McCulloch Chain Saws

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Thanks for the feedback guys on ratio mixing, I’m going to stick to a 40:1 mix. Another question, I know I ask quite a bit, does anyone know how many drive teeth are on a 28” chain 3/8 pitch? My local saw shop dealer says he needs to know so he can order the chain.
 
Thanks for the feedback guys on ratio mixing, I’m going to stick to a 40:1 mix. Another question, I know I ask quite a bit, does anyone know how many drive teeth are on a 28” chain 3/8 pitch? My local saw shop dealer says he needs to know so he can order the chain.

Good man better to be safe than sorry. Can't help with the chain length but why can't they just spin you one up off the roll?
 
Jethro,if you look at the pic of the oil tank above,you'll see the stud heads against a thin vertical wall.The studs are made from grade 9 steel that's specially hardened.When the nuts are over-tightened,it turns the bar stud head ,that in turn cuts into the soft magnesium,or aluminum tank wall allowing the hardened stud head to just round out the soft metal.
Ed
 
That was my thought Pete,but I'd only be able to put a thin strip of metal between the one stud that's been stripped out.The other stud that's still good will be tight up against that thin verticle strip of metal that's part of the tank.I'm hoping to get into the tank later today.
Ed
 
Good man better to be safe than sorry. Can't help with the chain length but why can't they just spin you one up off the roll?
He doesn't stock full skip semi chisel chain, it's just not purchased in high enough numbers to justify it being stocked. I get it, just makes me wait a little longer ;). Thanks for replying back jethro, does anyone else know how many drive teeth are on a 28" chain - 3/8 pitch?
 
Well guys,I got kinda lucky today with the 7-10.I didn't have to get into the oil tank at all.I put a bar on the saw to give it proper spacing & I put the nuts on the bar studs & tighten them gently.The bar studs didn't turn at all.I think what had happened is the one bar stud came loose a bit from inside the oil tank & by tightened the nut on the stud it drew it back into position.I also put oil in the tank to see if the oiler would work.It took quite a bit of pumping to get the pump primed,but eventually the oil started flowing generously.
Now there's the dilemma with the handle.I talked with Mr.Johnson today about getting a new handle for it.He has them for $48,but they all require two mounting holes on the bottom of the saw.My 7-10 only has one hole.We came to the conclusion that whoever had the saw previously had done some real crappy wannabe engineering on it & possibly had cut off part of the mounting housing.The handle was either broken or rotted & they put a piece of pipe on the mounting spot & pop riveted it to the handle.Needless to say,it wobbled all over the place.I'll see what I can do to make it fit tight,otherwise I'll have to replace the bottom portion of the crankcase with a correct mounting bracket.This is more involved than I wanted to get.
Ed
 
Pictures Ed. I wondered if the stud had just popped in a bit. I'll buy the cylinder if ya scrap it Haha
No,no no,not going to scrap that 7-10,there's too much potential there.Lol I talked with my parts supplier today & he suggested that I cannabalize one of my 10-10's to repair the old girl because of the handle thing.I'm not quite ready for that yet.The guy who mickey moused the handle had the right idea,but he didn't think it through enough.If I need to,I'll make the handle completely out of pipe.I can fabricate anything I want.I have a torch set,a welder,& a vast assortment of tools.My grandpa was quite inventive too,I must've inherited it.Lol
 
No,no no,not going to scrap that 7-10,there's too much potential there.Lol I talked with my parts supplier today & he suggested that I cannabalize one of my 10-10's to repair the old girl because of the handle thing.I'm not quite ready for that yet.The guy who mickey moused the handle had the right idea,but he didn't think it through enough.If I need to,I'll make the handle completely out of pipe.I can fabricate anything I want.I have a torch set,a welder,& a vast assortment of tools.My grandpa was quite inventive too,I must've inherited it.Lol

I'm lost man my 7-10 has 2 screws I have a 10-10 handle on it now the original was a touch bent.
 
I'm happy to say that my 7-10 wasn't in a chop shop after all.I went out this a.m.& looked at my other 7-10 & measured the mounting area on the bottom of the saw where the handle & screws fit in,then I measured the new 7-10,it's the same length.So I thought to myself that there had to be a 2nd hole there,& sure enough,I found it.It was so completely filled in with oil & dirt that I couldn't tell there was a hole there.
I've been told that a 10-10 handle will work.IO looked at the 7-10 & 10-10 IPL's & the part # is the same.However,I found a nice ProMac 10-10 handle on EBay that has all the required parts I need,but the part # is now 214549,the old # is 87686,are these handles interchangeable?I know there are some differences between the 10-10A & ProMac 10-10
Ed
 
I didn't realize you were doing mig welding.The only welding I know how to do is obsolete now - stick welding.Oh,& a little gas welding too,otherwise known as brazing.Good job Tim!
Ed

Flux core actually. Stick will likely be around for a long time. No one doing production hand welding outdoors uses anything but stick unless I'm behind on my weld technology. MIG isn't any good outside. A bit of wind and it blows the gas shield away.

Almost all robotic welding is MIG with the some flux core thrown in. I know Chrysler spec'd flux core on structural components about 10 years ago as MIG welds, even looking good can be bad. Flux core welds will never look as good (at least mine anyway). My ATV frame would be a good example. Two good looking MIG welds with no penetration.
 
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