McCulloch Chain Saws

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Thank you Mark:msp_thumbup:

Is it fair to say that if adapters are used, that there are no issues with the oiler holes or the bar tail...specifically related to the 5-10?


Andy
 
BP399-T

McCulloch was planning to get into the snowmobile/ATV/ATC market and were going to build the balanced piston engines as they significantly reduce the vibrations induced into the machines. According to the Popular Science article noted earlier, they had plans for 10 models from 147cc single cylinders all the way up to 1200cc's but no specifics were included on the number of cylinders for the ones over 399cc. HP range was indicated from 10 to 100 HP.

There was an SAE paper written as well (The McCulloch BP-399-T Snowmobile Engine and Its Installation, 720260) by Harry I. Hazzard of McCulloch Company.

Mark

Thanks for the info
 
Thank you Mark:msp_thumbup:

Is it fair to say that if adapters are used, that there are no issues with the oiler holes or the bar tail...specifically related to the 5-10?


Andy

you can say that all you want but that don't necessarily make it so. you still got to look at the location and spacing of the oiler holes on the bar and how they match up with the oiler on the saw. just sayin
 
There is also an easily-solved issue using 'thin profile' bars (not narrow-kerf) where they were not originally intended. The bar plates interfere with the chain and the insertion of 'spacer plates' cures it. Bryce has them sold in pairs on eBay.
 
you can say that all you want but that don't necessarily make it so. you still got to look at the location and spacing of the oiler holes on the bar and how they match up with the oiler on the saw. just sayin

Of course!

Checking clearances and how passages line up are a given.

I wanted to know if there were significant known issues and if so, how did any of of you solve them.

Sorry for the lack of clarity in my question, my primary concern is with the bar tail.

Andy
 
Posted this in the chainsaw forum but thought this might be a good place too. I've got a G-70 with a bow bar and I want to get a regular bar for it. Acres site doesn't show a bar mount pattern for the G-70... is it the same as a cp-70???
 
MNfarmer - My 2-10G has the same large mount bar as other saws with the 3/8" bar studs, I would go out on a limb and say the G70 would be the same, large frame mount for the bar as well.

minosi - You can modify a 10 Series bar to fit the 3/8" studs by filing or milling the slot in the bar, the oil hole will still line up without issue. The biggest challenge is often a slight difference in the orientation of the slot and the adjuster hole, the bar fits and the adjust will engage but you don't have exactly the same amount of travel to tension the chain.

A lot of the large mount saws channel the oil through the "unused" adjuster hole with a passage into the bottom of the groove in the bar. From memory, all of the 10 Series bar oil directly through the oil hole into the bar groove through the "side" of the bar.

Mark
 
Time to enforce "Aaron's" 24 hour rule.....:laugh:

We're gettin' smoked by the Mini thread!

:givebeer:
 
Photo0743_zps6adaa566.jpg

















































You are supposed to post a pic of these type of saws.
 
Hey in taking apart my PM800 (scored piston) ONce I had it all aprt one bearing on the crank slid off. Are they supposed to be pressed fit on the crank? I see no signs of spinning n the crank. Bearing roll very smooth.

Also I have a new piston. Is the there anything special to know on pressing the wrist pin out?
 
Which bearing? The ball bearing on the flywheel side should not slide off, the needle bearing on the PTO side should indeed slide off as there is no inner race to that bearing, the needles run directly against the crankshaft.

I made a wood block with three different diameter semi-circular notches and holes in the bottom to hold the piston (depending on the diameter) and to receive the wrist pin as you press it out. I don't think there is anything special beyond that.

Mark
 
Last edited:
That would make sense on the bearing. I will look at it again this evening. I never even notice what style it was:what:
 
i'm looking to port my 250, make it something more useful then a door stop..
i'd like anyinfo on porting it, i was talking to another member he said he's seen a old article from a karting magazine on how to port the 80cc style..


i'd like to open the non-machined ports tear drop the ports.
 
i'm looking to port my 250, make it something more useful then a door stop..
i'd like anyinfo on porting it, i was talking to another member he said he's seen a old article from a karting magazine on how to port the 80cc style..


i'd like to open the non-machined ports tear drop the ports.

Find the vintage Kart site, they spent a lot of time playing with chainsaw motors.
 
Gents,

I have some projects that are in various stages (like everyone else!), this one is almost there...

5-10E, purchased for $100 along with a 10-10 Automatic. Call it $70.00, day after Thanksgiving.

Pictures as purchased:


280894d1361648885-510e-jpg

View attachment 280894


280895d1361648890-510e2-jpg

View attachment 280895


280896d1361648895-510e3-jpg

View attachment 280896


280897d1361648900-510e4-jpg

View attachment 280897


No real motor issues, though as you will see have not been able to get a good compression number.

Needs new spark plug wire

May have originally been a cutoff saw, so I was told.

Carb full of junk.

Batteries are missing.

Wiring is crap.

More coming...
 
Last edited:
Back
Top