McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
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The only way I know is to try the clutch with the saw assembled, if it is the "right" crankshaft the three shoe clutch/drum will turn, if it is the standard crankshaft the clutch/drum will bind up.
Mark
Mark
mini mac man
ArboristSite Member
Yes, I did see the missing brake components. Are they standard 10 series or unique to 82cc macs? Also noticed long carb screws with no opening in airbox. I don't know how you wear through the bottom of the handles. Leave them idling all day while sitting on concrete?
That why I didn't watch that saw. The wear thru on the wrap. I hope it is a good one for ya.
dieselsmoke
ArboristSite Operative
Probably, sliding around in the back of a pickup. Great compression, it runs, looks complete (minus the chain brake), you're off to a good start. Remember its 40+ years old, probably had several owners, and many farmer mods. Super price on an 82cc Mac!!Yes, I did see the missing brake components. Are they standard 10 series or unique to 82cc macs? Also noticed long carb screws with no opening in airbox. I don't know how you wear through the bottom of the handles. Leave them idling all day while sitting on concrete?
Warped5
WingNut
Looking for a suspect
Ok guys, who won the SP60 off eBay last night?
Ok guys, who won the SP60 off eBay last night?
clintonior
ArboristSite Operative
View attachment 300124
Is this cp125 mac block missing something?
Is this cp125 mac block missing something?
ozflea
Good ol' BP Zoom 25-1
I'd say the decompressor valve
clintonior
ArboristSite Operative
Ozflea the decompressor valve is there its just up and right of the exhaust port. But a block plug is blown out. can the block plugs be replaced?
Last edited:
ozflea
Good ol' BP Zoom 25-1
If the hole for the block plus is worn you may have to tap it and reseal it with a short bolt.
Plug it with the original style plug. If it fits too loose then you
can get one slightly larger. If you can't find one to fit then you
may have to file a larger one to fit. I would not tap it and install
a bolt.
Lee
clintonior
ArboristSite Operative
Make some calls today see if i can get a few plugs.
Make some calls today see if i can get a few plugs.
I have a factory plug i can give you.
Lee
Not feeling the love. Don't believe everything you thought you read on AS. Snake bit.
My fleabay PM800 is giving me fits. As previously reported bad piston, bad cylinder, oiler parts broken, AV mount sheared, etc. I have always thought that ten series cylinders and crankcases are matched machined parts, but I thought I read on AS that they are actually interchangeable. I'm out of cleaner and I've already drilled for the oiler fix so why not just swap the cylinder. At least 6 times on and off pressure testing in a water bath dealing with what I thought was just sealant drying too quickly (it was until I discovered that I was using too much prep spray), I sort it out just to find that there is no way the cylinder will seal to the fleabay crankcase. In my hurry I over-tighten the oiler jig resulting in the wrong angle thus throwing the holes off when I drilled the "new" crankcase. I free handed the fix but I had to sit out the JB Weld cure time to plug the first holes. I put it all together with new seals, pulse line, AV mount, inner bar plate, outer bar plate, 8 pin sprocket, DSP valve and spark plug; the only used parts I put on it were the flywheel, the chain brake/clutch cover, the bar and the chain. As I was cranking it for a test run with the world's shortest recoil rope, I was running through my head what I had actually gotten from my fleabay investment - decent tank, good handle bar, fair AF cover, decent recoil (except the rope), decent flywheel cover, good boot, good fuel line although the bell had been cut off the carb end, good clutch, good muffler, maybe an oiler, bearings and a crankshaft. It ran, accelerated and after adjustment idled well. Once the assembly lube burned off it quit smoking and it ran nice and clean. But then the flywheel loosens, shearing the key and busting the crankshaft. :bang: Someone (who actually knows) please tell me I might be able to simply replace the key, reuse this crankshaft and rely on the taper with a properly tightened flywheel. Ron
PS I can't help but wonder what happen to the original flywheel as the shaft appeared to have spun marks on it and whether the over-tightened replacement flywheel was involved in my diaster. The nut was so tight I had to use a long handled rachet to break it free and I was unable to get the crammed in key out without boogering it so I just left it. I know the loose flywheel was my fault and maybe the result was too. I've sheared keys before but this is my first busted crankshaft.
