Way better than I could do!
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
- Start date
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I know I shouldn't but you guys are the ones I hang out with soooo...
I'll get out the 81 and 800 later but wow. I'm in love
Holy crap
I'll get out the 81 and 800 later but wow. I'm in love
Holy crap
today I finally received the last item I need to put the 10-10S back together. the carb was so dirty I decided to remove the 2 welch plugs to clean out those passages and when I did, I realized the little check valve disc was completely missing. had to order the Walbro check valve kit last minute. I suspect it was eaten alive over time by ethanol used by the PO. I don't run ethanol in anything but my truck. anyway, my question tonight. the service manual calls for putting a fuel resistant sealant on the carb gaskets and spacer. I looked at the TDS for Permatex Motoseal1 and it says it is resistant to gasoline. I happen to have a tube of that. nuff said or is that going to cause a problem?
btw, for reference, the reason this carb was so dirty is that it was run by the PO with no airbox seals, no rubber seal around the high and low speed carb adjusting screws and a rotted-out rubber seal around the throttle rod that connects to the trigger. this lets a lot of sawdust and potentially dirt in under the air filter. I know most of you guys on this forum know this but maybe it will help a newb like me when they find this thread.
btw, for reference, the reason this carb was so dirty is that it was run by the PO with no airbox seals, no rubber seal around the high and low speed carb adjusting screws and a rotted-out rubber seal around the throttle rod that connects to the trigger. this lets a lot of sawdust and potentially dirt in under the air filter. I know most of you guys on this forum know this but maybe it will help a newb like me when they find this thread.
I put no sealant on any of the carburetor Gaskets, nor do I use it on the welch plugs as I set them down hard enough to deform them.
I second that notion, no sealant on the gaskets or diaphragms except if I need stick a gasket to the carburetor or insulator to hold it in place during assembly. Lately I've been using Pliobond because I have it on hand. Unfortunately the new, low VOC formula doesn't have that wonderful solvent smell that I remember from my younger days.
Mark
Mark
I can smell it now.
Poodle_Bruce
ArboristSite Lurker
Should I expect that a 10-10 airbox be dry? It should probably not have a layer of gas surrounding the carb?
Leaky tank seal?
Leaky tank seal?
Poodle_Bruce
ArboristSite Lurker
Thanks Vinny. Great explanation. It is much messier when you don't think to drain the oil out of the saw! I got there eventually after spilling bar oil all over myself.
Ordered, and hopefully in the post box soon.
I usually don't either and didn't on the SP70. I was going thru the manual this pm and that's what it said. think I will just leave them dry.
thanks guys.
Depends how much. A little I kinda live with but a ever bigger puddle is not good. Infact I had 1 set on fire. I tell ya water doesn't help much with fire lol. It could be the line leaking or the tank seal or both
I played a bit with my new bar rail tightener thingy this afternoon. didn't want to go too far until I get the new chain but with some fiddling and a few pulls it did tighten up some per my feeler gauges.
speaking of the new chain. the old chain that came with this 28" bar is 3/8, .050 with 88 drive links. googling around last night and this morning, I could not find a 3/8, .058, 88 drive link chain except for a Raisman brand (chinese?) and an Archer (also chinese)? is an 88 link, 3/8, .058 chain an oddball?
speaking of the new chain. the old chain that came with this 28" bar is 3/8, .050 with 88 drive links. googling around last night and this morning, I could not find a 3/8, .058, 88 drive link chain except for a Raisman brand (chinese?) and an Archer (also chinese)? is an 88 link, 3/8, .058 chain an oddball?
Poodle_Bruce
ArboristSite Lurker
That sounds exciting! How did that end up?
These old saws are pretty addictive to fix up. I think I am understanding why a feller might collect a few.
Burnt hairs dirty undies. Got it out and saved it no damage but man what a thrill lol.
I have a 7-10 with slightly melted oiler n choke nobs also the cap shows signs of it being on fire in a previous life.
Yes very addictive. Came here 4 years ago with 2 saws. Now have I dunno a few lol. Lost count at 40 odd
800 finally eating some big wood again
Uh oh.... I think you CAD and yellow fever!!!
Sorry there is no cure. You can only find temporary relief with another saw now and again.
j-jock
ArboristSite Operative
For my old lawn mowers and on one of my old Macs, I have used the insulator foam that is used on domestic hot water pipes, . It is inexpensive, you can find it at almost any hardware store, and stands up quite well with a wrap of electrical tape. I never thought of using heat shrink, and it definitely looks nice that way. .
j-jock
ArboristSite Operative
A friend of mine had a bar rebuilding business, and I benefited from him having a bar re-sizer (hammer) and the proper grinding wheels for the different gauges. After he quit the business, I knew enough about sizing my own bars, that I just use a hammer, with the bar lying on a piece of I beam. I have a couple of thin cutoff wheels to dress out areas on the bars that end up a little tight. With patience, that does not happen very often.
Like other posters have stated, I have several different gauges of chain, so I am not worried about mixing and matching.
I should also add, that the system he purchased for hammering the bars was quite aggressive. He had to be quick, or the bar got damaged. I got a few dead bars from him, where he had hammered the channels enough that they fatigue cracked at the base of the channel. The technique he used, was to drill out the tip, true up the top of both sides of the bar, hammer, and finally grind out the channel to the proper gauge.
(Because of the high quality of the steel, I used the scrap bar steel for other metal working projects).
I plead the fifth.
Yes it should be dry. either your Tank seal, or fuel line is leaking where it comes through tank. Honestly I would put a new tank seal and fuel line both in it and use seal all to seal it up on reassembly. Easy fix.
Max
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