Ms 261 c m oiler , need more oil.

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speeco

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Not enough oil output, chain is always loose after a few cuts. I have 3 / 8 s ,16 inch bar. And yes pump is on highest setting. Also carbide chain. I am cutting white oak logs. When saw runs out of gas , it will still have about half of a tank of oil. So i just installed a new oil pump , but its not any better. So is there any way to get more oil output ? Also saw will pretty much self feed in the log.
 
Is your chain and bar overheating? Advances have changed the amount of oiling that is required. A good practice to help lubricate is the take a break every few cuts and spin the saw at half throttle until oil flings off the tip.


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Why use a carbide chain? Yes it will last longer but sharpening it is a pain once it finally dulls.


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Try a lighter weight oil or even straight motor oil
With that short of a bar you shouldn’t need it tacky
I think carbide are the easiest chains to sharpen because you can’t dull the like steel chain
2 passes is the most ever took on a carbide
The diamond wheel is pricey
I need to sharpen about 15more to pay for the wheel!

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I think what he wants to know is how increase the flow of bar oil. Because that is what I’m wanting to do too


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I'd check several things:
1) make sure the pick-up filter is not clogged in tank.
2) make sure the pick-up hose is not kinked/pinched/twisted/damaged
3) check to see if the oil hole in the bar is clear and lined up with the oil port slot on the saw.
4) check to see if the oil line from pump to the bar is clogged/pinched/kinked.
5) are you running a really thick chain oil....if so, then the slower usage would be normal.

When a saw "self-feeds" it really drinks the fuel.....which is a good thing. So that may be why you have lots of oil left over. If your carbide chain is new that could explain the "loose chain" problem as it gets broken in and settles in to its working length. The bigger question is whether the chain is getting hot from lack of oil. This will usually create sharp edge rolls on the outer edges of the bar rails and will also reduce the thickness of the feet on the chain tie straps (where the tie straps slide on the bar rails). I'm just thinking you it may be possible you don't have a saw problem as much as you may have a newer chain that has not yet settled in to a fixed length.
Hope some of these suggestions might help you chase down the issue. You, likely, have check most of these already! Good luck with the search!
 
Why do you think you need more oil?
Chain keeps getting loose, have to retighten it with every tank of gas. and bar is getting hot also. chain always looks dry. even the drive links have little to no oil on them. At this rate chain links will be worn out long before the cutters are. These are logs with dirt packed into the bark, to much sharpening with reg. chain.
 
Well i looked i do have a .050 bar, good question though. Dirt may have something to do with it. This saw in the winter never gets a loose chain this often. I might put this bar and chain on my 460 or 660 , has high output pump. I work on saws at a jd dealership.we have sold stihl since 2009. I could put a 16 " bar on my good old pm 700 , it has auto & manual oiler ha ha. Bottom line i just do not want to wear this big $ chain out to soon.
 
I have my old oil pump , l might try to modify it . But i am getting busy with wood calls also. O the good old days when i used to work on the old yellow saws. Pm 10_ 10 s & 700 s. Even the much hated mini macs all these would oil real well ,if adjusted properly. But now we have to help save the planet. I do get it , but more oil output would be better. Half tank of oil, left when out of gas is not enough , for for this chain.
.
 
Is oil spraying from the bar tip when you rev saw with bars facing down onto wood, card etc?
You thinking maybe the dirt is swallowing up the oil and working like a grinding compound to eat the chain away?
Nope, but evidence of dirt being heavily embedded in the bark will give any chain a hard time carbide or not. Pics of chain cutters cutting edge will either show problem or rule it out. I've put several hundred hrs through several MS261's, I kinda know what their pitfalls are & are not. Problem with threads like these is we have to presume the OP is either correctly setting up and maintaining his chain or he is not. Pics remove doubt and provide facts that can help us assist him. No shame in being wrong, I could be, that's how we learn. Don't let a damn chainsaw chain hurt your pride. Let's sort it out & while your at it if you put a pic up of your spare oiler so we can show you how that can be improved for more oil while we're at it.
 
I sometimes wonder whether folks are asking for help or just making some sort of statement or opinion about their concerns of a product. Folks try to help and when they realise what's actually happening which contradicts their initial post/assumption, they run off to the far yonder with their tail between let's so their pride don't get hurt on a forum :eek:. Others may have similar issues and find the thread useful but I guess we'll never know.
 
I would like to know how to modify the Oiler on the chainsaw I fount where mastermind did one. That’s the reason why I would like to know. But at this time I can’t get to my chainsaw tell next summer


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Make sure the oil is coming out of the bar pad with the bar and cover off. Then check the bar entry area, make sure it’s clean.

Are you using a Stihl bar? Make sure that it’s lined up with the oiler hole, as in the two holes align, the bar pad and the bar hole.

Run saw with bar and no chain. See I’ve the groove is filling with oil.

There’s a thread on the Verböten site about modding pumps.

If it’s oiling properly, you shouldn’t need more than 1/2 tank of oil to a tank of fuel. FWIW, the MS261 has a very small fuel tank.
 
Try a lighter weight oil or even straight motor oil
With that short of a bar you shouldn’t need it tacky
I think carbide are the easiest chains to sharpen because you can’t dull the like steel chain
2 passes is the most ever took on a carbide
The diamond wheel is pricey
I need to sharpen about 15more to pay for the wheel!

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+1 to this. With thick bar oil, my 241 dont want to oil an 18 inch bar correctly. But using the Stihl Woodcutter oil (orange jug), it works great. It's a lighter weight and flows like water.
 

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