Mandatory pre-test poses:
Crankshaft shots:
View attachment 300497View attachment 300498View attachment 300499View attachment 300500View attachment 300501
My fleabay PM800 is giving me fits. As previously reported bad piston, bad cylinder, oiler parts broken, AV mount sheared, etc. I have always thought that ten series cylinders and crankcases are matched machined parts, but I thought I read on AS that they are actually interchangeable. I'm out of cleaner and I've already drilled for the oiler fix so why not just swap the cylinder. At least 6 times on and off pressure testing in a water bath dealing with what I thought was just sealant drying too quickly (it was until I discovered that I was using too much prep spray), I sort it out just to find that there is no way the cylinder will seal to the fleabay crankcase. In my hurry I over-tighten the oiler jig resulting in the wrong angle thus throwing the holes off when I drilled the "new" crankcase. I free handed the fix but I had to sit out the JB Weld cure time to plug the first holes. I put it all together with new seals, pulse line, AV mount, inner bar plate, outer bar plate, 8 pin sprocket, DSP valve and spark plug; the only used parts I put on it were the flywheel, the chain brake/clutch cover, the bar and the chain. As I was cranking it for a test run with the world's shortest recoil rope, I was running through my head what I had actually gotten from my fleabay investment - decent tank, good handle bar, fair AF cover, decent recoil (except the rope), decent flywheel cover, good boot, good fuel line although the bell had been cut off the carb end, good clutch, good muffler, maybe an oiler, bearings and a crankshaft. It ran, accelerated and after adjustment idled well. Once the assembly lube burned off it quit smoking and it ran nice and clean. But then the flywheel loosens, shearing the key and busting the crankshaft. :bang: Someone (who actually knows) please tell me I might be able to simply replace the key, reuse this crankshaft and rely on the taper with a properly tightened flywheel. Ron
PS I can't help but wonder what happen to the original flywheel as the shaft appeared to have spun marks on it and whether the over-tightened replacement flywheel was involved in my diaster. The nut was so tight I had to use a long handled rachet to break it free and I was unable to get the crammed in key out without boogering it so I just left it. I know the loose flywheel was my fault and maybe the result was too. I've sheared keys before but this is my first busted crankshaft.
Mandatory pre-test poses:
Crankshaft shots:
View attachment 300497View attachment 300498View attachment 300499View attachment 300500View attachment 300501
joeymt33
I bleed YELLOW!
My fleabay PM800 is giving me fits. As previously reported bad piston, bad cylinder, oiler parts broken, AV mount sheared, etc. I have always thought that ten series cylinders and crankcases are matched machined parts, but I thought I read on AS that they are actually interchangeable. I'm out of cleaner and I've already drilled for the oiler fix so why not just swap the cylinder. At least 6 times on and off pressure testing in a water bath dealing with what I thought was just sealant drying too quickly (it was until I discovered that I was using too much prep spray), I sort it out just to find that there is no way the cylinder will seal to the fleabay crankcase. In my hurry I over-tighten the oiler jig resulting in the wrong angle thus throwing the holes off when I drilled the "new" crankcase. I free handed the fix but I had to sit out the JB Weld cure time to plug the first holes. I put it all together with new seals, pulse line, AV mount, inner bar plate, outer bar plate, 8 pin sprocket, DSP valve and spark plug; the only used parts I put on it were the flywheel, the chain brake/clutch cover, the bar and the chain. As I was cranking it for a test run with the world's shortest recoil rope, I was running through my head what I had actually gotten from my fleabay investment - decent tank, good handle bar, fair AF cover, decent recoil (except the rope), decent flywheel cover, good boot, good fuel line although the bell had been cut off the carb end, good clutch, good muffler, maybe an oiler, bearings and a crankshaft. It ran, accelerated and after adjustment idled well. Once the assembly lube burned off it quit smoking and it ran nice and clean. But then the flywheel loosens, shearing the key and busting the crankshaft. :bang: Someone (who actually knows) please tell me I might be able to simply replace the key, reuse this crankshaft and rely on the taper with a properly tightened flywheel. Ron
PS I can't help but wonder what happen to the original flywheel as the shaft appeared to have spun marks on it and whether the over-tightened replacement flywheel was involved in my diaster. The nut was so tight I had to use a long handled rachet to break it free and I was unable to get the crammed in key out without boogering it so I just left it. I know the loose flywheel was my fault and maybe the result was too. I've sheared keys before but this is my first busted crankshaft.
