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PogoInTheWoods said:
No check valve listed for either of those HL's. D18 'check valve nozzle' is listed in the misc. parts diagram section of my Tillotson HL material as part number 012084, but it's not pictured/identified in the main exploded parts diagram illustration. There appear to have been 2 or 3 checked nozzles used in HL's over time, mostly in sled and kart applications from what I can tell. Aftermarket versions of the nozzles are readily available from the kart and sled parts suppliers.

Quit pissin' up a rope. Do a leak check on that thing.
Click to expand...
Leak check will be happening tonight, thanks for the info on the check valve or lack thereof

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2broke2ride said:
I also noticed while I had it running, there seemed to be a lot of air in the fuel line, all the lines are new.......check valve in the carb maybe? I have the Tillotson manual printed but they are not clear on where the check valve is located or how to check/replace it.

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Click to expand...
Switch fuel lines again
 
I have three 10-series gear drive saws that i'm trying to figure out exactly what to do with. Super LG-6, LG-6, and 5-10G. I would like to sell 2 and keep 1 saw. I'm leaning towards keeping the 5-10G but I haven't decided yet. The Super LG-6 is complete as well as the 5-10G but the LG-6 is missing parts at this time ( they're on their way, fella forgot to put them in the box). I didn't know if anyone would have any interest in these saws or would have any input on what I should keep and or sell. They're super cool saws and I hate to sell some, but I need to make some money and buy some more saws! Let me know what yall think, THANKS
 
PogoInTheWoods said:
Quit pissin' up a rope. Do a leak check on that thing.
Click to expand...

Best advice I've heard all week haha. I had a few unexpected leaks myself recently when building my super 55. Intake adapter apparently had a leaky seam and head gasket had a couple small leaks due to some roughness on the metal that I hadn't seen the first time around. Leak down tests are your best friend, gives some good peace of mind.
Speaking of which I finished it. Super thrilled with how this one turned out. Has a lot of snort, great tone and compression! Going to head out this weekend and give it a go on some Doug fir.
fc200d02e81f7f969d6ca92907a7152c.jpg
f64a9a0dfbdff95fcb68f7b95f1f3bfd.jpg


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daltonsjunk said:
I have three 10-series gear drive saws that i'm trying to figure out exactly what to do with. Super LG-6, LG-6, and 5-10G. I would like to sell 2 and keep 1 saw. I'm leaning towards keeping the 5-10G but I haven't decided yet. The Super LG-6 is complete as well as the 5-10G but the LG-6 is missing parts at this time ( they're on their way, fella forgot to put them in the box). I didn't know if anyone would have any interest in these saws or would have any input on what I should keep and or sell. They're super cool saws and I hate to sell some, but I need to make some money and buy some more saws! Let me know what yall think, THANKS
Click to expand...
Pictures are a good idea.
 
Brief update on the 5-10, my seals came in so now I'm just waiting on a clutch drum and a bit of time. Also, I found out my 1-42 has a few holes in the gas tank due to rot so it's sitting until I get a parts saw off of a guy I know.
 
Turd Furgeson said:
Hey Guys,

I bought a NOS Oregon roller nose bar from a small engine shop that was supposed to be a MAC pattern. I tried mounting it on my 125, 790, and 550. The tail doesn't clear the clutch and when holding the bar plates up to the bar the adjuster and oil holes don't line up. The seller insists it's a older Mac pattern, I know there were a few versions, but after looking at an old Oregon chart, I think this bar is a H010 mount for old Partners.

Can anyone confirm?

The model number on the bar is 33441

Thanks,

Scott
Click to expand...
You can likely adapt that bar to a big Mac, however, you will probably have to re-drill the oil holes, and possibly modify the adjuster slots. I have done this with Stihl bars so the will fit a Mac. There are bar stud adapters available from Cannon that work quite well.
 
Maintenance supervisor said:

Alot of us talk about Buckin making the macs famous, but I discovered them before I ever saw his videos.
This is why I fell in love with Mccullochs . They get it done.
Click to expand...

For a 54cc saw.....they are flat amazing. Way ahead of their time for power.
 
