McCulloch Chain Saws

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In the process on this one, I did have to replace the coil wire. Turned out to be very simple, just unscrew one and screw the other one on with a bit of silicone ultra to make sure and seal the moisture out. Everything else was pretty straight forward. Too bad about the cylinder, as far as I know this is the only 57 cc model with the anti-vibe bits. Oh well, I do have a runner now and I'm sure that are not that many collectors that have the whole 57 cc line up - 10-10s, PM55, PM555, and the PM570.

Mark
 
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struggle said:
Here is the large side seal I got from Motion industries. I would guess it depends on what you have locally for seal suppliers.

I think these seals should work fine. Fitment seams good.

I think my cost was around $6 a piece but this is through a commercial account so your results may vary.

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Thanks. Anything on the small side? Anyone got dimensions?
 
Sorry if this has been covered but after doing a couple searches I have not come up with anything on this.

Can anyone tell me what the difference between the 1-40 and 1-50 series was. Same displacement, same years of manufacture, there must be a difference though. I would like to find an old school Mac, maybe 1-40 or 1-50 series, maybe a 250 series for fun (I don't imagine I would cut alot with it but it would be fun to play with). My FIL has a 1-42 that runs and they are kind of cool (His dad's first saw). I know the 250 came along later just wondering if there was any significant differnce between 1-40 and 1-50 series.

Thanks in advance if anyone has any info.


Tim
 
The 1-40 is a relic, it came in two versions, one had no manual oiler and no oil tank, the other had the pump up front. It is low revving, moderately powered.



The 1-50 has more beans and manual oiler, the oil tank filler is on the side.

All things considered, find a 250.
 
The early 1-40's had the "Lubri-Mac" system that scavenged oil and crankcase residue and directed it to the bar by some passages cast in the bottom of the crankcase. You can tell a saw equipped with the Lubri-Mac system by the screw/plug in the bottom of the crankcase. Later versions had the tank divider and oil tank added to the front.

Not sure about the differences between the 1-40 and 1-50 in terms of performance, but the 1-50 version always came with a full wrap handle.

As Randy mentions, find a 250 for the improved choke and manual oiler operation, more snot too.

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You can see how both saws were modeled after the D-30/36 saws with the center pull starter as they retain the housing structure for the center pull starter mechanism.

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Mark
 
IN frustation of saws not cooperating I brought out the SP125 and went to pull it and it locked up:msp_thumbdn:

Cylinder has oil in it again:msp_confused:

This was the way it was one I bought it as well a few GTGs ago. Any idea on why this keeps happening? I replaced the gaskets the first round. It has sat on the shelf since the Fall Iowa GTG so it happened over time.

At least the cylinder will not be rusty:laugh:
 
heimannm said:
I have more gaskets if you think any of those would help.

Makes me wonder if there is an issue within your oil pump that is allowing the oil to sneak past into the cylinder.

Mark
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Well the weather is to be very un useful for me later in the week so I hopefully will l look into it this week. I have to get the PM800 done if its the only saw I bring to the GTG.

Busmech said:
I wonder if the tank vent is plugged.
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Not so sure there even is a tank vent on it? Since it is pulse style the tank has to remain sealed tight as I recall.

I have to weeks worth of paid tree and stump work to do and right now weather is only giving me two days this week that I an work. Today and tomorrow:angry:
 
Front Tank McCullochs

Tim Carroll:

Tim, I'm a fan of front tank McCullochs. They are heavy, clunky and a little slow but they would wear out your body befor you would wear one of them out. If you are looking for a saw to play with, you are on the right track. The difference between most of these saws is the number of transfer ports and exhaust ports and compression.

In order to keep this simple, I recomend that you try to find a 1-52, 1-53 or a super 250. These are 87cc saws with a compression ratio of 6.25 to 1. One of these will give you the most fun for the money.:msp_thumbup: My second choice would be a 250, 1-42 or 1-43 and after that a 1-45, 1-46 or a 1-51 (80cc saws). This is my opinion (in order) of the most power and fun to run for front tank saws. They are superceded by 400s and 500s but I don't think you are going to stumble across one of those.

Good Luck.

ODW
 
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Picked up the 1-72

I finally managed to nail the seller down on this saw after a week of going back and forth via email with zero conversation until I agreed to his asking price. Drove a hard bargain, but when I met him I understood why. Long story there, but suffice to say he needed $95 and wasn't gonna bend....and I almost felt bad buying the saw, but assured him it was going to a good home with some new friends which seemed to make him feel a little better about saying goodbye to it. Yeah, I know...a little sappy there, but I think we all sorta understand how such an attachment can happen.

Anyway, here it is. Probably paid a little too much, but these don't pop up around here very often. Much better shape than I anticipated and only seems to be missing the fastener that holds the rear cover in place, the felling spike, and a bolt on the flywheel cover. Very clean airbox/filter and was stored without fuel so the tank is nice and clean as well. Not sure what compression is supposed to be and haven't checked it yet, but there seems to be plenty of it judging by a few pulls. Will update as I get it cleaned up a bit more and hopefully started and running without discovering any hidden pitfalls along the way.

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