir from farther in past the gasket. Why would it be doing that from the top? Befire taking it apart I wanted to ask what this most likely is and how to address. Is there a gasket or something on top of the oil reservoir? Screw or bolt back under there between the oil reservoir and gas tank? Thought zi had the thing in tip top shape and all issues like that addressed but I guess not. Thanks in advance!
 
heimannm said:
Very likely the screw that mounts the fuel tank to the oil tank fell out. Take the cover off the oil tank and look inside.

Mark
Click to expand...
Sure enough that’s what it is. Screw is not in there either. Is this something standard I can go get at a hardware store or Mcculloch specific part?

Also had a black plastic disk fall out with a little nub on it that I have no idea what is for. Also seemed weird there’s no seal or gasket for the long reservoir bolt.
image.jpg
 
The disk could be from the filler cap if it's not the screen from the pickup tube. The cover bolt washer is all that's usually necessary to seal the opening for the cover bolt. The hardware for the tank is a 10-24x7/8 bolt with a #10 washer.

I posted this IPL for you the other day. Evidently you missed it.
 

Attachments

  • Pro Mac 700 April 87.pdf
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PogoInTheWoods said:
The disk could be from the filler cap if it's not the screen from the pickup tube. The cover bolt washer is all that's usually necessary to seal the opening for the cover bolt. The hardware for the tank is a 10-24x7/8 bolt with a #10 washer.

I posted this IPL for you the other day. Evidently you missed it.
Click to expand...
Thank you! Evidently can’t open it on an iPad though? Just garbled symbols when I try to open the pdf
 
Is the plate behind oil pump in a 10-10 supposed to be bent or straight also if it is supposed to be bent which direction does it go back in. Bend towards back or front.
 

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Jeffrey F. said:
Is the plate behind oil pump in a 10-10 supposed to be bent or straight also if it is supposed to be bent which direction does it go back in. Bend towards back or front.
Click to expand...
Yes they are bent. Its spring steel. Tits up on the oil pump holes and bow is back towards the engine.
 
They start out flat. Being forced into a bent position to create the spring tension to better secure the one screw oil pumps is the desired result. Once they are bent, they can lose their effectiveness to a significant extent.

Untitled.jpg​
 

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