McCulloch Chain Saws

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edju1958 said:
Poge,#24 is the spring that keeps popping up on the side of the OPL & sticks right up on the right side of it.I push it back down & get it to hook on the underside of the OPl,but it doesn't stay in place.
Click to expand...
Which end of the spring? If positioned correctly, the rear of the spring typically can't come loose along the right side of the lever unless the 'L' end is either broken off, it's completely bent out of shape, or the spring isn't positioned correctly and is installed upside down..., or there's a physical problem with the lever or its orientation. The front of the spring should simply be wedged against the interior of the handle frame to create the tension. Easiest way to diagnose the problem is to remove the bottom cover (#8) from the handle to see what's what and correct it. Removing the trigger will provide the best view and any necessary access. 15 minute job to thoroughly inspect and determine what may be wrong in there.

As for your broken spring, depending how far in the break is, it can be heated (as in red hot) and re-shaped to fit the slot. Quench it immediately afterward. Easy fix. I've done several successfully.
 
Hey guys.
I wanted some advice on rebuilding a Mac 35 fuel pump so I started a thread in the general chainsaw section so it could be it's own thread. If you have knowledge on this subject please give it a look.
Thanks.
Rob.
 
2broke2ride said:
Do you have a 450? Most people don't realize the 450 is 90cc not the common 87cc.

Sent from my SM-G981U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Yep. I have one. You are right though. A lot of people call them 87cc. Do you have other information on the 450? Like... Is the third port drilled? What is the compression ratio? I only have one and haven't had it a part.
 
Rob - If the air filter cover is original I would guess it it a 1-70. The 44 and 55 saws all had yellow covers, the 1-70 and 1-80 had that style cover in black.

1-70 8.jpg

1-70 9.jpg

Some have suggested the D-44/55 models were configured more for RPM and the 1-70/80 saws were configured more for torque. I don't have the experience to confirm or deny.

Mark
 
matt_lamb_160 said:
Yep. I have one. You are right though. A lot of people call them 87cc. Do you have other information on the 450? Like... Is the third port drilled? What is the compression ratio? I only have one and haven't had it a part.
Click to expand...
Nope, I have one, but it is far back on the list of projecr saws. When I do get it apart I will note anything I find.

Sent from my SM-G981U using Tapatalk
 
PogoInTheWoods said:
Which end of the spring? If positioned correctly, the rear of the spring typically can't come loose along the right side of the lever unless the 'L' end is either broken off, it's completely bent out of shape, or the spring isn't positioned correctly and is installed upside down..., or there's a physical problem with the lever or its orientation. The front of the spring should simply be wedged against the interior of the handle frame to create the tension. Easiest way to diagnose the problem is to remove the bottom cover (#8) from the handle to see what's what and correct it. Removing the trigger will provide the best view and any necessary access. 15 minute job to thoroughly inspect and determine what may be wrong in there.

As for your broken spring, depending how far in the break is, it can be heated (as in red hot) and re-shaped to fit the slot. Quench it immediately afterward. Easy fix. I've done several successfully.
Click to expand...
Poge,I took a good look at the OPL today with a light shining in there,had to tip the saw upside down of course.The "L" is still there,so it might be bent,or the front of the spring might be buggered too.Taking the trigger assembly apart & putting it back together so it works is not in my magical bag of tricks.I can surely take it apart,but putting it back together again is the difficult part for me.Those springs are under tension & when I pop the pin out the tension is released I'll have no idea how to put it back together properly.I have difficulty seeing things & I might have to give this up entirely soon enough.This is what happens when I trust someone & buy a used part.
Edit:well that's a hoot,there's no #8 on the saw handle,it's just wide open.The end with the "L" on it,or the rear of the spring is what keeps popping up on the right side of the OPL.There's no way I can get a pic on here to show you what I'm talking about.I'd like to know how the spring can get bent in the first pl;ace.
 
2broke2ride said:
Nope, I have one, but it is far back on the list of projecr saws. When I do get it apart I will note anything I find.

Sent from my SM-G981U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Hey guys,I've got a 450 (pure powerhouse) & you're right about the displacement.Acres has it listed as 87cc,but he's wrong.There was a write up here not too long ago (maybe by one of the guys on the "ask for manuals" thread).According to an owner's manual the 450 is indeed 90cc (actually it's a hair over 90cc).
 
Hi guys, just got this "for parts" PM 10-10S.

ad_pic.jpg

It's missing some bits and doesn't appear to have done much work, so thought that it might be locked up, but figured it'd be worth the 50 bucks in parts for my other saws. Turns out it runs! I've yet to go over it, but holds itself up by the rope, the tank's spotless; though what I found under the flywheel cover can only be described as otherworldly; everything coated with an inch of sawdust, tightly packed sawdust clumps the size of my palm ... never seen anything like it!

The saw came to me as pictured, without clutch, and I've noticed that there are significant rust spots on the exposed crank areas, pictured below. I haven't encountered this before; can it be cleaned up somehow? I'd expect these surfaces should be super smooth for the drum roller pins and tight fit of the clutch ...

1010s_crank.JPG
 
Marvin Booysen said:
Hi guys, just got this "for parts" PM 10-10S.

View attachment 912837

It's missing some bits and doesn't appear to have done much work, so thought that it might be locked up, but figured it'd be worth the 50 bucks in parts for my other saws. Turns out it runs! I've yet to go over it, but holds itself up by the rope, the tank's spotless; though what I found under the flywheel cover can only be described as otherworldly; everything coated with an inch of sawdust, tightly packed sawdust clumps the size of my palm ... never seen anything like it!

The saw came to me as pictured, without clutch, and I've noticed that there are significant rust spots on the exposed crank areas, pictured below. I haven't encountered this before; can it be cleaned up somehow? I'd expect these surfaces should be super smooth for the drum roller pins and tight fit of the clutch ...

View attachment 912840
Click to expand...
Those rust spots should clean up with some 200 grit emery cloth.It won't remove any of the shaft & it'll polish up nicely.Looks like the clutch has been off for a while & stored in damp/humid conditions.
 
Poge,when it comes to a broken rewind spring I don't mess around trying to "fix" it by reshaping the end.I figure if the spring broke it's because the metal has been stressed so much that's why it broke in the first place & it'll continue to do so.Just my 2 cents.Besides,for $14 I got a new spring shipped to my door with free shipping.I didn't bother with Bob J.because it takes him a montyh to get my order shipped & he doesn't want to ship just one item.
 
I was picking up a few parts from a fellow saw guy and he mentioned he had some "Mac stuff" for me. $75 later I came home with all this and a few off-brand parts I needed. The PM8200 looks like it has maybe 1 tank run through it, unless you guys recommend otherwise it'll probably hit the trading post. It might be missing a few bits, but I'm not sure yet.
IMG_7273.jpegIMG_7274.jpegIMG_7275.jpegIMG_7278.jpegIMG_7279.jpegIMG_7280.jpegIMG_7281.jpegIMG_7282.jpeg
 

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