MS 880 Given to Me

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I didn't get that from his comments.

What I got from his remarks was a "single lane" approach that was do it my way or you are stupid.

In my profession that type of "thinking" usually leads to a lack of innovation and lackluster performance.

If I wanted to do what he suggested, I wouldn't come here to ask for advice now would I?

I was hoping to get thoughtful answers (and I have gotten some, thank you to those guys!), but his answer was neither thoughtful or useful.

Just saying....
I gave solid advice. How is saying don't be dodgy and fix the thing properly bad advice?
Straight out of the gate you are tripping over dollars to pick up pennies buying a chinese cylinder and the wrong cylinder for this model saw at that lol
I was also looking at the big picture yeah the poor unsuspecting guy paying hard earned good money for this saw at the end of all this fun and games.
I won't post in your thread again with good advice the hurt feelings are already off the chart lol
 
My two bits, use red scotchbrite to clean up the jug and buy a meteor or oem piston. I had a 3120 hit my bench that ran good, I peeked at the piston and it was a bit scored, long story short the saw had an a/m top end, a few air leaks, and a bunch of clear silicone everywhere. I tore it down, redid the bearings, seals, and gaskets with oem parts, bought a new oem top end out of Canada (~$400), and put it together and sold it. Did it run okay before I started? Yes. Was it still fubared? Yes. Am I happy I did a quality repair job before I sent it on to its new owner? Also yes.

While @rogue60 was a little harsh, I'd tend to agree with him. If you can afford to half-ass something multiple times you can afford to fix it correctly once. If you can't afford to fix it correctly either save it till you can or pass it along to someone who can. I'm pretty sure the cylinder that got pulled off the 3120 I rebuilt could have been cleaned up and I would have only spent $50-$100 on a piston instead of $400 on a complete top end. But, the repair guy tossed it and put on poor performing Chinese crap before he sold the saw to an unsuspecting guy.

Lastly, @PP4218 Stihl typically does not make their p/c sets. They're either Gilardoni (Italian), Mahle (Germany w/a base in Brazil), or KolbenSchmidt (German). I believe the Chinese Stihl plant makes MS170's, MS250's, and the like, and they're still monitored by people who give a crap. The $40 deluxe p/c sets are made by 5 year olds who's bosses don't give a crap about the quality of their products provided the $ keeps rolling in. While this sounds kinda harsh, I'm just telling you the honest truth as best as I can. What you do is up to you, but I'd go for a Meteor piston personally.
 
I gave solid advice. How is saying don't be dodgy and fix the thing properly bad advice?
Straight out of the gate you are tripping over dollars to pick up pennies buying a chinese cylinder and the wrong cylinder for this model saw at that lol
I was also looking at the big picture yeah the poor unsuspecting guy paying hard earned good money for this saw at the end of all this fun and games.
I won't post in your thread again with good advice the hurt feelings are already off the chart lol
G'day R60, I reckon your advice was good but perhaps expressed in a manner that might annoy those from other cultures. Anyway it's only a 880, now if it was a nice 084 or early 066/064 or your dad's favourite 660s anything but oem would border on the criminal lol.
And some would suggest we have enough to worry about over here right now, then again, some might not
 
Does anyone know the exact differences between the 1124 141 2202 Manifold and the 1124 141 2201 Manifold for this saw and if these are interchangeable?
No the manifolds are not interchangeable. If you have the older cylinder you have to use the older manifold and if you have the newer cylinder you have to use the newer manifold. The newer manifold has a tap on the side where it is attached to the cylinder and this tap has to fit in the recess of the cylinder.
 
Well, I completed my testing and the saw passed the vacuum and pressure testing just fine.

View attachment 989650


View attachment 989648


10 minutes for each test. No changes. I rotated the crank with the pull start and observed movement on the needle, but no changes in absolute numbers. Very pleased with the results.
That’s not enough vacuum, you need 7-10 psi, which is 15-20 inHg. Then rotate the crank.
 
That’s not enough vacuum, you need 7-10 psi, which is 15-20 inHg. Then rotate the crank.
Correct, per the service manual, like I recommended to follow...

From a 200T manual I had open:
Vacuum: Operate the lever (2) until the pressure gauge (arrow) indicates a vacuum of 0.5 bar. If the vacuum reading remains constant, or rises to no more than 0.3 bar within 20 seconds, it can be assumed that the oil seals are in good condition.

Pressure: Operate the lever (2) until the pressure gauge (arrow) indicates a pressure of 0.5 bar. If this pressure remains constant for at least 20 seconds, the engine is airtight.
 
What dont reuse cylinder? These assers are all full of **** noones gona cut with the thing no matter how its built.

I personaly cleaned up my cylinder tossed a metor piston in it and sold it. Guy says he loves it. I even tried to talk him into 70cc saw.

If cylinder cleans up theres no reason to replace it. If if it doesnt then its time to find a replacement.
 
Clean it up and run it. If it's truly scored, either a Meteor or Hyway will be a fine replacement for OEM. OEM commands more money for resale, but is ridiculously priced on Stihls IMO. I've even got a strong running 044 with an el cheapo Farmertec cylinder, it was a basket case saw and wasn't worth the price of an OEM cylinder.

Cylinder porting and squish suck on the Farmertec stuff, but nothing I couldn't fix with my lathe and some carbide burrs. Meteor or Hyway are a much better choice for someone who doesn't want to/can't do any grinding and machining.
 
What dont reuse cylinder? These assers are all full of **** noones gona cut with the thing no matter how its built.

I personaly cleaned up my cylinder tossed a metor piston in it and sold it. Guy says he loves it. I even tried to talk him into 70cc saw.

If cylinder cleans up theres no reason to replace it. If if it doesnt then its time to find a replacement.
Just to be clear for the slow like you nowhere did I say don't try and clean the cylinder up.
That's fact I never said that it's made up fantasy stuff... Just like aftermarket Chinese rubbish is as good or better than OEM it's all fantasy made up rubbish 😆 lol
But yes I agree with there is a lot of assers full of **** jumping on the bandwagon without thinking or looking at the facts mouthing off making **** up, but high estrogen levels tend to do that I hear?...lol
So I hope we have cleared that up nobody told him to throw the oem cylinder without trying to clean it up.
 
This forum has all you need to know without everyone spoon feeding everything to you, use the search feature in the upper right corner. If you struggle then switch to google and try again. With saw parts you get what you pay for and when you lack the tools and knowledge to modify oem offers longevity and best performance. The best practice on scored saws is a full teardown and replace seals/gaskets/hoses/carb kit/filters and inspect cases/bearings/crank/wrist pin/brake to do the job once and use it for a decade instead of fiddling around being cheap and getting frustrated.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top