MS290 20" bar

[outdoortype]

You are the only one who has ever stated that, on any of the 8 or so saw forums that I follow.........

...are you confusing the RSC with the RSC3?????

Now there are 2. The 3/8 RS just seems to cut faster in dead oak than RSC, which is smoother and still an excellent chain.

No confusion, he stated correctly that RSC replaced RS and both were yellow labeled chains and RSC3 is a green labeled chain.

 

[peter399]

I don't know how to sharpen a chain...

Seriously... you just don't get it. I felled a Hemlock yesterday that was 35" at the stump using an 044 with a 32" bar. When it was on the ground I walked the spar limbin' as I went... with the same saw and bar combo. No bendin' over, no switchin saws or bars... no sweat.

You guys can yak about your shorter bars and 7 pin 8 pin 9 pin sprocket for different speeds while you are cuttin' your pecker-poles... It don't come in to play over here.

Gary

What I mean was, seriously now ... A 260 with 24" bar must be soooooooooo slow, that mean chain speed, that you must be able to sharpen it while cutting. A 35" tree isn't that huge, we have them too occasionally and I bring them easily down with 18". Who has said anything about changing sprocket or b&c ? Just have the saw that you need for the work. I also don't doubt the size of your forearms but I can hardly see that the are thicker than 6-8" . Ever tried a 346XP ? You would be done with limbing before you have dragged that 044 up the spar.

 

[Wood Hick]

Thanks for the vindication Outdoortype! I was beginning to wonder if I really learned anything in 20 some odd years of watching those chains go around and around! ( I did sniff alot of exhaust ) It really is a moot point, and I am not a nit-picker, I just don't like to see a new guy with legit questions get steered wrong.

 

[GASoline71]

It's a waste of time and effort running over length bars on chainsaws, an 029 doesn't have the grunt to push 20" bars and chains, if a 20" bar is NEEDED, then ya need a gruntier saw to match it, the amount of people on this site who seem to insist on mis-matching bar length to saw power - well it's ridiculous! Methinks it's some type of deep-seated penis length insecurity syndrome or something. Sure, the chain still cuts with over length bars(barely) - but what's the point? Why would anyone deliberately de-power their chainsaws?

You need to read some of the Pacific Northwest threads on here... You don't get it.

What I mean was, seriously now ... A 260 with 24" bar must be soooooooooo slow, that mean chain speed, that you must be able to sharpen it while cutting. A 35" tree isn't that huge, we have them too occasionally and I bring them easily down with 18". Who has said anything about changing sprocket or b&c ? Just have the saw that you need for the work. I also don't doubt the size of your forearms but I can hardly see that the are thicker than 6-8" . Ever tried a 346XP ? You would be done with limbing before you have dragged that 044 up the spar.

Peter... When I am standin' on a steep sidehill... 50 yards down from the road, and I drop a tree... the last thing I am worried about is goin' back to the truck and gettin' a "smaller" saw for limbing. Once you have walked a huge spar limbing it as you go... you will understand this more. Until then... sorry but runnin' dinky bars out here on powerheads just ain't gonna happen.

I guess I will never fathom the reason to have dinky "limbing" saws around when I'm felling trees.

Gary

 

[pgg]

You need to read some of the Pacific Northwest threads on here... You don't get it.



Peter... When I am standin' on a steep sidehill... 50 yards down from the road, and I drop a tree... the last thing I am worried about is goin' back to the truck and gettin' a "smaller" saw for limbing. Once you have walked a huge spar limbing it as you go... you will understand this more. Until then... sorry but runnin' dinky bars out here on powerheads just ain't gonna happen.

I guess I will never fathom the reason to have dinky "limbing" saws around when I'm felling trees.

Gary

Big difference between powerful saws with long bars and weaker saws mismatched with long bars, dunno what all this 'PNW' stuff means, a tree's a tree aint it? If you're workin' big stuff you need long bars and grunty saws, so what's different?

 

[GASoline71]

Big difference between powerful saws with long bars and weaker saws mismatched with long bars, dunno what all this 'PNW' stuff means, a tree's a tree aint it? If you're workin' big stuff you need long bars and grunty saws, so what's different?

