McCulloch Chain Saws

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The saga of turing my 200 continues.

I've gotten some really helpful feedback on trying to turn my 200 from everyone on here and have a new development.

The gasket, carberator adapter to block, that was installed when I got the saw was in rough shape but I wasn't able to find a replacement so I reused it. I spent the better part of 2 hours trying to adjust the mixture and it seemed like I was constantly bouncing between the same few settings every 5 to 10 mins.
The last time I installed the card the gasket developed several tears and was leaking some after fighting with it yesterday I decided to just cut a new one so I pulled it back apart again.
I noticed that the "original" gasket did not have any holes to accommodate the pulse passage. Could this be the root cause of mixture related problems I've been having?
 
The saga of turing my 200 continues.

I've gotten some really helpful feedback on trying to turn my 200 from everyone on here and have a new development.

The gasket, carberator adapter to block, that was installed when I got the saw was in rough shape but I wasn't able to find a replacement so I reused it. I spent the better part of 2 hours trying to adjust the mixture and it seemed like I was constantly bouncing between the same few settings every 5 to 10 mins.
The last time I installed the card the gasket developed several tears and was leaking some after fighting with it yesterday I decided to just cut a new one so I pulled it back apart again.
I noticed that the "original" gasket did not have any holes to accommodate the pulse passage. Could this be the root cause of mixture related problems I've been having?
I believe I answered my own question. this morning it fired up without issue and tore through some 20ish inch white oak without bogging down to much considering that its running 404 chain on a 24 inch solid nose bar.

I'd love to get the cutting speed up a bit and had considered going to a larger diameter 3/8 rim sprocket. I figure the 3/8 chain would put a lower load than 404 so the ratio change would affect the engine less.
Thoughts?
 
Hi guys. Could you kindly point me to the how-to thread that has the duckbill valve conversion from the smaller Mac DB to the larger Homelite DB on bullfrog carb?

Thanks in advance.
 
Just drill the counterbore where the duckbill valve seats, 5/32" bit, you can change the angle on the tip to make it a bit flatter hole if you'd like but it is not necessary. I don't remember exactly how deep to drill, something like 0.177 but deep enough so the body of the Homelite valve will fit all the way in. The idea is for the duckbill to seat in the bottom of the counterbore yet be held in position by the plate on top.

My guess is the old thread photos are all gone.

Mark
 
Is there a way to adust the oiler on a 10-10s? Cleaned the saw yesterday in hopes of finding an adjuster screw.

Thanks.
 
Is there a way to adust the oiler on a 10-10s? Cleaned the saw yesterday in hopes of finding an adjuster screw.

Thanks.

Remove the front oil tank cover by removing the socket head or slotted head screw. The auto oiler is located inside. There will be an adjustment screw on the oiler. Counter clockwise will increase oil output




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Here is a pic of it


7af9dca7915b02651b38889b994f92a6.jpg





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The adjust screw for the automatic oil pump is inside the oil tank. Remove one screw, cover lifts off, gasket normally stays on the cover and can be reused without any leaks.

Adjust screw is on top of the automatic oil pump, some have a lock nut but not all. Takes a 1/4" wrench to adjust the screw, CW for less oil and CCW for more. Don't adjust more than 1/2 turn at a time.

Plastic body with lock nut, plastic body, no lock nut, metal body, lock nut.

DSCN5963.JPG

Mark
 
Fast fingers today Joey, how have you been?

Look over on the SH site, I have three projects underway right now, DE80, PM8200, and PM800...

Almost forgot, CP125 is also in the process of being painted, should be together by the end of the month if I get to spend any time at home.

Mark
 
We covered that question well didn't we.

I've been real busy, traveling a lot.

I've been watching your projects.....quietly.


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Thanks for the premium information, joeymt33 and heimannm. The more I tinker on my Mac the more I appreciate its engineering and simplicity.
 
A couple weeks ago I picked up a ProMac 55 covered in a thick layer of grease/dirt. I pulled it all apart, cleaned off all the gunk and I'm working on putting it back togeather.
The previous owner had tried installing a solid state ignition chip in place of the condenser but had butchered all of the wiring and none of the manuals seem to have a schematic.
Can someone give me a list of the wires in one of these with each of thier termination point?
My plan is to use some high quality copper wire and make new ones.


McCulloch 200
ProMac 700
ProMac 55
Stihl MS250
Husky 235
 
Hey guys- been awhile since I've been on here. I hope everyone is doing well. Seems like traffic is a little light here. I wanted to ask a question. Seems like several of my saws are starting to leaks fuel between the tank halves lately. I vaguely remember Joey sealing some up with something but can't remember what it was. How about it Joey- Is that stuff holding up long term and can you refresh my memory as to what it was? Any help is gladly appreciated.

Mark and Joey- Good to see you guys are still at it. I've mainly just been using my mcculloch's lately but do need to repair several of them and am getting back in the mood to work on the collection a little even maybe :)

Catch you later/ Jeff
 
Here one of many issues with installing a BDC on a 101b when using a sloped intake. The fuel line inlet is almost directly above the cylinder shroud so a tight bend will be necessary. There us no room underneath or a direct underneath double pumper outlet would work.20150114_222014.jpg
 
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