Absolute nonsense. My 046 with a standard DP muffler and no porting, 28" bar and chain, ran .045" rakers all day long buried in Doug Fir being leaned on. My current set up is a ported 361 running .050" rakers in Spruce without a hitch.
MS 460 jamming in the wood
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Absolute nonsense. My 046 with a standard DP muffler and no porting, 28" bar and chain, ran .045" rakers all day long buried in Doug Fir being leaned on. My current set up is a ported 361 running .050" rakers in Spruce without a hitch.
It likely will depend on what kind of wood you are cutting. For example, Shag Bark Hickory can really slow your saw down with standard depth rakers.
treeslayer2003
Addicted to ArboristSite
nonsense? bring yer 460 over here and throw it in this wood is all i can say...........if runs that much better than the three of mine, i'll buy it off you.
It's not your wood that matters. It's the OP's wood, which is the same wood I used mine in. Hell, even in maple, I had no trouble with the set up. So, there's something else at play here.
Hell, my ported 361 prolly runs better than your 460's by the sound of it:
Nah, not for sale. Yes, those rakers are at .050 with an 8 pin rim.
old-cat
Fir Man
So you think that little MS361 is a mean saw, eh?
fin460
Ham Fisted
I do!, that is a nice purring ms361
Uh yeah. So the west coast dogs are a little longer than the east coast dogs. Show me the physics where dog length reduces power. And the angle nonsense, I need that explained too.
OP you run your rakers much lower that I would. That takes more power and can make the chain very grabby. Think about buying a new chain and keeping the rakers at Stihl's recommended depth and see if that makes a difference. If you cut with another dude then ask him to sharpen your chain for a month and see if anything changes.
Have the dealer show you how to pull the limiter caps and tune the saw. Your saw (stock!) has all the power needed for that size bar. You can add a dual port muffler cover and a Max Flow air filter once you learn to tune the saw. And of course make sure your chain is truly sharp.
Simonizer
Addicted to ArboristSite
How is it oiling? I have seen that being the issue more than once.
Good point.
tacomatrd98
ArboristSite Guru
I have to jump in on this one as well. I have 2 460's, neither of which are stock. One has the larger dawgs/spikes, ported and custom dual port muffler. Has 195psi comp, runs like a raped ape. Saw is low-ish hours. The other is stock jug/slug but has oem dual port. It is well broken in and has always been a strong runner, has the stock size spikes. The one with the dual oversize dawgs stalls the chain much easier than the other one. It is especially annoying when noodling. Cross cutting is not as big of a deal. The large spike saw cuts extremely fast, and if you hold it away from the wood can apply a lot of pressure in the cut, but as soon as those dawgs hit the wood, unless you are very gentle, the chain will stall. I haven't had the ambition to swap parts around and see what is causing it yet but will certainly report back when I do.
It almost seems like a clutch issue or a bar/chain binding issue.
This is based on hardwood cutting, not softwood like the OP but take it for what it's worth.
It almost seems like a clutch issue or a bar/chain binding issue.
This is based on hardwood cutting, not softwood like the OP but take it for what it's worth.
tacomatrd98
ArboristSite Guru
As far as oil goes, my ported saw started life as a wrap handle saw so it has an HO oiler. On the stock saw, I installed the HO oiler at about 6months old cause i got sick of burning up bars due to lack of oil. So in my case atleast, it's not a lack of oil flow.
rymancm
ArboristSite Operative
Rakers may be too low, or too much hook in the teeth, or both. Easy test - try a new chain and see if it cuts better. If so then it has to do with how you file...
tacomatrd98
ArboristSite Guru
I have swapped chains a few times, tried a loop of skip, went from 8t back down to 7t etc. it is weird. When bucking, my ported 460 will embarrass my mm'd 372 (as it should) but if i'm noodling, the 372 keeps chuggin and doesnt stall the chain where the 460 will. I'm talking the same chain swapped straight from the 372 to the 460.
treeslayer2003
Addicted to ArboristSite
my ported 660 wouldn't handle 050 in the hardwood here...........maybe DF is soft, i have no idea really. just can't imagion taking rakers that low.
Terry Syd
Addicted to ArboristSite
Going back to post #23, you can see the dawgs on the saw. Note that the lowest spike extends well out from the saw in comparison to the center spikes.
I had a set of dual spikes that had a lower spike that extended out like that. I noticed that it tend to pivot the bar INTO the wood when the saw was cutting. The further away from the centre line of the bar, the more leverage it has to pivot.
Those spikes may be good for felling where a person may want the saw to pull into the tree on a back cut, but for bucking up the tree it may create problems with bogging.
On my dawgs it was only the very bottom spike that stuck out. I was able to trim it back so that the point fell along a curve with the rest of the spikes. It helped to prevent bogging when bucking.
I had a set of dual spikes that had a lower spike that extended out like that. I noticed that it tend to pivot the bar INTO the wood when the saw was cutting. The further away from the centre line of the bar, the more leverage it has to pivot.
Those spikes may be good for felling where a person may want the saw to pull into the tree on a back cut, but for bucking up the tree it may create problems with bogging.
On my dawgs it was only the very bottom spike that stuck out. I was able to trim it back so that the point fell along a curve with the rest of the spikes. It helped to prevent bogging when bucking.
She does alright
That's in a leaning yellow cypress with a bit of a pinch at the bottom. You can see the thing get a bit grabby nearer the bottom of it. Gonna go and mill it this weekend. It's a bit harder than Douglas Fir, but close enough for comparison.
Good to see ya poking around, Simon! Another bud of mine got another one of yer 372's. He can't believe how angry it is.
It's soft, but not that soft - not like pine, but sure as hell isn't like oak to cut. It is very fibrous, and likes to be cut. The fiber is what makes the stuff so good for building. When treated, it is a very strong and long-lasting wood.
It's not your wood that matters. It's the OP's wood, which is the same wood I used mine in. Hell, even in maple, I had no trouble with the set up. So, there's something else at play here.
Hell, my ported 361 prolly runs better than your 460's by the sound of it:
Nah, not for sale. Yes, those rakers are at .050 with an 8 pin rim.
WODDAREYA BRAGGIN ABOUT THAT FLASH LILL SAW DIDNT EVEN CUT ONE ROUND OFF THAT LOG , WHAT GOODS ZAT;O))
