these are a clam shell saw
Get some gasket paper,hole punch and a small sharp knife.
I got a Fiskers finger knife from a sewing shop that works great for free handing gaskets
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
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Get some gasket paper,hole punch and a small sharp knife.
I got a Fiskers finger knife from a sewing shop that works great for free handing gaskets
FreakinCoolUsername
ArboristSite Member
matt_lamb_160
ArboristSite Operative
Picture of it on your Pro Mac?
FreakinCoolUsername
ArboristSite Member
The saw is in pieces for a full rebuild, when i said "works really well" i should have said fits really well as i actaully haven't tested it yet.
I'm just wondering if selling the CAD file for those of us very far away to print off ourselves could be an option? (But that's your intellectual property and you then have no control over how many are printed...)
Although I may need other parts from the US in which case I would get them all sent to our postal service's freight forwarding depot in Seattle and combine it all...
Xpropane
ArboristSite Operative
I think I would like 1 yellow for the pro 700, and 2 black for 10-10s do we need to pm for the $ exchange and shipping? I believe almost everyone on here has probably bought something from you at one point.
XP - PM sent
Mark
Mark
FreakinCoolUsername
ArboristSite Member
I need to rebuild the Carb on my PM 60 but after looking at the side im not sure how to clean th high and low. My side cover does not have any holes for adjustments ether so after its on the saw i can't see how i would mess with it. Am i missing something because this carb has me baffled.
You are correct that none of the gaskets will change the squish unless someone swapped in a removable head motor, but a Super 797 is not a clam shell design nor is it a removeable cylinder design. The crank is inserted and removed from the side of the block.
Ron
newbomb
ArboristSite Lurker
Sorry to double-post , but I was referred here. PM805 crankcase damage when connecting rod broke.
- Sounds like finding a new cc is a needle in a haystack.
- Any comments on if this could be welded/fixed?
The cylinder wall is OK, but would need a new piston and connecting rod. That is all. Don't want to part-it-out b/c I have another 805 and may need the spare parts.
- Sounds like finding a new cc is a needle in a haystack.
- Any comments on if this could be welded/fixed?
The cylinder wall is OK, but would need a new piston and connecting rod. That is all. Don't want to part-it-out b/c I have another 805 and may need the spare parts.
Attachments
@srcarr52 does custom welding/repairs to old saws, I'd send him a pm and see what he says.
Thats a fixed jet carb , which means you don't get to monkey with the high speed jet. Rebuild it to spec and its best to use a tachometer to see the upper RPM limit to verify specs. It should burble out of the cut and clean up in the cut.
Are original dust guards hard to find? I prefer original parts where possible but if that design was too fragile I guess I could make an exception for a newer design.
Well im not able to upload videos of the sleeve. Too large of files. But i spent the last 2 evenings putting the engine back together. Tonight i finished it up and added fuel. I am very happy to say that the saw fired right up and idled just fine. Thats the second cylinder that ran fine. It has great compression, idles, oils normal etc. If you didnt know youd never guess that this saw had a iron liner in there. Ill be testing it another day. Im gonna "break" this one in slow and steady rather than running it hard. Ive got 2 more cylinders to get done. Ill have 3 extra sleeved cylinders to hoard. Such a great project. I hope he can help anyone and everyone else if they are interested. Please by all means if you are let me know and ill be happy to get you in touch with the guy. So exciting. Ill post some photos here.
Not in any order...the cylinder after it was bored out to size.
In the vice for final honing to fit the piston diameter.
The sleeve installed and before the exhaust is cut out.
The sleeve in the lathe for roughing the ID.
The sleeve set for cutting out transfers.
Heating the cylinder before pressing it in place.
Pressing the sleeve in place.
Once its been pressed in, then the intake and exhaust are cut out once set up in the next jig. Then the compression is drilled out. Last step is to drill 2 small holes and tap them for 2 set screws to assure the sleeve stays put. The set screws are not tapped clear through so they cannot work into the cylinder. They are threadlocked to stay put. If they were to loosen they can only fall out. Not in.
Expensive and hard to find.
While Mark was working on his design, I was working on mine. I gave my only remaining NOS one to the fellow doing the work - he lost it. I have two of Mark's originals. They are very robust. The later NOS parts seem to be really flimsy. Kind of sad given they probably cost pennies to produce. One twice as strong would have probably added less than two cents to the cost.
The old 3-piece ones seem strong though I don't know how they actually held up in the field. I bought several of them when I was experimenting.
Ron
They are difficult to find.
Excellent, Vinny. You should set up a YouTube channel for for vids. Super simple. If you have a Gmail account, you basically already have a YouTube channel.
So are you integrating the Mac spec taper into the sleeve also? Seems like that aspect would be a bit complicated. I'm also curious about how the transfers are cut into the sleeve..., or how the transfers are transferred to do the cutting.
So are you integrating the Mac spec taper into the sleeve also? Seems like that aspect would be a bit complicated. I'm also curious about how the transfers are cut into the sleeve..., or how the transfers are transferred to do the cutting.
Xpropane
ArboristSite Operative
I play a manual machinist on tv, and I think that is excellent work. I wondered how you guys would keep the tranfers located Precisely. Good work.
I seriously doubt that the set screws will walk out with lock tight. Consider this (maybe the next one) if the set screw are reseeded in the head you could leave the Allen wrench in the set screw, and fill the remaining threads with loctite and let cure. Not that you would ever have to, but to get the set screw out use a botteming tap the clean out the threads.
My 2 cents for extra piece of mind.
Eric R.
I seriously doubt that the set screws will walk out with lock tight. Consider this (maybe the next one) if the set screw are reseeded in the head you could leave the Allen wrench in the set screw, and fill the remaining threads with loctite and let cure. Not that you would ever have to, but to get the set screw out use a botteming tap the clean out the threads.
My 2 cents for extra piece of mind.
Eric R.
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