I ain't tellin' a guy to throw a 28" bar on a MS250. However... the situation here is more the norm where a powerhead that some would deem too small to spin a longer bar is very common.

A lot of people that are not from ehre I am think that an 044 can't handle a 32" bar, and that is should have nothin' bigger than a 20" bar on it. 044's pull 28", 30", and 32" bars out here all the time.

If I was in hardwoods all the time... I would prolly rethink that and run a shorter bar on the 044. Then I would go to a bigger saw for the power needed. Depends on the tree, the area, and the situation.

Gary

 

[pgg]

I ain't tellin' a guy to throw a 28" bar on a MS250. However... the situation here is more the norm where a powerhead that some would deem too small to spin a longer bar is very common.

A lot of people that are not from ehre I am think that an 044 can't handle a 32" bar, and that is should have nothin' bigger than a 20" bar on it. 044's pull 28", 30", and 32" bars out here all the time.

If I was in hardwoods all the time... I would prolly rethink that and run a shorter bar on the 044. Then I would go to a bigger saw for the power needed. Depends on the tree, the area, and the situation.

Gary

Yeah similar, when tired and worn out like me you eventually find the lightest most maneuverable saw ya can handle will do the job with least effort every day, so long as the saw has a bit of grunt, but sayin' that, you still need an uncomfortably heavy saw when stuck in big stuff for any length of time, when you travel light like me you're on the lower limit of horsepower as is without adding longer bars and chains

 

[2000ssm6]

Big difference between powerful saws with long bars and weaker saws mismatched with long bars, dunno what all this 'PNW' stuff means, a tree's a tree aint it? If you're workin' big stuff you need long bars and grunty saws, so what's different?

My 029 pulled a 20" with no problem, if a saw is not "forced" to cut I think long bars are ok.

Yep my 440 pulls a 32" gooooood too

 

[GASoline71]

Yeah similar, when tired and worn out like me you eventually find the lightest most maneuverable saw ya can handle will do the job with least effort every day, so long as the saw has a bit of grunt, but sayin' that, you still need an uncomfortably heavy saw when stuck in big stuff for any length of time, when you travel light like me you're on the lower limit of horsepower as is without adding longer bars and chains

yup... good post. Our points differ slightly... but the end result is the same.

Gary

 

[pgg]

My 029 pulled a 20" with no problem, if a saw is not "forced" to cut I think long bars are ok.

Yep my 440 pulls a 32" gooooood too

Yep, but that 440 pulls slower, runs hotter, strains the motor more and the guys on 660's are droppin' 3 trees to your 1 because that 32" bar is for 3 foot diameter trees right?

 

[2000ssm6]

wat what

Yep, but that 440 pulls slower, runs hotter, strains the motor more and the guys on 660's are droppin' 3 trees to your 1 because that 32" bar is for 3 foot diameter trees right?

I would say it pulls slower than a 660. Sure it may run a little hot but not much Straining the motor? It will be drinking more fuel but not a strain

I don't break out the 32" much but it sure helps out when the 25" is too short. A 32" b&c is cheaper than a 660 when you don't really need one but damn I sure would like to have the king 660

 

[Cedarkerf]

You need to read some of the Pacific Northwest threads on here... You don't get it.



Peter... When I am standin' on a steep sidehill... 50 yards down from the road, and I drop a tree... the last thing I am worried about is goin' back to the truck and gettin' a "smaller" saw for limbing. Once you have walked a huge spar limbing it as you go... you will understand this more. Until then... sorry but runnin' dinky bars out here on powerheads just ain't gonna happen.

I guess I will never fathom the reason to have dinky "limbing" saws around when I'm felling trees.

Gary

Using some of these guys Ideas you would have to use a 250cc bike saw to run bars over 36" 880 just to small for anything over 36"
Hey Gary thinkin of tradin my 066 for a ms 200rear handle be ny do everything saw. I ll put a long bar on it 14".
Just wierd I guess I drag 044 or 066 with long bars in the brush and hills don't bother with compression release to start and seem to be able to walk back to the truck when I am done. Maybe its cause I take 1 saw instead of a felling saw a small bucking saw 30cc a big bucking saw 40cc a limbing saw an extra small saw I would get to tired runnin up and down the hill