McCulloch Chain Saws

[joeymt33]

She's alive

Got the points all cleaned up, replaced the condenser, reset the gap...and removed the chip of course!

Also, new carb kit, removed (the rest of) the red paint, removed chain brake (waiting on latch and spring to show up) and blasted/painted muffler with VHT Black.


[video=youtube;en-R5QwWgpQ]http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=en-R5QwWgpQ[/video]


My first youtube vid....hopefully it works!

-Andy

Awesome Andy! Can't wait to see a vid if it cutting and the WOW! expression on your face.

 

[joeymt33]

And well the after pic
View attachment 291422

I opened up a 610 so it's ports matched a 650. I didn't raise it as far as you did. I just gasket matched the intake and cleaned the castings. I ran it in a race against marks 650 and it performed comparable. It did make it pull harder than a standard 610 but nothing amazing. One thing you can do is change the zama carb for the walbro. That is, if its got a zama in it. Those zama carbs are smaller than the walbros.

 

[mini mac man]

I'm not commenting on this particular saw but I've always said that you can over port an engine and render it useless (the same with muffler mods) but nobody seems to listen...

It's kind of a trade off, you trade torque for rpms by porting.

This saw was a cantidate for playing with porting.
It's not my saw and I didn't port it. Buddy of mine did.
The exh port was widened not raised and the intake was just barely lowered and I mean just barely.
It seems to run great however no chain to give it a test cut.
It seems to be louder but that doesn't mean anything. We will see when he gets a chain for it.

 

[mini mac man]

Now that I look at the pics a little closer he did raise the port some.
My bad.

 

[heimannm]

Struggle - I made some blocks to cover the intake and exhaust so I can pressure/vacuum test the crank case and seals. If you work carefully installing the seals and use some sealant on the crank case mating surfaces you should be O.K.

Mark

 

[struggle]

Struggle - I made some blocks to cover the intake and exhaust so I can pressure/vacuum test the crank case and seals. If you work carefully installing the seals and use some sealant on the crank case mating surfaces you should be O.K.

Mark

I coated both sides of surfaces with Honda Bond and let it set for a minute and then put it together sequence tightening it down. I'm going to install the cranks seals now and will doa coat of sealant as well on them. If I should get the rest of it done tomorrow later in the evening any reason to not start it as for curing of the sealant?

In the auto world when I did intakes and such at the dealership we ran out the door as quick as we got them done and never had issues so overnight seem like it should be good on these little buggersopcorn:

 

[rwoods]

Hey, Mark. I just want to say thank you for your chain grinding post the other day. I pay attention to the hook when filing and using the Timberline but never gave it a thought when grinding. I noticed I had several flat chains last night. I fixed four of them although they look a little funny now with the little step - another sharpening or two and they start to look "normal" again. I used two of them today and they cut very well. Ron

 

[7oaks]

Thanks Mark!

When I got this Mac 250 at an auction it had a chipped bar nose. I asked on AS if it could be repaired and was told yes but why? Mark offered an original and it arrived in the mail a week or so ago but it wasn't until a couple of days ago that I got out to the farm and mounted it on the saw for pics. Look good together don't they. Oh and I also got the old baby running. Sweet saw - Thanks Mark!

View attachment 291543

 

[heimannm]

I thought I had the D-30 all put together last night, everything looked good and checked out O.K. As I was cleaning up I noticed two sets of reed valves on the work bench, I knew one set came from the extra airbox as I had to change the original for one I found in the attic, couldn't figure where the other came from. When I tried to start the saw this morning, no dice...removed the carburetor and took a look down the intake to discover no reeds.

As I was putting this saw back together I thought I saw a way to remove the airbox without having to pull the side cover off, took a bit of effort but it worked and once it was back together it started on prime, took about 4 primes before it would pull fuel on its on but after that it would restart quite easily. With the bar off it was obvious the Lubri-Mac system was working very well, nice spit of "crank case residue" making it was to the oiler port.

