Stihl User
ArboristSite Operative
Anybody have a MS261 and swapped out the .325 Rim for 3/8 Rim?
Was it worth it??? Pros / Cons
Was it worth it??? Pros / Cons
MS261 3/8 Rim
- Thread starter Stihl User
- Start date
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I thought about it when I bought mine so I could run existing 3/8" chains with it. I decided to keep a 16" bar on this and run .325 while other saws have 18" and 3/8". I don't think there is any other advantage to making the swap on a saw this size... Nor do I think it is a small enough saw that it would hurt to go to 3/8.
Stihl User
ArboristSite Operative
For the life of me, i do not understand why Stihl uses .063 for the B&C on my MS261.
Do i need to change the Rim if i buy a 325/.050 B&C ???
My Echo 501p runs 325/.050 and i want to be able to use same chain setup for both saws.
My options are either 325/050 or i switch to 3/8 .050 so that i only have two sets of chains instead of three(.063).
As i have MS460 running 3/8 .050
I run a 3/8 20” on my 261CM and it cuts great but it was ported by MMWS.
I cut mostly conifers, some cedar.
I cut mostly conifers, some cedar.
Stihl User
ArboristSite Operative
i did the muff mod on my 261 and it really was a big performance boost
dstrick
ArboristSite Member
I run a 3/8/.050 chain on a 20” bar on my MS261cm and it’s fine. Dealer switched rim drive, bar and chain. Credited the .325/.050 parts when I bought it. It would be set up with 3/8 if stihl still supplied regionaly specific models and setups.
I have noodled 18” long rounds of big leaf maple and fir with no problem. Cuts like a mini version of the 462.
Stihl User
ArboristSite Operative
Looks good - i am going to change over to 3/8 .
Stihl User
ArboristSite Operative
Did you go OEM or aftermarket on the drum/sprocket?
On this part(s) is aftermarket OK?
dstrick
ArboristSite Member
Dealer installed all OEM.
I purchased my MS261CM from the local dealer with an OEM 3/8 sproket, 20" .050 bar P/N 3003 008 8921 and a 33RD3 72 carbide chain. I also converted my MS290 to 3/8 20" .050 using Oregon parts. I have since started using the Oregon 20" VersaCut bar, trying to save weight. I went to 3/8 to make my bars/chains compatible with my 038 and 041 saws. I have never run any of the saws with the .325 .063 setup, so I have nothing to compare it to. I wanted the ability to swap parts around and have never regretted it. The MS261 is pretty much the only saw I use now.
Stihl User
ArboristSite Operative
Thank you for your input and which is the same mindset i have decided on.
i just ordered a new drum/rim/bearing to convert over.
i already have a new 20" 3/8 B&C waiting to go on.
My 261 is muff modded so i know it has the power for 20" 3/8 but i was hesitant and needed to hear from you guys who have this setup - thanks
i just ordered a new drum/rim/bearing to convert over.
i already have a new 20" 3/8 B&C waiting to go on.
My 261 is muff modded so i know it has the power for 20" 3/8 but i was hesitant and needed to hear from you guys who have this setup - thanks
dstrick
ArboristSite Member
You’re welcome. Happy to share my setup. Just consider what you’re trying to do and what you’ll be cutting. The saw seems to be a real good one.
Stihl User
ArboristSite Operative
i see MS462 on your profile = i do not have one but have cut with one = love the power & lightweight
Being i am Mr. PoorMan i have not yet been able to justify the $1200 +Tax for one saw.
Being i have a chainsaw addiction i did buy a CS-7310P and a Makita EA7900P
The 7310 has only been started and left to idle each time - no cuts yet.
The 7900 is stihl(pun here) in it's box.
i have two low hour 460's which i am about to sell one of them to generate funds towards the 462
My concern is the CM system on it - what do think......
dstrick
ArboristSite Member
No issues for me.
Sierra_rider
Piss revver
At work, I converted our 261s to 3/8 .050 w/ 20" bars...same pitch/gauge that I run on my personal 550xp. Advantage is that we run 3/8 .050 on all our saws...also the 3/8 7 pin sprocket is a larger diameter than the .325 7 pin, so faster chain speed. Our 261s are used exclusively for brushing/cutting small diameter stuff, so added reach and chain speed are the most important factors on those saw.
ihookem
ArboristSite Operative
Funny you bring this up. I have a Stihl 026 with the .325 . It cuts just fine. It does have an air leak according to the stihl dealer and $ 250 to fix it . I decided to take the $250 for an Echo 501p. It was used but only 2 tanks of gas through . The original owner traded his Husky 550Xp for the Echo. Two weeks later he wants his Husky back. So for $430 out the door I had the ECHO 501p under warranty. The original owner had a 3/8 20" bar put on it. I used it today and it seems about the same if both saws are sharp. The 501 needs more RPM or it will bog down , the 026 has more torque, but it might be cause of the .325 chain, not sure . However, they would likely be a dead even in a race. I dont think the 501P is the saw the Stihl 261 is though, since most say the 261 is superior to the 026. Just saying, not sure myself though.
