Me Again Asking More Questions....562XP

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Well it might be a mistake, but I'm pretty confident that if all the parts are there, I will get atleast one together.

So if it has the older carb, is that a deal breaker? Do the later saws need to be flashed also?
 
Grab them quick!
I've done several and some 550s as well and all have turned out great. Great price!
If they are early ones like mine most had air leaks on the transfer covers and scored the piston. I had to replace the piston but the cylinders cleaned up fine. One had bad bearing/seal so I had to split the case.
You must P &V test them so figure the equipment cost into your budget.
Get them flashed at the dealer and run them!
Fun saws to run. I would do it in a heartbeat.
2stroker
 
AT software can tell you a lot about your saws condition, problems, reset carb, idle time, hours run, top rpm and a lot more. I have an el46, which is the worst and saw has always run great, no hot start problems. Had a 2018 55a and sold it (good saw), but if people know carb models 44 &46's are a hard sell. All AT saws may need to be flashed, it does not happen often, but have seen saws lose software, stop running, get flashed and run great.
 
Grab them quick!
I've done several and some 550s as well and all have turned out great. Great price!
If they are early ones like mine most had air leaks on the transfer covers and scored the piston. I had to replace the piston but the cylinders cleaned up fine. One had bad bearing/seal so I had to split the case.
You must P &V test them so figure the equipment cost into your budget.
Get them flashed at the dealer and run them!
Fun saws to run. I would do it in a heartbeat.
2stroker
I already have all the tools I should need. Like I said, I've already built several saws, just never a Husky saw.
 
"flashed back" - it's an expression that goes way back in time and never seems to age.
I guess it's a little bit like modern cars (too many times mentioned), the old ones you can do entirely yourself to perfection.
Four wheels, four suspensions, four brake drums or discs.
They had a different view on structure back in the days, structural integrals counted more than the economical gains because they believed in that.
Now there is a new 20 year old boss fresh from the institute demanding an economical efficiency production revelation every year.
Quality is actually needed to be degraded constantly in time for that expectation to be fulfilled.
 
Now there is a new 20 year old boss fresh from the institute demanding an economical efficiency production revelation every year.
Quality is actually needed to be degraded constantly in time for that expectation to be fulfilled.

*Guessing* because you are from Norway, English is not your native tongue, but you sure wouldn't know it by your last 2 sentences.

I'm jealous of those who can speak 2 or more languages fluently ... we native English speakers have it too easy - the rest of the world frequently speaks better English than many of us.

Well said!
 
*Guessing* because you are from Norway, English is not your native tongue, but you sure wouldn't know it by your last 2 sentences.

I'm jealous of those who can speak 2 or more languages fluently ... we native English speakers have it too easy - the rest of the world frequently speaks better English than many of us.

Well said!

Thanks. I am confident you received my point of view :cheers:
 
I had the guy send me more pictures. It looks like the parts are all there. I also had him take pictures of each carb, one was a EL48 and the other was a 55 from what I could tell. Is there any issue with these two? I can't remember which were the desirable ones? Does this give an estimate on the age of the saws? If they are different years, are the parts interchangeable? Thanks again.
 
That info is already in your thread..
You're right. I have been reading so many threads on these saws I forgot I already asked some of these questions. With that said, it appears they are the latest versions with the good carbs so that is nice. Not sure if it makes any difference, but it also appears the cases have 7 holes from the other pictures he sent me.
 
The reason those things were brought up in your thread (by others) is because they are important.
I understand, and as stated, I saw that this had already been answered, but whether the parts (besides carb and module) were interchangeable between the two was not. I cannot see if both crankcases have 7 holes, if one has 6 holes and one has 7, will the remainder of the parts, i.e. the cylinder, handle, and plastics bolt up from one to the other, I am not sure which crankcase got broken? Sorry for my annoying questions. Just seems like these saws have a lot of little quirks with them, and a lot of little differences, some good, and some bad.
 
I'm with the camp that says "this is more trouble than it's worth". Unless it is merely educational..

Find a good 359, 357, 365, 266, 262, 268..,,(or, and especially, the Jonsered equivalents)
Then you'll have something cool to run that will have NO issues. The ONLY things the 562 has on any of the older saws is SLIGHTLY better AV and handling, which, imo is far offset by ugliness and unreliability.

I've bought a couple of "bikes-in-a-box" over the years. One was used for parts only. The other one was sold a couple of years ago, still unmolested in its boxes..and I "threw in" the remainder of the raided one.

you can end up with a lot of piles of **** laying around
 
I'm with the camp that says "this is more trouble than it's worth". Unless it is merely educational..

Find a good 359, 357, 365, 266, 262, 268..,,(or, and especially, the Jonsered equivalents)
Then you'll have something cool to run that will have NO issues. The ONLY things the 562 has on any of the older saws is SLIGHTLY better AV and handling, which, imo is far offset by ugliness and unreliability.

I've bought a couple of "bikes-in-a-box" over the years. One was used for parts only. The other one was sold a couple of years ago, still unmolested in its boxes..and I "threw in" the remainder of the raided one.

you can end up with a lot of piles of **** laying around
This is a hobby for me, I like to tinker, I don't cut trees for a living. With that said, I agree it could be a lost cause, but I also need a winter project, and I have had success with buying "bikes-in-a-box" in the past, cars, motorcycles, saws, etc.. Hell my MS461 came as a box of parts, and now I wouldn't trade that saw for any other saw out there. Both cases may be the same, I just can't tell from the pictures, but even if they are not, as long a majority of the parts are there, I can still build one for less than buying new. I can buy a new complete OEM crankcase for $104, so I can always build it piece by piece if I have to. Looking at the latest pictures he sent me, it looks like most of the parts are in good shape.

Again, thank you for your feedback.
 
For $100 dollars. I would be in. Either saw el48 or later 55a model are ones you want. Those are both later model saws with interchangeable parts, just keep ignition module and carb side module together. Carbs can be interchanged, side module no, unless you flash saw. Re-flashing a saw is no big deal if your local dealer has the software and connectors, easy process. Plugs into connection on carb and let it do it's thing. Before taking it to get flashed, try a different spark plug, sounds odd, but have seen it solve saw problems several times. I would not consider rebuild without replacing case bearings and seals. Complete lower ends are a nice option. If you purchase it and decide, I made a mistake, contact me and I may take it off your hands.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top