McCulloch Chain Saws

[leeha]

I have extra coils and new condensors for the Supers & Original 797's if ya need. One of my favorite saws to break down with the oil/fuel drained PB the flywheel nut odds are they have not been touched since the Nixon admin now you inspect the condensor/points oil and build-up will and has grounded those condensors out. Remove points cover bolts and inspect points and the wiring that goes through the housing (that must be protected with the plastic inserts that should be there) clean and re-gap points @ 0.016. I would also pull the handle clean and inspect the kill switch and the rout that the kill wire is fed seen many culprit ground the saw out right at the bend is real sharp on the shroud where it feeds through. These are some of the spark issues I just had a Super no spark went right to the condensor full of gunk and wet installed a new one..fired right up they do go bad. Good luck



-Cascade Saw

Terry, .016 point gap is a bit tight on these big inch saws.
I go .020 - .021 with new points and they usually close up
a thou or two. .016 is retarding the ignition and you can
loose a bit of power.



Uncle Lee

 

[paccity]

 

[machinisttx]

thanks do i need a serial # off the saw or a measurement for the rim... my picture posting ability has
been down since my cd reader died in my computer

The model and/or serial number can be found on a metal tag in the airbox. Either should allow you to find an IPL with the correct part number for the air filter. As far as the rim goes, you should be able to tell by comparing it to the illustrations in the oregon catalog, after you remove it. I think the threads on that side are left hand. The clutch is friction fit on a taper, so just tap it a few times after the nut is off and it will pop loose. There will be a roller bearing in either the bore of the clutch drum or left on the crankshaft. If it's in good shape, grease it and reuse. If not, they're cheap.

 

[OREGONLOGGER]

Terry, .016 point gap is a bit tight on these big inch saws.
I go .020 - .021 with new points and they usually close up
a thou or two. .016 is retarding the ignition and you can
loose a bit of power.



Uncle Lee

Don't know what I was thinking:msp_confused: on the 0.016 sorry folks nice catch Lee .... .020 is fine I had to measure one to be sure it's at .020

 

[rwoods]

When your done with those spring boards round up two more and you could make one heck of a ceiling fan. Maybe power it with one your geardrives. :msp_smile: Ron

 

[sbc350]

Found a Mac 10-10 automatic for $100 running apparently is it worth it

 

[cobey]

The model and/or serial number can be found on a metal tag in the airbox. Either should allow you to find an IPL with the correct part number for the air filter. As far as the rim goes, you should be able to tell by comparing it to the illustrations in the oregon catalog, after you remove it. I think the threads on that side are left hand. The clutch is friction fit on a taper, so just tap it a few times after the nut is off and it will pop loose. There will be a roller bearing in either the bore of the clutch drum or left on the crankshaft. If it's in good shape, grease it and reuse. If not, they're cheap.

thank you much ill try to get it apart in the next couple days, I would like to see this thing run again, does any of the guys on AS sell parts for these.. sorry im a noob

 

[joeymt33]

Found a Mac 10-10 automatic for $100 running apparently is it worth it

I don't think so, maybe a 10-10S would be a good deal at $100

 

[sbc350]

I don't think so, maybe a 10-10S would be a good deal at $100

This is the saw I'm guessing its not what your suggesting

 

[machinisttx]

thank you much ill try to get it apart in the next couple days, I would like to see this thing run again, does any of the guys on AS sell parts for these.. sorry im a noob

10-10's are not exactly uncommon. I've probably got 8 of them out in the shop now. Parts are pretty easy to come by, with the exception of the early style domed air filters.

This is the saw I'm guessing its not what your suggesting

Nope. That's an earlier right hand start 10-10, or one that was converted to right hand start. The 10-10S is left hand start and easy to tell apart from other 10-10 models, most of which are also left hand start.

 

[ThistleIA]

Parts are pretty easy to come by, with the exception of the early style domed air filters.

That's the one I'll need before too long.Still not bad,but is a couple tiny wear holes near the top part.

 

[Warped5]

Hi guys! Anyone have AM part numbers for 250 crank seals? Thanks!

 

[rwoods]

I wish I had a recording

I was bucking firewood today with some of my firewood buddies, one of whom has a Stihl 460 that was ported by Terry Landrum. It didn't sound particularly unusual but whenever he was close and the PM800 was running the two set up some kind of strange harmonic that hurt through the ear muffs. You could actually feel it in the saw. If either of us backed off the trigger it would go away. The fella running the 460 didn't notice anything strange. As an aside, I don't think he was running a sharp chain - the 800 was noticeably faster in the cut from my perspective. Ron

 

[cobey]

10-10's are not exactly uncommon. I've probably got 8 of them out in the shop now. Parts are pretty easy to come by, with the exception of the early style domed air filters.



Nope. That's an earlier right hand start 10-10, or one that was converted to right hand start. The 10-10S is left hand start and easy to tell apart from other 10-10 models, most of which are also left hand start.

dang,:msp_ohmy: mine looks like a big dome too

 

[heimannm]

Ron - so what you are saying is that 20 or 30 years after the fact, the Stihl has to be worked over to try and keep up with the PM800??

For the others, I found a few more NOS domed filters with the rubber edges in the attic, send me a PM if you are interested in one. Just as a warning, I won't be back in the USA until 2 or 3 September.

Mark

 

[rwoods]

Ron - so what you are saying is that 20 or 30 years after the fact, the Stihl has to be worked over to try and keep up with the PM800??

For the others, I found a few more NOS domed filters with the rubber edges in the attic, send me a PM if you are interested in one. Just as a warning, I won't be back in the USA until 2 or 3 September.

Mark

Not quite ready to say that, as I haven't run that saw or a stock 460. Terry is a good builder so I think something was wrong. When noodling the 800 was throwing noodles twice as far and it was certainly cutting faster in regular bucking. And the 460 didn't sound to be turning as fast - so I suspect a dull chain or something else to be wrong. If I get a chance to run it, I'll report back. Ron

 

[Eccentric]

I haven't ran a ported 460, but I have ran my SP-81 alongside a stock MS440, MS460, and 372XP. In small wood, they're all a bit faster than the old Mac. In the 28-36" maple and Douglas Fir we were cutting, the SP-81 was both stronger and faster than the newer saws however.

 

[sawfun9]

I ran my 460 and 800 both with 28" bars in 26" fir side by side and the Mac had way more torque and I could not stop the chain no matter how hard I.pushed. the 460 was a bit faster but could be stopped easily. And my 460 is stout. The 800 was way smoother vibe wise, but it weighed 2lbs more as well. I think with 32 or 36 inch bars the 660 would be better competition.

 

[leeha]

Lets shift gears a bit guys and up it 41 cc's from 82cc's.

This Mac SP125C i picked up off ebay as a best offer.
It didn't need much but before i knew it i was full into
a resto.










This 797 i got from Randy Mac quite awhile ago. And finally decided
to tackle the task of another full resto.


Lee

 

[leeha]

Another Super 797 that got a full resto.










Picked this SP105 on a best offer off the bay. Very nice original saw.
And runs like a top. Needed just a carb tune.

Lee