Modded Saws for Milling?

[WadePatton]

Makes sense to me, but I see no reference to HP mods for milling. Muffler mods at the very least I'd think. Am I barking the wrong tree again?

I understand that other mods are good too--for chip clearing and oiling and such.

 

[NWCS]

you would benefit greatly from a modded saw for milling use, one thing to keep in mind with milling is engine size is everything. if your going to mill a lot i would say stihl 066 or any other large saw. torque is the one of the most important factors in this application. some old saws can be ideal but have a downside, parts availability! using a saw that still has parts available at a place that you can access is key, weather it be online or your local dealers.

my personal rec would be a stage 2 modded MS660 from Washington Hot Saws. what can i say, i work with the best

 

[fishhuntcutwood]

Are you looking for specific references to mods and milling? You likely won't find it. Because I guess it could be considered for granted that mods will help a saw under most any circumstance. Especially a muffler mod, where you can dump some excess heat, and excess heat being common place with milling.

As far as interior mods, I'm not a mod expert, but I'd talk to the builder and make sure the saw's torque numbers where going to improve and not just the top end speed or hp at 11k in the cut. Torque is king in milling, and the saw will need to power through lower rpm situations and not completely bog down. This is why old 056's turning 7 or maybe 8k in the cut rule-they're right at home at lower rpm's and will perform happily in their intended power bands. A saw that can turn 15k ain't worth a darn if it can't stay in it's power band with 32" buried for 8' worth of a cut...repeatedly.

And I'm not sure what mods you're referring to as far as oiling and chip clearing.

Jeff

 

[timberwolf]

Mod's would need to be done with milling in mind.

muffler, no question!

You don't want more heat, increased compression will make more heat. So you don't want to go that direction.

Due to high loads on the saw anything that reduces support to the piston or rings will lead to a high rate of wear.

Maybe not much more than a clean up of the ports, but I wonder if increasing the base volume to expand the torque range could make the saw better for milling.

 

[WadePatton]

Well I found a guy who is running an 088 for milling. Haven't talked to him yet, but I think he's all stock--and I know he's had a little trouble, but I don't know what sort of mill or how big he's cutting.

Then (through the site here) I found a racing saw guy (066 Stihl) 'bout 40 miles up the road. I'll be seeing him soon.

The mods I was referring to were talked about in the book on chainsaw milling that was published in the late 70's or early 80's. Great book, out of print and expen$ive on the used book market. I borrowed a copy. I need to write down the title and author. Big guy with a 090 and a pipe. Smoking pipe that is. Alaskan mill. Granberg should buy the rights and reprint the darn thing.

 

[tek9tim]

my personal rec would be a stage 2 modded MS660 from Washington Hot Saws.

Hey, I've got one of those. Well, almost. I dropped it off with him a couple days ago. I intend to mill a bit with mine. I milled before with my old 066, and that worked fairly well, but it was a limited amount. I ran a 42" bar, although only about 33" of it was in wood.

Talk to Dean, he says he can build saws for milling. I didn't want mine fully focused on milling, but still really torquey. We'll see how it turns out. I'll be sure to let y'all know.

 

[bugfart]

You know, these are pretty big saws.
On my test Homie XL923 is where I try things with mixed results. But it's one heck of a saw to play with.

I might try putting in an extra cylinder gasket and using a Bosch spark plug in conjunction to the muffler mod. I'm talking the old school saws but we are talking about grunt work right?

Now, before you jump on me for not doing a bunch of grinding on a non piston ported saw, the old Homies were pretty well set with the xfer and intakes out of the box with reed systems. There is more to be had from the scavenging and exhaust aspects. As a matter of fact you can about make these fuel spitting machines.

Anyway, I cant help but reason that a little more squish room for fuel and the more agressive plug make good use of that scavenging. Old school scavenging is making sure the exhaust port opens before the intake. "Make a hole!"

Just a thought. We'll find out next week when I do this regardless. Before and after timed cuts on the hardest cherry tree I have ever seen. It was downed (not touching the ground about waist high) 5 years ago and is hard as a rock. Love the smell though.

As a matter of fact I should note carb adjustments tach readings and stuff. It's an 82cc saw that would need some kind of help to mill.

Any experts care to guess the results before I do it? We'll call this "The failed cylinder gasket approach with muffler mod... and fries. "

 

[Andy1234]

The book he's talking about is Chainsaw Lumbermaking, by Will Malloff (sp?)

 

[WadePatton]

The book he's talking about is Chainsaw Lumbermaking, by Will Malloff (sp?)

Exactamundo. Proper spelling and all.

Highly recommended, but hard to find. He mods the clutch cover for chip clearing. He details how to build jigs for special cuts. AND the coolest thing is the boat-winch pulley system/remote throttle. Crank that saw right through the work! Lots of neat stuff in there.

 

[johnb]

Mods a must

Yes, definitely get a modified saw Husky or Stihl it doesn't matter. I run a 394xpg on a woodbug chainsaw mill www.woodbug.com and get good results. The mod saw will definitely run cooler as others have stated plus having it re-set to a 32:1 ratio will better guarantee good lubercation on those long cuts. Make sure your chain is sharp and keep the saw from over revving. I bought my saw from walker saw shop although it isn't fully walkerized it has been modified to better support my milling needs. I would recomend them they are good people. The last word of advice is run a good quality motoroil not bar oil while milling your bar will last longer. good luck! The Hoosier

 

[bugfart]

Chainsaw Lumbermaking, by Will Malloff (The Taunton Press, 5 2 Church Hill Rd., Box 355, Newtown, CT 06470, 1982), is a largeformat, hardbound, 213-page tome available at bookstores, or from the publisher for the cover price of $22.95 postpaid. Author Melloff spent three decades as a professional logger and some 20 years developing and refining the chain saw lumber-making procedures he describes in this monumental reference work. The price keeps us from recommending this one to the casual chain saw miller. But if you're planning to build a cabin or other large structure with lumber you'll be milling with your chain saw, then Chainsaw Lumbermaking quite likely will pay back its cover price the first day of cutting. Briefly, there are sections on saws, chain, lumber mill attachments, winches and other log-handling tools, felling trees, and precision and specialty milling.

 

[Gypo Logger]

Will Malloff's book is worth it's weight in gold. Now out of print, you'd be hard pressed to find one for under 100$.
John

 

[WadePatton]

Chainsaw Lumbermaking, by Will Malloff (The Taunton Press, 5 2 Church Hill Rd., Box 355, Newtown, CT 06470, 1982), is a largeformat, hardbound, 213-page tome available at bookstores, or from the publisher for the cover price of $22.95 postpaid.

Yeah, I'll take TWO at that price. OUT OF PRINT.

Used market is $75-200US.