What does the mystery oil pump look like? Thick, flat, aluminum plate?
McCulloch Chain Saws
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What does the mystery oil pump look like? Thick, flat, aluminum plate?
Yeah Tim,pretty much,with an adjustment screw sticking out of it.I took the "pump" off to see if it needed cleaning & it was clean.It had channels cut into it,which I assume were used to direct oil flow.Can I put a different pump on,like the one with the piston?I'll take the pump off again either tomorrow or Wed.& get a pic of it on here.
Poge is right on staying away from the opinionated FB groups.Those guys there THINK they know what they're talking about,but in reality they just like to put up pics for everyone to see what they have.There are a few membersd here (myself included) who belong to the FB groups,& that comment I just made was not directed to you guys at all.The majority of them don't know their arse from a hole in the ground.Stay the course & get your info you need here & you'll have that 797 running like a song.If you need parts - gaskets,bearings,rings,etc.just give old Bob Johnson a call & most likely he can fix you up.
It's just a check valve. You have one of the not so common manual oiler only 10-10's. I have one.
As far as making it an auto oiler saw, I have no idea.
Apparently that check valve is no good.I took the manual oiler off to make sure it had the check valve in it,it had the check valve disc.I put a different oiler on it thinking thaty the O ring was no good,but the oiler I put on didn't work either.When I filled the tank with oil the first time it poured out of somewhere all over my makeshift table I have outside.I have no idea where it came from,I'm assuming it came out of the bar pad opening.I had to empty the tank to put the other oiler on & I filled it again & had no oil all over the 2nd time.I can pump till the cows come home & it doesn't pump oil.I usually rely on the manual oilers on these saws,but with manual only not working I'm pretty much up the creek without a paddle.
Top Rock in Brampton
The screw in the side covers a spring and a check ball. You might try and clean that out to make sure it's working.
The screw in the side covers a spring and a check ball. You might try and clean that out to make sure it's working.
The automatic oil pump should mount where the check valve was, but you may need to open the port to the crankcase to operate the piston. The check valve mounts with three screws like the automatic oil pump on the older models.
Mark
Mark
So it can be converted to an automatic oiler! How would I open the impulse port,with a drill?And what size would that be?First I'll pull the check valve out & try cleaning it.IO'll be very mindful of that spring & little ball.
Nickolas
Retired and messing around with old stuff...
It's been a long time since I've been here and I just popped in to read a bit. Most here are into the newer saws or models I don't mess with. I can answer your question about the 4-30A. These 50's gear drives are all I collect, run and rebuild. The 4-30A model was an upgraded more powerful saw with around 6 degrees advanced timing for added power. It has the 19025A crank in it and the change in valve timing on both the crankcase cover and rotary valve as well that's different from the 4-30. That's the main difference from the regular 4-30 although there may be other slight changes.
I've rebuilt quite a few of these and find them very reliable saws. Easy to start and tune and great for cutting large timber if your not in a hurry. I am not a logger but cut a fair amount of wood yearly. I prefer to run these over any other saw. I usually run a 73 or 77 with 9/16" & 5/8" chain. I prefer the larger chain myself and never had any problems finding it or sprockets although the 5/8" pitch isn't easy to locate it seems now.
I never run any saw I pick up as is I always totally disassemble them and replace all gaskets and seals, rebuild the fuel primer, oil pump, fuel pump, etc. I just make my own gaskets from Fel Pro karopak and they always turn out well. The newer style carb on Later 73's or on a 77 are much nicer to tune and more stable or reliable than the saws with the adjustment screw on the right side of the saw however I have a few models that run very well with the older setup. They can be adapted to run with the later style carb with mixture adjustment on it but it's several steps to modify it. Anyway these are my type of saws so I jumped in to tell you what I know about them...
Nick
Sent from my moto g stylus (2021) using Tapatalk
Can anyone point me in the right direction for help figuring out why I'm not getting good oil to the chain on my late 70's pro 10-10 automatic?
