McCulloch Chain Saws

[2broke2ride]

Links to the two parts you need. Pictures and directions that come with the adapter kit
https://ezpourspout.com/product/replacement-water-spout-vent-kit/
https://ezpourspout.com/product/metal-can-adapter/

 

[edju1958]

I'll pass this along as it's worked well for me.The bar oils that are out there are too heavy I've found.Bob Johnson told me this just over a yr.ago - take out a pint of bar oil from a gal.jug & put in a pint of either diesel fuel or kerosene,shake it up good & use it.It comes out of your oilers with ease,it cleans any sludge build up out of your lines,& it still has plenty of viscosity to oil your bar & chain.I can't tell you how many oilers I've had fail over the yrs.,especially those cheap plastic gear oilers.

I'm looking for an old Walbro SDC2 to put on one of my 2-10's that had a bullfrog on it.I plan on putting a ProMac10-10 tank handle on it.
Ed

 

[rwoods]

Links to the two parts you need. Pictures and directions that come with the adapter kit ... .

I have one of those for my mix can. Either I didn't get the grey jug size adapter or I have lost it. Will likely give Brian's idea a try since I like to tinker.

As to bar oils, once I switched to TSC from Stihl and tighten down all my oilers I haven't had any re-occurring problems. When I was using Stihl bar oil, I had repeated oiler failures.

Ron

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Thanks for all the comments on chains. Dogged in I have no issue with semi chisel except in those fallings where speed is a priority - a barber chair prone tree. Can’t beat it for dirty cutting or the ocassional nail. It was just aggravating the hound out of me today cutting in the piles left by the line clearance guys. Kept bouncing and tossing wood instead of going into a cut when I cut with the tip of the bar like I usually do in those situations. Having to add down pressure in awkward footing was also problematic. Like most of life, it has its trade offs.

Can’t wait to get my 700 back from Brian. I last ran it around 2010.

Ron

Don't know how you adjust your rakers, but a Husky progressive depth gauge tool will definitely smooth out the bouncing. Lowering the rakers a hair may also give you some addition self-feeding capability unless that particular chain is just out of whack in a spot or two causing the jumpiness.

I've never felt like I needed to 'fight' or lean on semi-chisel chain unless it didn't have a good filing or grind on it ..., or the rakers weren't right. Same with full chisel.

And I use TSC bar oil, too. Can't beat it for 5 bux a gallon. Works fine for me all year round, though I don't cut much in super cold temps. Would simply dilute it a hair with diesel if needed.

 

[rwoods]

Poge, sorry I wasn’ t clear. The chain wasn’t bouncing. It was bouncing wood everywhere. Chain was actually smooth running.

Unless TSC doesn’t repeat their sale soon, I will stick with them. If it stays at the regular price, I may venture out and try another inexpensive brand.

Ron

 

[edju1958]

Like you Ron,that's all I've been using for the past 25 yrs.is TSC bar & chain oil.I can't get it as cheap as you can though.I get it for $6/gal.when they have a sale.Before TSC I think I was using Central Tractor brand.
Ed

 

[rwoods]

Central Tractor, now that is a name from the past. Most older locals here will know you mean TSC when you absentmindedly say, I going to Central Tractor. The kids just look at you like your nuts. Ron

PS I will settle for $6. Maybe they’ll have a Spring sale to make shelf space.

 

[edju1958]

