MS 036 Pro

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paintgiant

paintgiant

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Hey guys, I picked up an 036 Pro from a local auction the other day and am trying to get it going. The saw will fire on full choke as normal. Next I flip the switch to high idle and it kicks but won't run more than 1 second. Just kind of sputters. I have rebuilt the carburetor using the old gaskets and diaphragm all of which looked fine and the diaphragm was not crinkly at all. I also put in a new fuel line and fuel filter today. I have yet to try a new spark plug but it does have good spark, seems to be a whitish blue. I want to try a new plug regardless. Was curious as to if I should look at the impulse line and what else I might look at next if the plug doesn't work out. Thank you much for your time and help.
 
watsonr

watsonr

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buy a new kit and do an actual rebuild. not just a quick cleaning.
also, check the fuel line for cracks (can't remember if that saw has an impulse line) check it all.

Agree, carb kit and if that doesn't work send it to me, my 036 pro is lonely for a brother! Do check the impulse line to make sure its tight to the flange, if it's cracked, replace it.
 
paintgiant

paintgiant

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Thanks for the quick replies, in regards to the fuel line we can rule that out because I replaced that and the filter today. I will see about getting a carb kit for it as I know they are inexpensive and I have a stihl dealer right by me. In regard to the adjustment screws I would have gladly screwed them all the way in and 1 full turn out (from what I've read this should at least get it running) but it has the plastic limiters on the screws and I can't figure out how to get them off. Should I just cut the nubs with an exacto and then back them out all the way? I can't see how they're really there to hold the place seeing as they already have springs to hold there placement. I'm assuming they're there for emissions reasons so people who don't know what they're doing can't foul them up? Also in regard to the impulse line, I have only heard this mentioned in reading I assume its located somewhere between the engine block and the fuel tank? Also wanted to mention that I checked the tank vent and didn't see any debri or clogging in there. Thanks for the help so far:rock:
 
PA Plumber

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Looks like you're getting there.

I did pay too much for an 036 Pro a few weeks ago. Got her home and she's getting a new fuel line, impulse line, and fuel tank vent.

I was kinda perturbed at how much I paid until the muffler was off.

The crosshatch marks look new on the cylinder, and the piston looks great. Whew!

Drilled out the muffler a tad and just waiting on a couple of parts to come in.

Hopefully it's a good runner. Haven't been around one before.
 
Man of $tihl

Man of $tihl

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Looks like you're getting there.

I did pay too much for an 036 Pro a few weeks ago. Got her home and she's getting a new fuel line, impulse line, and fuel tank vent.

I was kinda perturbed at how much I paid until the muffler was off.

The crosshatch marks look new on the cylinder, and the piston looks great. Whew!

Drilled out the muffler a tad and just waiting on a couple of parts to come in.

Hopefully it's a good runner. Haven't been around one before.
You'll like it. I love mine.
 
PA Plumber

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Impulse line: Mine has a nipple just below the cylinder side facing the carb, and attaches to a 90 degree nipple near where the carb boot goes through to the carb.

It can be easily replaced with a pair of needle nose pliers.
 
paintgiant

paintgiant

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PA Plumber- I hear ya I'm not sure if I paid too much but I know Stihls are great saws and really wanted one to play around with. I currently have a homelite xl 12 (older blue) that I got for free and fixed up. Its a great saw but I wanted something a little bigger. Ironically the night before the auction I also purchased a Homelite xl 925 on ebay to fix up and most likely sell but couldn't pass up the Stihl the next morning. I think at this point I'm officially addicted and there's no turning back. Sounds like you got a nice saw there!

I'll take care of those limiters tomorrow and adjust the carb to see where I'm at. I will also take a look at the impulse line. I've never seen an impulse line so these are new to me, do I gain access to it by taking off the starter cover as well as the engine cover? Any tricky springs I need to worry about flying out when I do this? Reason I ask is because I wasn't prepared for what happened when I took apart the throttle linkage in the handle to reengage the safety mechanism. Also, you guys mentioned drilling out the muffler, how many holes and at what locations would your recommend?
 
watsonr

watsonr

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Take off the top cover and look between the tank and cylinder on the right side, you should see it there, needle-nose or forceps work great. It's just a hose, no moving parts to fly off. I often do the red-neck thing, drill three holes about 1/4-3/8 inch and retune. There are lots of threads about how, welding and all that. They say go 85% of the muffler opening measured from the cylinder with the muffler removed. I just drill a few holes in the front and never had a problem, don't have a welder, just a drill.
 
paintgiant

paintgiant

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Hahaha my apologies, based on the looks of it PA I'd say its been married more than a couple times.

Watsonr- I'm in the Shenandoah Valley region. Whereabouts are you located?
 
paintgiant

paintgiant

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Ok got the chance to sneak a peek into the muffler today for the first time. Piston and rings look gorgeous! I noticed the wire flock screen in the muffler was completely clogged with dirt. Just pull that thing out with needle nose wash out and insert? That may be part of my problem I'm thinking. Also looked at the impulse line, it looked ok but I'll replace it anyway. Haven't gotten to do anything else yet like the carb adjustments or new plug I'll most likely get to it tomorrow if not definitely Friday.
 
Sport Faller

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Ok got the chance to sneak a peek into the muffler today for the first time. Piston and rings look gorgeous! I noticed the wire flock screen in the muffler was completely clogged with dirt. Just pull that thing out with needle nose wash out and insert? That may be part of my problem I'm thinking. Also looked at the impulse line, it looked ok but I'll replace it anyway. Haven't gotten to do anything else yet like the carb adjustments or new plug I'll most likely get to it tomorrow if not definitely Friday.

the best way to clean that clogged up spark arrestor is with a propane torch, heat it up cherry red (don't let it touch anything it'll bend real easy) and that carbon will vanish
 
paintgiant

paintgiant

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Thanks bigskyjake, unfortunately I don't have a propane torch with me here at school. Are there any other ways? Looks like mostly dirt although as you mentioned I'm sure there's a fair amount of carbon build up there too. Could I use carb cleaner or brake-clean? I also don't have an air compressor, only have the canned compressed air and I don't think that'd be strong enough. Guess I could take a pick to it and clean it out that way.
 
Sport Faller

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Thanks bigskyjake, unfortunately I don't have a propane torch with me here at school. Are there any other ways? Looks like mostly dirt although as you mentioned I'm sure there's a fair amount of carbon build up there too. Could I use carb cleaner or brake-clean? I also don't have an air compressor, only have the canned compressed air and I don't think that'd be strong enough. Guess I could take a pick to it and clean it out that way.

I don't know if I'd use a pick and carb cleaner doesn't seem to get it all that well, so I'd say soak er in oven cleaner or go to the gas station and buy one of the disposable butane torch style lighters for a couple bucks and you's be set
 
JustinM

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Hrm.

If it was me, I would stop replacing everything & first try to tune the carb. I know you're not replacing expensive stuff, but there's a very good chance it simply needs some adjustment. Sounds like the L screw might be out of whack (why it is starting on full choke but dying thereafter).

You mention the limiter tabs are stopping you from getting enough movement - try cutting them off & see if you can solve your problem with a slight adjustment to the carburetor. Its possible the impulse line is gone or you need a full carb rebuild, but I would say that more than likely it is simply a case of adjustments.

I think you'll love the saw. Imho one of the best 60cc class saws ever made. Ahead of its time when it was introduced and still a perfectly capable workhorse.
 

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