I have adjusted the oiler (which seems to function well), but no matter how heavy the flow is set the chain never flings oil consistently, it all just seems to pour out around the bar studs and makes a big mess under the clutch cover.
I put an oregon 20" bar on there that is supposed to be a fit for this saw, and I'm using a generic all season bar oil...
I have adjusted the oiler (which seems to function well), but no matter how heavy the flow is set the chain never flings oil consistently, it all just seems to pour out around the bar studs and makes a big mess under the clutch cover.
I put an oregon 20" bar on there that is supposed to be a fit for this saw, and I'm using a generic all season bar oil...
Vizsla - Try running the saw with the bar and chain off and verify that the oiler is in fact pumping enough oil. If yes, (from your description is sounds like the case) then you need to focus on the bar as there are some that will "fit" but the oiler holes may not correspond correctly.
The 10 Series bars should be a D-176 or D-276 mount although there are several others that can be made to work with some adjustments. If it is a brand new bar, check to make sure the oil passage is open and not partially blocked with paint or clear coat from the bar manufacturer.
Also take a look at the bar pad on the saw and verify that it has not been damaged and allowing oil to leak out where it's not supposed to.
Is your saw equipped with bar protector plates? Are they correct and undamaged? There were some bar plates provided with the Titan 50/57 and Double Eagle 50 saws that did not have the slot for oil passage (outside bar plates only) that someone could have mistakenly installed.
Mark
The 10 Series bars should be a D-176 or D-276 mount although there are several others that can be made to work with some adjustments. If it is a brand new bar, check to make sure the oil passage is open and not partially blocked with paint or clear coat from the bar manufacturer.
Also take a look at the bar pad on the saw and verify that it has not been damaged and allowing oil to leak out where it's not supposed to.
Is your saw equipped with bar protector plates? Are they correct and undamaged? There were some bar plates provided with the Titan 50/57 and Double Eagle 50 saws that did not have the slot for oil passage (outside bar plates only) that someone could have mistakenly installed.
Mark
Ok, ive looked and looked, called discount marine, called bob with no luck. Im looking for 2 saw parts for a cp70/55. 2 parts to go and i can get it all together. Looking for the lower mount bracket (83112) and the coil mounting bracket for the flywheel cover (69628). The lower bracket is more important at this point, 83112. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
woody stromnen in wisconsin might have what you're looking for 1-608-558-3145
No luck, thanks though. Ill keep lookibg
Wow. You could maybe fab that coil bracket, but the 83112 looks like a unique part as the 10 series saws go. Kinda weird for McCulloch to do something like that.
Look up cp 55 or cp 70 on chainsawr, maybe they'll have them.
It may be worth calling them or maybe even Bryce at customchainsaw parts.
Thanks guys, lots of things i never thought of.
Would anyone know the part # of the check valve in the manual oiler only saw?I called Bob J.today to see if he had a new one & he got quite flustered because he never ran into a saw like that & didn't have a part # for it.
There are two (check valves).
The body that's in place of an auto oil pump is the check valve assembly for the tank. It consists of the body, a 1/4-20 screw, a spring, and a 5/32 dia. steel ball. 63263, 63262, 63034, 100071 respectively according to the Sept. '67 IPL for 10 prefixed saws. It's probably fine, but can be serviced from the top with a squirt of brake cleaner if the spring and ball seem stuck. Otherwise, it's easily removed from inside the oil tank and should be completely serviceable with the original parts if it requires disassembly -- which simply involves unscrewing the screw and not letting the spring launch into orbit if there's actually nothing wrong with it in the first place. That's the tank check valve.
There's also the common/normal manual pump check valve which is simply the little disc in the pump body gasket -- 62909.
A little searching would have found this excellent examination of the 10 series oilers provided by Mark a couple of years ago. I've also attached Mac's tech note on the oilers. I think you should be covered.
https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/mcculloch-10-series-oiler.249620/
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