McCulloch Chain Saws

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Howdy folks,

I picked up a McCulloch Pro 10-10 Automatic on the cheap, and I have been using it to help my buddy clean up his property. This old saw still gets work done! I did some very basic maintenance when I saw how available parts are: New air filter, fuel line, spark plug, cheapo 20" bar and chain, & chain guides. I used to help cut firewood and have worked landscaping where I ran a variety of saws. This is the first chainsaw I have owned, and I do not have any experience with older saws.

I had a few questions:

- Advice on adjusting the oiler? I am going through 2 or 3 oil fills per gas tank.
- Any recommendations on chain tension? I have been struggling to find where this saw is happy. (Problem is probably my cheapo bar)
- This saw is still running on points and condenser. It starts pretty good, but should I throw a chip in there?
- I have not opened the carb, but I think it might be due for some new internals. Right now it cuts best in the middle of the power range. Is that typical? Should I expect more chain speed? I am having a hard time adjusting the carb to a happy cutting speed.
- Any tricks for making the handle wider? Cheap bar wrap? Maybe like a 1" heater hose? My hand cramps, but I usually need a break by then anyway.

I know this is not going to be as "user friendly" as my buddy's new Stihl, but I certainly can't hear him when it's running. I would love to hear your 10-10 stories.

Thanks for the help!

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Your 10-10 automatic is a good saw. Welcome to AS. Glad to see a nice saw. Oiler is adjustable as said. It is inside the oil tank. You must remove the front cover. Its held on with 1 screw. Take it off gently so as not to tear the gasket and it can be reused. Once its off. Youll be staring at the oil pump. There will be a small screw held in place by a locknut. It will almost be touching the case. Loosen the lock nut and turn the screw inwards. What the screw does is limit the movement of the plunger in the pump. Turning it inwards will make the stroke shorter. It operates from the engine impulse of the cylinder going up and down as it runs. Turn it in a few turns, retighten the locknut, put it all back together, add oil and test it. If its still too much then repeat until you get it where you like it. Its messy and a bit of effort but once its right you wont have to mess with it ever again.

The carb likely needs rebuilt. Kits are cheap and available. Find the carb make and get a kit. Walbro sdc carbs use a walbro k-10 kit. Once you get the kit take the carb off and one side ata time replace gaskets and diaphragms in the same order they come out. Adjust the high and low ,if it has both, 1 turn open from seat and go from there. If its 1 jet at an angle then set that at 1 turn out. Its the low jet needle mix. The high side is fixed on that carb. If its got both the botb start at 1 turn out from seat. If that doesnt run better then id go after the points. With it running id bet the points are ok. Try a new spark plug also. Id do all that before id chip the ignition.

I hope that gets you started. Sorry its long winded. Good luck and let us know your progress.
 
Hol
So we made a run to Bob Johnson’s to retrieve a few things we didn’t have room for on the main move out. Heading home with more yellow goodness! That’s all of it now.View attachment 1025978
Hold on a minute. I think I need a nitro pill!!!!!!🤪🤪🤪🤪
 
I am gonna say you should dress the bar as is debur and knock the rails down flat.
And a word of warning, the edge of the rail can cut you very easily while drawing back with that tool.
I knew about deburring first and there is a small wire edge all around but I didn't think about slicing my hand open. thanks for the heads up.
 

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