Ms201t chain

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Bigeclipse

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all,
I purchased a used ms201t last year. I wanted to replace the chain on it but the paint on the bar that states what i need is missing. I believe it is the factory bar from when it was purchased. Does anyone know what chain they think i need? Thanks!
 
Look closely at the bar just in front of the bar studs, if it is Stihl, it will be faintly etched in there.
I did check and that is the part that has worn off. It was painted on, not etched in the metal.
 
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Odds are the chain is 3/8" lopro and .050 gauge. If so, it's likely 44 DL for a 12" bar, 50 DL for a 14" bar, and 55 DL for a 16" bar.
I’m pretty sure it is a 14” bar. I’ll have to measure later. If that is the case I have found some 3/8 050 50dl chains but none of them say Lopro. Is that a problem?
 
Stihl chain won't say lopro as that is trademarked by someone else. 50 is a Stihl size brand x generally uses 52. If it fits the nose sprocket you will be fine.

For me a genuine Stihl bar for that saw (3005 at the beginning of the part number) will still have the information readable by the time for a new bar. Kind of unlikely the bar slot for the drive links is still in good shape if what you assume in post 1 is true.
If you did not get the owners manual with the saw one can be downloaded from the Stihl website.
 
Stihl chain won't say lopro as that is trademarked by someone else. 50 is a Stihl size brand x generally uses 52. If it fits the nose sprocket you will be fine.

For me a genuine Stihl bar for that saw (3005 at the beginning of the part number) will still have the information readable by the time for a new bar. Kind of unlikely the bar slot for the drive links is still in good shape if what you assume in post 1 is true.
If you did not get the owners manual with the saw one can be downloaded from the Stihl website.
Thanks for the info. Any thoughts on what bar/chain combo I should go for?
 
I like the smaller picco (stihl's 3/8lp) 61pmm3 in the 44 drive link size, .043 drive links. It is more like surgery, not the most cost effective but quite safe.

I am pretty sure you can get an 8 tooth 1/4 pitch set up which I would most likey experiment with if the saw was mine.
 
Old school,

Remove the chain and count the number of drive links. No guessing required. If you're replacing the chain, old one has to come off anyway.

As it's a MS201T bar should be 3/8 Picco .050 gauge unless someone did something strange. Use calipers or a simple feeler gauge to confirm.

Suggest getting Stihl 63PS-50dl for a chain, (14 inch bar). If you want a chain that will crosscut as fast, but less likely to kick back, Stihl 63PS3-50dl.

Take Care
 
DITTO.
My first concern is that the OP said he bought it used.....we dont know if the previous owner pinched the bar or dropped it from a tree and bent it. Telling the op what to get is if we KNOW what bar he has. Some dopey ass could of put a modified crazy ass bar off a poulan because it worked for him.
I recommend taking the entire setup to a knowledgeable Stihl dealer or saw shop and have him tell you what you have and then decide what you need. Unless the OP can show pictures of the etched area where the info is we are shooting in the dark. If there is NO etching id bet that is NOT an OEM bar.
Old school,

Remove the chain and count the number of drive links. No guessing required. If you're replacing the chain, old one has to come off anyway.

As it's a MS201T bar should be 3/8 Picco .050 gauge unless someone did something strange. Use calipers or a simple feeler gauge to confirm.

Suggest getting Stihl 63PS-50dl for a chain, (14 inch bar). If you want a chain that will crosscut as fast, but less likely to kick back, Stihl 63PS3-50dl.

Take Care
 
DITTO.
My first concern is that the OP said he bought it used.....we dont know if the previous owner pinched the bar or dropped it from a tree and bent it. Telling the op what to get is if we KNOW what bar he has. Some dopey ass could of put a modified crazy ass bar off a poulan because it worked for him.
I recommend taking the entire setup to a knowledgeable Stihl dealer or saw shop and have him tell you what you have and then decide what you need. Unless the OP can show pictures of the etched area where the info is we are shooting in the dark. If there is NO etching id bet that is NOT an OEM bar.
I’ll post pics later if I can
 

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