MS 460 port timing numbers

[Lignator]

when you make a gasket, are you spraying it with something like copper aerosol or just bonding it in place?

 

[Knobby57]

I've used the copper spray and also used hondabond with good results


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[wcorey]

try knocking that lip off the lower transfers. I've done that on other saws with this design of transfer port and had good results. just don't go too crazy. i believe it slows down the velocity of the charge as you enter the combustion chamber.

I used to do that on all of them with this style transfer but with all this talk of the importance of crank case volume I have to wonder if the trade off is worthwhile.
Also on this one the bottom lip is fairly smooth, not as pronounced as other similar ones I've done, if I take only a little off it likely won't hurt but then not gain much either.

I'll probably go ahead and advance ign timing next since it's so easy, just don't see that being the 'one thing' it needs. If the saw had been a runner when I got it would have done that soon after a bit of run time, along with a squish adj and muff mod, then run it for a while again to get a baseline. I like to have two of whatever saw I'm modding for various reasons, in this case I at least have another p&c. Also usually take a more incremental approach with first time 'significant' saws, sort of feels backwards to do it all at once the way I am...

Have a done a few larger Huskies that I'm very happy with, 394, 288, 272 I wouldn't hesitate to jump right in and put it where I want on the first go 'round.
Not many Stihls under my belt yet, was holding off until I got more of 'em, now it's more about finding the time, ambition and a solid recipe...

 

[Lignator]

agree about crank case volumes. i just eased the edge, mind had a pretty nasty lip. ground about a 3/16" wide area to clean it all up. I have an 024 that i took the lower transfers to the base. probably won't do that again if I had another jug to play with.

the timing advance made a huge difference on my ms261. I went 10 deg there. will prob try 5ish on this saw. do you need a puller to get this flywheel off? I haven't looked at it yet. I have done the sting under the wheel and tap the nut trick on other saws with success.

 

[wcorey]

I'm sure you can get the flywheel off with the hit-the-nut method but it's recessed so you'd probably want to hit on a socket on the nut, with another nut in the socket to take up the extra space.
That said they are set up like many other Stihls with a (iirc) m22 x 1.5 thread for a dedicated puller, a generic one can be had online for under $10 shipped.

Last time I needed one I couldn't find mine so made another from an old BMW oil drain plug that's the same thread...

 

[mdavlee]

I bought a puller from ebay that has 2 different sizes on each end for the stihls.

 

[Lignator]

worked out a setup to clean up the squish band and take a hair off the base. pics to follow!

 

[Lignator]

pics as promised: got the squish band cleaned up nicely! Very pleased.

 

[stihlbro]

Keep the pics coming. Nice job!

 

[redfin]

Every 1128 that I have been in so far have been tight. .01-.013" range. The last 44 I built I used a tin for sale sign I had. I sanded off the paint and I measured .01" which put me at .02" with a meteor. Nice work.

 

[Lignator]

ha, i like it. my hope is to keep the oem gasket. i am amazed at how quickly you can take material off the base with 220 paper and some oil. I need to re assemble and check squish. I think I can get to between .020 and .022 pretty easily.

i have been using moto seal with success but want to try to keep the gasket on this one.

i got lucking in that I had a piece of 2" aluminum round stock kicking around for the squish band.

 

[Lignator]

so my squish sanding efforts paid off. i ended up at .021" squish if i pull the gasket. rather than try to sand away .015" from the base of the cylinder i am just going to pull the gasket.

sometimes its good to be lucky

trying out Purple Power from the auto parts store to clean everything up in a Harbor Freight ultra sonic cleaner (with is just ok btw, not great)

 

[Lignator]

update. Ran the saw this weekend. Didn't have access to any worth while logs, everything is snowed in, only was able to cut some 8" stuff.

Saw started easy and ran well.

Cold compression is ~185psi. Squish still at .021.

I need to recheck where all my timing #'s ended up at.

Opened the 2nd exhaust port up even further.

One question: are there any small double felling dog options out there? I don't really want or need the big dogs but do like having an outer dog. Any input would be awesome.

Got a few pics of my port work that I want to get posted. This was the first cylinder I am pleased with how the exhaust polished up. I used scotch bright in the dremel and it seems to have worked well.

 

[Lignator]

squish band polished up, exhaust stock, transfers had the lip knocked off of them


exhaust roughed in. I didn't go to crazy enlarging the outlet. I might go back in and take more out.


Piston skirt trimmed on intake side. Should I remove all of it? I left the 2 edges to maintain my length to diameter ratio of the piston.


Intake roughed in. I made it quite a bit wider than stock and cleaned up all the parting lines on the casting.



Exhaust cleaned up

Inside of the exhaust. I was able to clean up the the little nicks from where I ground the plating back.

 

[Deets066]

update. Ran the saw this weekend. Didn't have access to any worth while logs, everything is snowed in, only was able to cut some 8" stuff.

Saw started easy and ran well.

Cold compression is ~185psi. Squish still at .021.

I need to recheck where all my timing #'s ended up at.

Opened the 2nd exhaust port up even further.

One question: are there any small double felling dog options out there? I don't really want or need the big dogs but do like having an outer dog. Any input would be awesome.

Got a few pics of my port work that I want to get posted. This was the first cylinder I am pleased with how the exhaust polished up. I used scotch bright in the dremel and it seems to have worked well.

I ordered a set from the dealer for my 034 super, couldn't tell ya if it work for you, but here they are

 

[chadihman]

squish band polished up, exhaust stock, transfers had the lip knocked off of them
View attachment 402110

exhaust roughed in. I didn't go to crazy enlarging the outlet. I might go back in and take more out.
View attachment 402112

Piston skirt trimmed on intake side. Should I remove all of it? I left the 2 edges to maintain my length to diameter ratio of the piston.
View attachment 402114

Intake roughed in. I made it quite a bit wider than stock and cleaned up all the parting lines on the casting.

View attachment 402115

Exhaust cleaned up
View attachment 402117
Inside of the exhaust. I was able to clean up the the little nicks from where I ground the plating back.
View attachment 402118

Looking pretty darn good. I'd say your a natural

 

[Lignator]

I ordered a set from the dealer for my 034 super, couldn't tell ya if it work for you, but here they areView attachment 402120View attachment 402122

Yeah, those look reasonable. I don't want / need the big ones, just reduced the effective bar length. I like that lowest spike on the inner dog is more substantial.

 

[Lignator]

Looking pretty darn good. I'd say your a natural

Thanks!

I need to get a right angle grinder to do a better job on transfers. I have been trying to use a disc shaped grinding stone. It just isn't cutting it.

I am a big fan of craytex for polishing, blending, smoothing

Honestly I wasn't "wowed" when I ran the saw. That's why I want to recheck timing. I never ran it stock though so I don't have a baseline.

I prob need to do the timing advance too. Just need to find a puller.

Would love to compare it to a stock saw.

 

[Deets066]

Found a better pic

 

[Lignator]

last bit of info. the saw is the ARCTIC version which is freakin awesome. I always wondered why anyone wanted these but now I know! It was in the low 20's Saturday and I was cuttings with summer weight gloves on. The grips get quite warm, almost hot, when you are on the throttle. I had no idea the rear handle and carb were also heated. very cool feature. def a bit complex but worth it.