HARRY BARKER
ArboristSite Guru
sweet...thanks!
Milled my first cylinder tonight!!!!!
- Thread starter parrisw
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parrisw
Tree Freak
I have a working 394 cyl that needs a little off the top. Got a price set yet?
Ummm, no idea. If you really want and trust me to do it. Feel free to send it to me, and I'll do it, even just for the experience at this point.
No worries man. Post away as much as you want, its positive for all of us, to have a guy like you around here giving advice on this type of thing. I'm still working on the piston holder we talked about, I'm doing it a little different but pretty much the same, I'm waiting on a drill chuck for the tailstock before I can finish.
ha ha. Oh well, I got mine so not too worry.
FATGUY
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so you all know, maching is not alchemy, it's common sense mostly. If you have a question, I'm more than happy to answer if I can. BTW, i've been doing this for a living for a while and I still screw up every now and then so never feel bad about that.
AUSSIE1
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FATGUY
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No, CL no good to me, but I did have a look on Ebay.
no worries about machine work, you've got more than one good buddy here that'll fix you up.
parrisw
Tree Freak
Ya, but he could buy a lathe for what shipping would cost back and fourth a few times from where he lives.
Don't know. Not even sure how to set that up.
You'll need a boring bar
You'll need a boring bar
TraditionalTool
Addicted to ArboristSite
Don't be afraid to use a little WD40 or Tap Magic when your cutting.
parrisw
Tree Freak
I have boring bars, that's not the problem, it would be very difficult to set up the cylinder in a lathe so you can get inside with a tool. Most people use jigs made so you can run a drill with a mandrel on it and some sand paper from what I've seen.
parrisw
Tree Freak
Yes, I was thinking that, I had a can of WD sitting right there, just didn't think of it at the time. What can I say, I'm a greenhorn.
I've cut the combustion chamber before by taking 80 grit sticky back sand paper. You take an old piston that corresponds with the bore, stick the piston crown on the sand paper, trace it out with a knife, trim the edges up so you do mess up the plating. Take a screwdriver to fit in between the piston bosses so you can turn it.
parrisw
Tree Freak
That's a good Idea. I don't really have any need to cut the combustion chamber though at this point.
Well one day an :angel: will come as Ghandi and tell you that it's best.
AUSSIE1
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Plenty good people alright Nik.
As I buy a cyl from Bailey's Will.
B200 is spot on though, as it got me lookin.
One of the many tools I've been thinking about without going any further than that.
parrisw
Tree Freak
I've thought about a lathe for years. Finally got one.
AUSSIE1
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parrisw
Tree Freak
Yeah I know...............how do think that makes us feel?
ha ha. sorry. Well just have Baileys ship your next cylinder over here first.
stihlboy
Guess who's back
meow????
lol im havin fun now!
lol im havin fun now!
AUSSIE1
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Sorry, I read every post and I still don't understand how your mandrel works. Let me try - the cylinder slides on but gets tighter when the squish band meets the mandrel? What does the tailstock do besides keeping it more rigid?
If your mandrel had a hole through it and 3 or 4 slits along the length, and a taper to match your live center, then tailstock pressure would expand the mandrel. Then if cylinders varied a few thousandths in diameter you could grip a wider range.
I am NOT criticizing your work! You did it and I didn't! And it looks good. I'm just trying to understand better.
If your mandrel had a hole through it and 3 or 4 slits along the length, and a taper to match your live center, then tailstock pressure would expand the mandrel. Then if cylinders varied a few thousandths in diameter you could grip a wider range.
I am NOT criticizing your work! You did it and I didn't! And it looks good. I'm just trying to understand better.
