MS200T fuel line

[deanbrown]

I'm a little confused here, the pic here shows the fuel line I just pulled out of my MS200T, but as far as I can tell its the wrong one. Here's what happened - I'd not used it in years, and now the grommet section popped out of the fuel tank wall and I managed to poor gas all over the table before I noticed. I've tried everything to re-seat the grommet, but whatever I do, the slighted touch and it pops right out again.

As a disclaimer, it's possible I replaced the line with the wrong one something like 10 years ago, but honestly I don't remember now. It looks like a 1128-358-7701, and I think I need the 7705 as it's an early version of the ms200t, like 20 years old.

If anyone has advice on this I could use the guidance.

 

[stihltech]

1129 358 7705- 1st version fuel line.

 

[lone wolf]

I'm a little confused here, the pic here shows the fuel line I just pulled out of my MS200T, but as far as I can tell its the wrong one. Here's what happened - I'd not used it in years, and now the grommet section popped out of the fuel tank wall and I managed to poor gas all over the table before I noticed. I've tried everything to re-seat the grommet, but whatever I do, the slighted touch and it pops right out again.

As a disclaimer, it's possible I replaced the line with the wrong one something like 10 years ago, but honestly I don't remember now. It looks like a 1128-358-7701, and I think I need the 7705 as it's an early version of the ms200t, like 20 years old.

If anyone has advice on this I could use the guidance.

BTW, what happened with the other saw you were working on ?

 

[deanbrown]

BTW, what happened with the other saw you were working on ?

About to tackle it... Hopefully this weekend. Removing the aluminum crud.

 

[lone wolf]

About to tackle it... Hopefully this weekend. Removing the aluminum crud.

Don't go too crazy on that .

 

[deanbrown]

I successfully replaced the old fuel line on this MS200T with the new one and no fuel leaks now.

When I run the saw, it seems to bog down when I blip the throttle. If I gradually increase speed it will get up to full rpms.

When hot it seems to stall quite easily, and then won’t start till it’s cooled off a little. What would be my next thing to check now? It has fresh fuel and a new fuel filter and clean air filter. I have the H and L adjusted as indicated - 3/4 anti clockwise in the H and 1 full turn on the L.

 

[lone wolf]

I successfully replaced the old fuel line on this MS200T with the new one and no fuel leaks now.

When I run the saw, it seems to bog down when I blip the throttle. If I gradually increase speed it will get up to full rpms.

When hot it seems to stall quite easily, and then won’t start till it’s cooled off a little. What would be my next thing to check now? It has fresh fuel and a new fuel filter and clean air filter. I have the H and L adjusted as indicated - 3/4 anti clockwise in the H and 1 full turn on the L.

Does the H that you have 3/4 turn out have the plastic limiter cap on it?
Also, the carb could have an air leak in the accelerator pump area.
Last but not least, the carb could have a brittle pump or diaphragm from ethanol gas.
And I have to ask by chance did you forget to put the fuel filter on ?

 

[deanbrown]

The H has some kind of plastic limiter - I turns almost 3/4 and then seems to click over a bump and then settle on its final position, and cannot go any further.

Yes, gas filter is in place.

 

[lone wolf]

The H has some kind of plastic limiter - I turns almost 3/4 and then seems to click over a bump and then settle on its final position, and cannot go any further.

Yes, gas filter is in place.

Take the carb off, cut the limiter off the H with a diagonal cutter take the H and L out of the carb then take the carb apart and spray carb clean through it no air. The H gets turned to 1 turn out after you remove the limiter. Also pull the screen out of the muffler and see if it is restricted. The diaphragm and fuel pump in the carb should be replaced if they are distorted or stiff.

 

[grizz55chev]

The H has some kind of plastic limiter - I turns almost 3/4 and then seems to click over a bump and then settle on its final position, and cannot go any further.

Yes, gas filter is in place.

Keep following LW's advice, he'll get you through this, leave no detail unchecked!

 

[deanbrown]

so I did everything LW stated. All the parts looked new and the diaphragm and FP looked great. I’ve got H turned out about 7/8 now.

Started her up and she runs like a champ. I only did a handful of cuts but it’s waaaay better now. Thank you all.

 

[lone wolf]

so I did everything LW stated. All the parts looked new and the diaphragm and FP looked great. I’ve got H turned out about 7/8 now.

Started her up and she runs like a champ. I only did a handful of cuts but it’s waaaay better now. Thank you all.

Turn the H to 1 out, or you might cook the motor.

 

[deanbrown]

Why is it locked to 3/4 out of the factory?

 

[SteveSr]

Why is it locked to 3/4 out of the factory?

Limiter caps limit rotation to 270 degrees so an offset is added before the limiter is pressed home. Stihl calls this the carburetor "base setting". You may find this "offset" number in the repair manual.

 

[deanbrown]

I'm curious here - the repair manual H limiter section is: 1 turn out from seated, and then push whatever new limiter on. Doesn't this mean that whatever adjustment you make, it can only go clockwise from this 1 full out position - or only more and more lean. Is this right or am I missing something? What if we want to err on the side of caution and got richer, you know, so as not to melt down the engine?

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

I'm curious here - the repair manual H limiter section is: 1 turn out from seated, and then push whatever new limiter on. Doesn't this mean that whatever adjustment you make, it can only go clockwise from this 1 full out position - or only more and more lean. Is this right or am I missing something? What if we want to err on the side of caution and got richer, you know, so as not to melt down the engine?

Limiters limit travel- BOTH ways- you cannot screw in till lightly seated with limited screws- you can only go in (and out) till you hit the limiter stops in what is a predetermined "safe" arc.
Removing the limiter cap takes you back to old school rules and if I were you, Id listen to experience (Mr Wolf has PLENTY) and set to 1 full turn out from lightly seated, or risk being a tad lean and ruining a good saw.