I've got a Timberbear that's refusing to pull fuel.I rebuilt the carb a while back & had problems with it,so I took it to a saw shop & he just let it sit collecting dust for 3 months,never touched it.I got pissed & HAD MY SON PICK IT UP FOR ME.iN THOSE 3 MONTHS i HAD TIME TO THINK ABOUT IT & WENT THROUGH THE CARB AGAIN.i FOUND TWO THINGS AT THE TIME,ONE WAS i HADN'T SET THE NEEDLES CORRECTLY.i PUT IT BACK TOGETHER & HAD THE SAME PROBLEM - IT WON'T START.i TOOK IT TO ANOTHER SAW SHOP & THIS ONE ACTUALLY WORKED ON IT.tHEY SAID ONE OF THE GASKETS WASN'T PROPERLY LINED UP.i GOT THE SAW HOME & TWO DAYS LATER i HAD THE SAME PROBLEM.i TOOK IT BACK TO THE SAW SHOP & HE PULLED IT 5 TIMES & IT STARTED.i BROUGHT THE SAW HOME & TRIED TO START IT THE NEXT DAY,SAME PROBLEM,WON'T START.fAST FWD TO TODAY.i PULLED ON THAT SAW & IT WOULDN'T START AGAIN.tHIS TIME i FIGUREReD THAT MAYBE IT NEEDED A NEW FUEL LINE,SO i CHANGED THE FUEL LINE & filter.I pulled on that damn saw over 50 times & it won't pull fuel.I pulled the plug & it was as dry as a bone.I put fuel in the plug hole & put the plug back in & it fired.I do have spark.I need help here.(sorry about the caps,I hit the caps lock when I'm typing & I didn't feel like retyping)
Ed

 

[Brian Thacker]

A very small hole in the fuel line or the diaphragm will keep it from picking up fuel. If you remove the sides of the carb are their fuel in them? If not then I would replace the fuel line and filter and gaskets and diaphragm on the fuel pump side of the carb. I have seen the gaskets leak or even the flapper valves not seat in carbs and it not let it pick up fuel.

Brian

 

[Scott Sonntag]

Hey guys, quick question, got the 10-10 fuel tank to seal but now having fuel leak through where the fuel line comes through into the air box. Tried weatherstripping adhesive since i am adhering rubber to metal but the fuel ate it away. Any ideas guys on what kind of adhesive will work? Any tricks y’all know of?
Scott

 

[vinnywv]

Scott, wrap a few times around the fuel line where it goes through the tank with teflon tape. Place it back in there, it should seal up. Gas wont hurt the tape.

 

[vinnywv]

Edju, have you checked impulse? Ive not worked on one of those so im not sure if its got a impulse hose or a hole. Take carb off and squirt a few drops of fuel into the impulse hole. Pull the rope and see if it shoots it back out, cover your eyes though...itll burn a bit. If its got a hose check it also for leaks.

 

[edju1958]

Thanks for replying guys.
Brian,I replaced the fuel line & filter & still no start.
Vinny,this saw has an impulse hole.I put a wire down through it back when I had the carb off the 2nd time in Dec.The sawe shop had it running after they fixed my carb problem.I'm thinking of trying a different carb & see what happens.
Ed

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Poge, sorry I wasn’ t clear. The chain wasn’t bouncing. It was bouncing wood everywhere. Chain was actually smooth running.

You were perfectly clear. I just didn't read it very clearly!

 

[2broke2ride]

I got the 7-10 mostly put back together tonight. I am waiting on a new fuel line to arrive. Installing the tank on this saw with the kill switch activated compression release in an exercise in patience!!!! And I may have to.take it back.apart again! The manual oiler is leaking at the gasket. It seems the body is warped. I will see just how bad it leaks and go from there.

 

[fossil]

That leak might turn into a bad enough air leak that the oilers won't work. Keep that in mind if the auto oiler isn't oiling enough.

 

[2broke2ride]

I'm afraid of that Tim, as of right now the manual oiler does work, havent had the saw running to check the auto oiler yet.

I would gladly buy an oil pump if someone has one to spare.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Can't work the pump body with some emery cloth on a piece o' glass or other smooth surface to get rid of the warp?

 

[2broke2ride]

Maybe, but it would remove the little ridges that are designed to bite into the gasket.
Also I was just messing with it some more and all of a sudden couldnt push the button anymore. Pulled the recoil back.of so I could see in there and the little plastic cap that is supposed to hold the pushrod in place broke and the push rod wont stay on the pump piston anymore [emoji35] I swear this saw is cursed lol. Or maybe I'm cursed.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

You really earn yer wings with these things, don't ya? LOL