McCulloch Chain Saws

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Nice saw, Lee !

I was digging through a dealer manual yesterday and found that Mc Culloch even recommended a saw shop lay out (one or two man)....

Mark Heimann comes close, I reckon...LOL.

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Fear is a learned response,and a distraction that causes a lose of situational awareness, thus puts a person in danger. Pretty much if you fear it leave it alone.

A little fear or, more accurately, respect is a good thing. Chainsaws are like firearms in that if your butthole doesn't pucker up a little bit everytime you use one, you probably shouldn't be using it.:greenchainsaw:
 
A little fear or, more accurately, respect is a good thing. Chainsaws are like firearms in that if your butthole doesn't pucker up a little bit everytime you use one, you probably shouldn't be using it.:greenchainsaw:

I have to agree: when you use a chainsaw or a firearm there are several bad things that can happen to you, others, or property. However, I don't believe in gun control or chainsaw control by the government. A little education is nice though.
 
Nice saw, Lee !

I was digging through a dealer manual yesterday and found that Mc Culloch even recommended a saw shop lay out (one or two man)....

Mark Heimann comes close, I reckon...LOL.

attachment.php

If it weren't for embarrassing myself I'd send you a photo of my workshop, I fear that some of you weaker ones might have a heart attack from laughing if I did!
 
Devil Beaver 2.0 Coil ?

I finally have a NOS coil for my Devil Beaver 2.0. It looks like two of the sheet metal layers are bent a bit (see bottom left corner). Will this matter? The deformation is all below the "arc" where the flywheel sits so it won't interfere that way.

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On the plug end it looks like I have to assemble it myself to the correct length. After seeing this, I wonder if that is the "no spark" problem on the current one? If that pin on the coil isn't dead nuts on the center of the wire when pressed into the sheith or if it breaks off or something continuity is gone. Are all plug ends assembled like this?

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Nice saw, Lee !

I was digging through a dealer manual yesterday and found that Mc Culloch even recommended a saw shop lay out (one or two man)....

Mark Heimann comes close, I reckon...LOL.

attachment.php

Are those measurements in centimeters?

That scale would have to be (1 unit = 1 foot) for both Roland's & Mark's shops. :popcorn::greenchainsaw:
 
Brian, those laminations look like they were intentionally staked over to hold them in place inside the coil.

You might try cutting off the very end of the old plug wire & re-installing the terminal end to see if that was the culprit.
 
I finally have a NOS coil for my Devil Beaver 2.0. It looks like two of the sheet metal layers are bent a bit (see bottom left corner). Will this matter? The deformation is all below the "arc" where the flywheel sits so it won't interfere that way.

attachment.php


On the plug end it looks like I have to assemble it myself to the correct length. After seeing this, I wonder if that is the "no spark" problem on the current one? If that pin on the coil isn't dead nuts on the center of the wire when pressed into the sheith or if it breaks off or something continuity is gone. Are all plug ends assembled like this?

attachment.php
Are all plug ends assembled like this
Most are
 
Devil Beaver Coil

This may me multi-meter 101 but I am confused. The instructions with the coil say to put the plug on and then check to make sure the resistance is less than 3000 ohms between the metal plug connector and the laminated stack. So for giggles I just touched between the expose wire and the laminated stack and I get no reading on the 1x ohms setting, also no "beep" on the audible continuity check. There is an "ohms adjust" wheel on the multi meter which I zeroed by touching the probe ends together before starting. The old coil also registers nothing after ripping the plug connection off so I could touch straight on the wire itself. Am I using my multi-meter wrong? :dizzy:
 
Devil Beaver Coil Update

If I measure resistance between the wire with the metal loop and the spade next to it I am getting about 200 ohms on the old coil and only 20 on the new one.

Resistance between either of these two points and the plug end of the plug wire gives about 2200 ohms for both the old and the new (4 total measurments).

So there is a difference but I don't know if that is a good thing or not.

Any experience on this out there? Here is a photo of the wire with loop and spade side of the coil.

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I finally have a NOS coil for my Devil Beaver 2.0. It looks like two of the sheet metal layers are bent a bit (see bottom left corner). Will this matter? The deformation is all below the "arc" where the flywheel sits so it won't interfere that way.

attachment.php


On the plug end it looks like I have to assemble it myself to the correct length. After seeing this, I wonder if that is the "no spark" problem on the current one? If that pin on the coil isn't dead nuts on the center of the wire when pressed into the sheith or if it breaks off or something continuity is gone. Are all plug ends assembled like this?

attachment.php

That's the way my 700 Mac looks. I wouldn't worry too much about the spark not getting to the plug; it'll jump quite a way. I doubt if the laminate separation on the coil end will hurt the running of it, at least it's worth a try. If it would make you feel better you could go to your automotive store and get a spark plug wire end and put it on in place of the wound one. You can try it without putting the engine back in the case, just give the flywheel a spin with the spark plug out and see if it sparks. And No, all spark plug wires are not made that way. I guess you could straighten out that L shaped piece and stick it into the center of the plug wire to make better connection.
 
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This may me multi-meter 101 but I am confused. The instructions with the coil say to put the plug on and then check to make sure the resistance is less than 3000 ohms between the metal plug connector and the laminated stack. So for giggles I just touched between the expose wire and the laminated stack and I get no reading on the 1x ohms setting, also no "beep" on the audible continuity check. There is an "ohms adjust" wheel on the multi meter which I zeroed by touching the probe ends together before starting. The old coil also registers nothing after ripping the plug connection off so I could touch straight on the wire itself. Am I using my multi-meter wrong? :dizzy:
If you're trying to check 3000 ohms you're on the wrong setting. Use the RX100 or RX1000 and see what she reads. Also, when checking the coil terminals, try reversing the leads also so you can check it both ways as on some solid state ignitions there could be transistors or diodes inside and you need to measure both forward and reverse polarity.
 
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Polarity

Thanks for the tip on polarity. I will do that. And yes, I think my best bet is to just put it all together with the new coil and see if the spark is now created.
 
leeha,very nice saw!I don't think I will find any of those on the eastcoast where I am.But I got to get one.

On another note.Who has ever converted their 125's from points to solid state ignition?And what coil do you use?Thanks
 
leeha,very nice saw!I don't think I will find any of those on the eastcoast where I am.But I got to get one.

On another note.Who has ever converted their 125's from points to solid state ignition?And what coil do you use?Thanks

You use the existing coil. I've converted many using the "Mega Fire" solid state module. It's very easy and takes all of 20 minutes.
 
I take the solid state ignition off a poulan 2000 and put it on the laminates from the SP125. Works good.
 

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