I promised some photos of the unique carburetor found on these older McCulloch saws, I really have no idea of the manufacturer. I have been able to find a few NOS fuel pump diaphragms with the flap valves, but I have never seen a metering diaphragm. Fortunately these were still nice and pliable, just needed a little cleaning to get it ready to go. Notice how there is no metering needle, it uses a ball instead.

Mark

 

[heimannm]

And here is the finished saw. If things work out this week I will get to drop it off at one of my new chain saw acquaintances and maybe bring a few more McParts home with me.

Mark

 

[heimannm]

O.K., just one more...

Mark

 

[minosi]

Awesome Andy! Can't wait to see a vid if it cutting and the WOW! expression on your face.

A McC-Grin if you will

 

[heimannm]

Struggle - (post 20014) I left the D-30 set overnight to make sure the Threebond on the fuel tank would cure satisfactorily. When I had to take it apart again this morning to install the reeds I forgot, the gaskets on the tank and reed plate came apart nicely (I put that part together on Thursday night), went right back together with no more sealer since it had to slide into place, and the saw was running within about 30 minutes. I started and stopped it several times during the day, I am declaring this job a success.

When I put the 10 Series saws together I always check the crank case (pressure / vacuum) immediately upon assembly of the crank case to oil tank (you have to install the entire oiler mechanism to seal the impulse port passage), if it checks out I proceed with assembly and usually have the saw running with 1 to 4 hours depending on what else comes up in the process.

Mark

P.S. I must admit that I was really excited when the D-30 was running this morning, first time in a long time I actually whooped for joy. Very satisfying to see this one come to life.

 

[minosi]

My SP80 (w/NAPA chip) acts just like Lee describes...you have to start it with the throttle locked or it breaks your fingers...but man she runs like f'in animal in the wood!

Normally, I wouldn't quote myself but....

Here is the SP80 I'm referring to. The vid was longer but the sound cut out so I clipped it.

[video=youtube;QhaElKH_nFs]http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=QhaElKH_nFs[/video]

This saw rocks!

-Andy

 

[joeymt33]

Normally, I wouldn't quote myself but....

Here is the SP80 I'm referring to. The vid was longer but the sound cut out so I clipped it.

[video=youtube;QhaElKH_nFs]http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=QhaElKH_nFs[/video]

This saw rocks!

-Andy

Dang! That thing cuts fast!

 

[struggle]

MARK QUICK look in your GARAGE

Someone stole your ranger:hmm3grin2orange:

I will try and vac test it tomorrow. I put the seals in it tonight. I really am hoping it is all good. It is pretty darn straight forward to assemble

 

[mad murdock]

Nice job on the D-30 Mark! Have you weighed that saw? I bet it weighs a hefty sum!

 

[leeha]

Great job on that D30 Mark.
Looks great and nice pic's.




Lee

 

[machinisttx]

Found a craigslist ad for a Super Pro 60. The ad says it runs. Price is $80. Don't know what it's worth. There was also an ad for a 1-71, apparently non running, for $100. Anyone got any advice?

 

[minosi]

Found a craigslist ad for a Super Pro 60. The ad says it runs. Price is $80. Don't know what it's worth. There was also an ad for a 1-71, apparently non running, for $100. Anyone got any advice?

Assuming they are decent cosmetically, not missing parts and the 1-71 is not scored/frozen then I would buy them at that price...bring a flathead, it will take about a minute to check the piston on the 1-71. The 1-** series are built like rocks...it probably doesn't run because of dirty points or junk in the tank/carb.

The SP60 should "hang" by the starter cord and slowly drop to the ground (standard "in-field" compression test). Make sure the decomp is closed first. No real easy way to look through exhaust port on these.

Finding parts for both is pretty easy. The 1-71 could be bored-out if the piston/cylinder are junk...assuming you just "have to have it"...about a $200.00 project, bore + new piston and random parts.

Good luck and post pics!

-Andy