North East Tennessee Saturday MAC Report

Beautiful day in North East Tennessee with temperatures in the twenties and warming to 32*. Wasted a half hour with gelled fuel in the tractor. The cold didn't bother the MAC. I ran a tank through the PM800 today primarily just sectioning two nice storm downed red oaks. Most of my day was spent on the tractor pulling out the hung up one. Not sure what Brian was up to today.


Hanger Red Oak
IMG_6084.JPG

"Hanger" PM800 - pinched in second Red Oak.
IMG_6092.JPG

Freed with a little wedge work.
IMG_6095.JPG

18+ foot saw log from downed tree.
IMG_6096.JPG

22+ foot saw log from hanger. Firewood log in background is from down tree.
IMG_6114.JPG

Be safe.

Ron

This valuable report is provided through the the generous support of MacNuts like you and Blind Squirrel Falling, one of America's greatest imaginary businesses.
 
So a little update on the Super 250. I got about an hour this evening to mess with it. It either has a giant air leak or my test equipment is faulty lol. I can pump about 5psi with my mighty vac if pump as fast as I can but it won't hold at all. I sprayed both crank seals, the intake gaskets the best could, and the stuffer and I could not find any leaks....... I may resort to hooking it up to regulates shop air and dunking in a bucket lol. I also found the spark plug threads are quite boogered up, the plug seems to tighten but I think I may just pull this saw down all the way and totally go through it. Is there anyone remaking gasket sets for these like they are for 10 series saws?

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2broke2ride said:
So a little update on the Super 250. I got about an hour this evening to mess with it. It either has a giant air leak or my test equipment is faulty lol. I can pump about 5psi with my mighty vac if pump as fast as I can but it won't hold at all. I sprayed both crank seals, the intake gaskets the best could, and the stuffer and I could not find any leaks....... I may resort to hooking it up to regulates shop air and dunking in a bucket lol. I also found the spark plug threads are quite boogered up, the plug seems to tighten but I think I may just pull this saw down all the way and totally go through it. Is there anyone remaking gasket sets for these like they are for 10 series saws?

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Click to expand...
Check around the reed/intake area?
 
rwoods said:
North East Tennessee Saturday MAC Report

Beautiful day in North East Tennessee with temperatures in the twenties and warming to 32*. Wasted a half hour with gelled fuel in the tractor. The cold didn't bother the MAC. I ran a tank through the PM800 today primarily just sectioning two nice storm downed red oaks. Most of my day was spent on the tractor pulling out the hung up one. Not sure what Brian was up to today.


Hanger Red Oak
View attachment 886123

"Hanger" PM800 - pinched in second Red Oak.
View attachment 886126

Freed with a little wedge work.
View attachment 886132

18+ foot saw log from downed tree.
View attachment 886133

22+ foot saw log from hanger. Firewood log in background is from down tree.
View attachment 886135

Be safe.

Ron

This valuable report is provided through the the generous support of MacNuts like you and Blind Squirrel Falling, one of America's greatest imaginary businesses.
Click to expand...
Nice. Brian has a pinched nerve in his back and has little control of his right leg. Hopefully I will be back in service soon. I want to run some saws.

Brian
 
Back a while ago I posted that I'd gotten a 10-10S & the fuel line was a monstrosity of Mickey Moused half fast engineering (I had pics of it posted).The carb needed a rebuild ,which I did & put it all together & couldn't get it to draw fuel + the new fuel line from Bob J.leaked at the tank seam.Yesterday I pulled the carb to see why it wouldn't pull fuel & I'm ashamed to even make this post.There were 2 diaphragms that went in the SDC44A carb.I had them in in the correct order,but the beige diaphragm I had in backwards.I've never done this even when I first started rebuilding carbs.Also,one of the small flaps on the black diaphragm got bent under & I can't seem to get it back in shape again.Fortunately I had another kit on hand & put new fuel pump diaphragms in & it's back together.So,today I'll need to pull the new fuel line out & give it a couple wraps of Teflon tape & reinstall the line & carb.Somewhere along the way I misplaced the new needle boot that I got from Bob J.& at $10 a pop I'm not buying another one.
 

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