MS290 vs 2" knot

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Timber Jim

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Hello everyone ! Trying to figure out what happen. Cutting through a 12" diameter log w my 18" MS290. I come across a knot, she bogs a bit, gets through it, stalls and would not re -start. Couldn't even pull the cord. The only time cord was operable when the Break was off. No sense taking it apart under warranty (6 weeks old, about 1/8 of a cord on it). Dearler says clutch and break are fried. Sounds like Break may have been partially engaged. Can't see that happening but must have . Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Im an ASE Master Tech and looking at the schematics of this saw the break holding doesn't sell to me . A dull chain is what dealer is saying. (you know I ain't buying that on a 6 week old machine) .:confused:
 
Hard to say without looking at it.

But you say that you can pull the cord with the "brake" off, well yhen pull the sprocket off and look at it!!!!!!
 
I dunno, but the saws age has nothing to do with how dull the chain is. Certainly takes less than 6 weeks to dull it. About 5 weeks, 6 days, 23 hours, 59 minutes less to make it useless. :)
 
Have you got any pictures of the clutch with the cover off? That would help a bunch diagnose your problem. Saws heat up real fast if the brake is on.
 
Have you got any pictures of the clutch with the cover off? That would help a bunch diagnose your problem. Saws heat up real fast if the brake is on.

They also heat up real bad when the dealer gives you a .325 sprocket for your 3/8 chain and you don't know the difference. Happened to me and I wrecked my engine. 029 super. Told me they don't make 029 with a 3/8 sprocket when I returned it. I beg to differ
 
They also heat up real bad when the dealer gives you a .325 sprocket for your 3/8 chain and you don't know the difference. Happened to me and I wrecked my engine. 029 super. Told me they don't make 029 with a 3/8 sprocket when I returned it. I beg to differ

Saw with dealer but had him tear it down in front of me. Clutch and break were smoked. Out side of cover had burn marks on it. Needle bearing melted together. I have to believe that this thing was on fire and I didn't see it while it was cutting the log. I 'm trying to figure out ( if thats what caused it ) how break was partially engaged.
 
Saw with dealer but had him tear it down in front of me. Clutch and break were smoked. Out side of cover had burn marks on it. Needle bearing melted together. I have to believe that this thing was on fire and I didn't see it while it was cutting the log. I 'm trying to figure out ( if thats what caused it ) how break was partially engaged.

Hate to say it, but from your description, the brake must have somehow engaged in the cut. Did the saw ever "jump"? Doesn't take long to "smoke em". Couldn't tell you how many times people have set a brand new saw down idling with the brake on. Only to find it "on fire" in a minute or two at idle.
 
Saw with dealer but had him tear it down in front of me. Clutch and break were smoked. Out side of cover had burn marks on it. Needle bearing melted together. I have to believe that this thing was on fire and I didn't see it while it was cutting the log. I 'm trying to figure out ( if thats what caused it ) how break was partially engaged.

Hey Bushmans your onto something! Have to check out the chain when I pickup the saw.
After I sharpen this chain up thinking about getting the Carbide chain . Ever use one?
 
Hate to say it, but from your description, the brake must have somehow engaged in the cut. Did the saw ever "jump"? Doesn't take long to "smoke em". Couldn't tell you how many times people have set a brand new saw down idling with the brake on. Only to find it "on fire" in a minute or two at idle.

Owned enough of these puppies to that that danger. This was a knot that just put a strain on the machine for about say five ...whole ...seconds then cleared and kept cutting.
Saw never jumped just bogged for those five seconds. Wasn't long enough for me to have to lift it off of cut to see what was wrong before she returned to normal.
 
Carbide chain isn't very useful for normal sawing. Unless you plan on cutting some roots or very dirty wood stick to the classic chain. :)
 
Hate to say it, but from your description, the brake must have somehow engaged in the cut. Did the saw ever "jump"? Doesn't take long to "smoke em". Couldn't tell you how many times people have set a brand new saw down idling with the brake on. Only to find it "on fire" in a minute or two at idle.

Dont think he will warranty this if he does I will buy carbide chain from them. If not he doesn't get repair work I will get parts and fix it myself. Got the repair manual ... what the hell I rebuild engines this is walk in the park.
 
The only time cord was operable when the *brake* was off.

That would make perfect sense since the needle bearing inside the clutch bell is welded together from overheating. Now everything is linked as one solid assembly without any 'freewheeling' ability.

Dealer says clutch and *brake* are fried. Sounds like *brake* may have been partially engaged.

Ya don't really see a brake 'partially' engaged. Pretty much either on or off. And from the damage that was done, there's no doubt the brake was engaged.

Im an ASE Master Tech and looking at the schematics of this saw the *brake* holding doesn't sell to me.

For some reason, the brake was engaged. That could be either when kickback caused engagement or if you accidentally moved it to the engaged position, thinking it was the disengaged position. It can happen. How come the brake holding doesn't sell to you? We can better explain it if needed.

A dull chain is what dealer is saying. (you know I ain't buying that on a 6 week old machine)

Like someone said above, it takes 1 second to dull a chain if the conditions are right. There could have been a hidden nail or bullet or piece of fencing lodged in the middle of a tree. That could happen to a brand new chain. And even if you didn't hit any metal, some guys here will cut up 20 cords of wood in 6 weeks. That'll dull a chain. I had a coworker buy a brand new 290, cut up one downed tree with it, and then complain it wasn't cutting fast any more. I looked at the (obviously rocked) chain and asked him if he's using a log peavy or something similar to elevate the log while bucking it. He said, "No I just cut a little bit into the dirt until the saw is all the way through the wood." The saw had a total of one tank of fuel through it before the chain was shot.

But I still don't understand why the dealer would say a dull chain would cause the brake to engage while cutting, causing your clutch to overheat. :confused:
 
Like someone said above, it takes 1 second to dull a chain if the conditions are right. There could have been a hidden nail or bullet or piece of fencing lodged in the middle of a tree. That could happen to a brand new chain. And even if you didn't hit any metal, some guys here will cut up 20 cords of wood in 6 weeks. That'll dull a chain. I had a coworker buy a brand new 290, cut up one downed tree with it, and then complain it wasn't cutting fast any more. I looked at the (obviously rocked) chain and asked him if he's using a log peavy or something similar to elevate the log while bucking it. He said, "No I just cut a little bit into the dirt until the saw is all the way through the wood." The saw had a total of one tank of fuel through it before the chain was shot.
LOL - I started a saw on a rock a week or two ago! There was a small stone under a leaf, and when the engine caught on high idle the (freshly sharpened) chain spun the leaf out and there was a nice stripe down the middle of the stone. That was about the quickest chain dulling I've had!
 

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