Mandatory pre-test poses:
Crankshaft shots:
View attachment 300497View attachment 300498View attachment 300499View attachment 300500View attachment 300501
Dang Ron, sorry about the trouble. I've had the same thing happen before. I did just what you said, I put a new key in it and reinstalled it. I've had no trouble with it yet. It's been too long to remember which saw it was now.
That's my vote
clintonior
ArboristSite Operative
[SUP][/SUP]
thanks that'd be great. There is another smaller plug i found on the ipl goes to the oiler hole. Ipl shows a welch plug however i thought i saw someone stake that with a ball lead or BB?
Thanks, Joey. I like your vote. And I would appreciate your advice even if you had voted the other way. Now if you had told me that all crankcases were interchangeable, I might have wanted to choke you late one night this past week; but you didn't. :msp_smile: Ron
joeymt33
I bleed YELLOW!
Hopefully some other guys will chime in. My thought is, if it doesn't hold...same thing happens again with hopefully no damage. I may have another crank if you end up needing one.
Joey
Home for a couple of days, over to Crawfordsville (IN) for a couple of days next week then home again for next weekend.
I did get a couple of NOS 82 cc cylinders from e-Bay while I was traveling, one is for points ignition and DSP valve, the other is a PM800 with the "Q" port and no DSP valve, set up for electronic ignition. I do have one more SP81 with very low compression in the attic, should make a nice project when I can get to it.
I think though I'd better get going on the 101AA saw project. I have several "recipients" available (D-44, 1-71, 795) but no SP105/125; what saws make the easiest conversion to put the 101 in?
Mark
I did get a couple of NOS 82 cc cylinders from e-Bay while I was traveling, one is for points ignition and DSP valve, the other is a PM800 with the "Q" port and no DSP valve, set up for electronic ignition. I do have one more SP81 with very low compression in the attic, should make a nice project when I can get to it.
I think though I'd better get going on the 101AA saw project. I have several "recipients" available (D-44, 1-71, 795) but no SP105/125; what saws make the easiest conversion to put the 101 in?
Mark
machinisttx
Addicted to ArboristSite
I'd weld it up, recut the taper, and then go on with life.
tomscott
firewood hack
Yellow brick question...
PM610: I knew it had been a while since I checked the air filter, so I pulled the cover and yes the filter looked well coated with sawdust. I pulled the air filter out to clean it and was shocked to find that the air box had an almost equal coating of sawdust.
The air filter is a genuine McCulloch NOS I installed within the last few years. The plastic cover is in good shape with a small crack outside of the filter sealing perimeter. I have always doubted whether or not the filter was really being sealed, and now I am sure it is not.
Is this a known issue for the 600 series?
Is there a better metal cover for the 600 series that I can find that would seal better, or some other solution I haven't thought of?
I still have the filter I replaced years ago; I am thinking of doubling them up to perhaps insure a seal at the perimeter, but is not a great solution.
The underside of the flocking was dirty in some areas too, but I have a hard time believing that all that sawdust got pulled through the filter. I am sick that this saw has been breathing dirty air and I don't want any more getting through.
PM610: I knew it had been a while since I checked the air filter, so I pulled the cover and yes the filter looked well coated with sawdust. I pulled the air filter out to clean it and was shocked to find that the air box had an almost equal coating of sawdust.
The air filter is a genuine McCulloch NOS I installed within the last few years. The plastic cover is in good shape with a small crack outside of the filter sealing perimeter. I have always doubted whether or not the filter was really being sealed, and now I am sure it is not.
Is this a known issue for the 600 series?
Is there a better metal cover for the 600 series that I can find that would seal better, or some other solution I haven't thought of?
I still have the filter I replaced years ago; I am thinking of doubling them up to perhaps insure a seal at the perimeter, but is not a great solution.
The underside of the flocking was dirty in some areas too, but I have a hard time believing that all that sawdust got pulled through the filter. I am sick that this saw has been breathing dirty air and I don't want any more getting through.
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