McCulloch super 797 crank seals

[SawTuner]

I was curious where you guys get crank seals for the old saws? I have a McCulloch super 797 that i need crank seals for and i don't have a parts manual for it. Does anyone have a part number for them that I could possibly cross reference?
Any help would be appreciated.

 

[SawTuner]

Ok so I did find some crank seals for the super 797. In my research I found out that the super 797 was designed around the 101b engine. I found that the crank seals for the flywheel side are the same, part #57897 and #57898; there are 2 stacked on each other. The other side, clutch side, I'm not positive is the same but the part #104432.
Hope this can help someone else.

 

[heimannm]

Just remove the seals and get a good measurement of the shaft and the bore the seal presses in. The seals are standard units and most any good bearing shop will have them or can get them. You won't find 57897 anywhere, that is a peculiar thin seal that is simply not available anywhere. You will be fine with only one, just try to get a double lip seal if possible.

I have this information from a list that Eccentric started many years ago for what it's worth.

Top Tank Mac

-F/W inner seal: 57898. Aftermarket?

-F/W outer seal: 57897. Aftermarket?

-PTO seal: 104432 or 104486. SKF 6640. SKF 6816.

-Bearings: 66016. IIRC they are 6203 C3 bearings. Will confirm /update.



Mark

 

[SawTuner]

Hi thanks for the reply, but the thin seal your talking about I found on ebay here's the link https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/372374188203

I believe these are the right seals.

 

[heimannm]

Those are NOS, get them while you can as the thin seals are no longer in production anywhere that I have found.

Mark

 

[SawTuner]

Ok, I did order a set for the super 797.
I just have to get the cylinder rebored because it was scored so bad, then I can put it all back together.

 

[heimannm]

Make sure to send your oversize piston with the cylinder so they can match the bore to the piston.

Mark

 

[SawTuner]

Yup I got a piston that was .052 over.
Thanks

 

[buzz sawyer]

Regarding the seals, at least on the SP125C(same seals), they are installed flat faces against each other. I always thought it was so they seal on the vac and pressure pulses.
Early Homelites had a similar seal design.

 

[SawTuner]

Interesting, thanks for the pic.

 

[KUBOTA OWNER]

Well fired up the saw today and it does run half assed with the choke half closed, warmed it up and then took a compression test , 110 psi then pressured tested. I never pressure tested anything with a reed plate before. Thought I may not have to block off the carb . but it leaks through the reed plate. Did find that the crank seal leaks on the clutch side leaks bad! You can feel air blowing
out with my pressure regulator set at 10psi. I usually will squirt with soapy water but hardly need to to find this leak. Flywheel side seems fine. Now the fun part, How do i find a seal?? Not sure about the part number I need.
I also pulled the saw further apart because the oiler would not work. Has no rubber cup on the
oil pump shaft?? didn't find any old broken parts it was just gone?
I'm to stubborn to give up on anything, but this might be the first if i can't find a seal.
I played with the oil pump and was able to sent the pump shaft and spring across the garage!!
and now the spring seems to be hiding somewhere!!! Yikes its a ***** getting old.
You guy on here are sure helpful, I'm sure you all love saws as much as me. Love these big old saws!!

 

[buzz sawyer]

Bump - Have you tried ebay? https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=mcculloch+797+seals&_sacat=0

 

[KUBOTA OWNER]

Yes, been searching ebay but not sure which one I need, wish I had a part no.
Is there a parts break down to find a correct part no? Thanks

 

[heimannm]

I have crankshaft seals and the cup seals for the oiler.

Mark

 

[KUBOTA OWNER]

Wow Mark, Thats great, how can I get them and pay you?

 

[heimannm]

I started a conversation, click on the letter looking icon in the upper RH corner of the page.

Mark

 

[KUBOTA OWNER]

I have crankshaft seals and the cup seals for the oiler.

Mark

Mark, Thanks again and also to all of the other members. I received the crank seals and oiler cup yesterday. I removed and installed the pto side seal and it was a perfect fit. I was not sure about replacing the flywheel side but decided to even through it was not leaking on a pressure test.
I'm sure you have removed the points, coil and the housing to make access to the seal a little easier. Well I removed all but one bolt, and it would be the 1/4" one that was inside the points housing area. I stripped off the head even with a 6 point snap on socket. Tried a impact hammer too and it would not move. Pressure tested again and it's sealed good. Might have been kept lubricated from the wick to keep the points lubed. I decided to leave it.
So the carb. has been rebuilt with new diaphragms and gaskets, new pto seal, and new fuel line and oil pump cup. And also removed about a pound of gunk from 20 years ago.
Filled up the tank with 32-1 and pulled the saw over for about 20 times without a plug, choke on until I could smell gas. This is something I have always done after major carb or fuel work. Really makes it easy to get fuel up to the carb. Insall spark plug, started on second pull, adjusted idle speed and saw idles perfect, let run a little and hit the throttle. Readjust the mixture slightly and saw runs just perfect!! revs and idles down nice.
I even fixed the choke button, Drilled and installed two roll pins to make the choke lock into the on position. Can't believe they ever thought you could hold the choke button on and pull it to start. Let saw cool down and restarted first pull with choke on. Cleaned up the bar and chain, installed and run again to check oil function works fine. I'm just tickled pink!! love these old beasts!! Thanks again to everyone, And especially to Mark.