MS361 vs. 346XP NE - can 50 ccs match 60 ccs?

[Log Hogger]

I'm finally getting back to chainsaws after a slipped cervical disc, with the funds for a new saw. Currently I've got a Husqvarna 445 and a Stihl 066. The combo worked well enough before my neck problems, but the 066 is just too damn heavy for me now. First, my needs:

-Most of the timber I'll be cutting is dead ash up to 28", with 70% of it being under 18".
-The saw must be lightweight.

The candidate saws, and my reasoning:

MS361: Good power to weight ratio, plenty of power. Main negative is I'd have to buy new chains and bars for it.

346 XP: Lightweight. I could use the bars and chains I already have for my 445, which would save me hundreds of dollars.

Here's my question: If I opted for the 346 XP, I'd definitely port it, but how much modification would be required for it to meet my needs? Would a muff mod, widening the exhaust/intake ports, unlimited coil result in a saw that could bury the bar in dead hardwood? Or would I also need to mill down the cylinder and piston to boost compression? Or is it impossible for a "woods port" 346 XP to do what I need? If even a ported 346 XP is going to struggle with dead ash, then I'd rather use a heavier saw that I don't have to hold for so long.

Of course I could also mod the 361, but since I need a light saw, I'm most interested in what a woods ported 346 XP can do.

Another option is the 560 XP. But I've been seeing price estimates of almost $900 for this vaporware saw. I could probably afford it, but if it's practical to mod a used 346 XP, not only would I saw a mountain of cash, but I'd get to run a saw that I'd modded myself. I guess that appeals to me more than a new saw where the warranty keeps me from even opening up the muffler.

Thanks for any suggestions - and I'm not dead set on these two saws. As for the inevitable calls for a 372XP, I'm thinking that's a bit heavy for me with my neck problems, but if it's the smallest saw that will do the job, I could be convinced

 

[jus2fat]

The big question is WHO is gonna do the porting and mods..??
If the answer is YOU...then you might be happy with the 346.
If you're gonna send it out and paying $250 or so for the work...
That a lot of $$ and maybe you'll be happy and maybe not..??
An extra bar and a couple chains shouldn't be "hundreds of $$"

I...myself...would buy the MS362.
(Stihl doesn't make the MS361 anymore and none on dealers shelves)

J2F

 

[o8f150]

both are good saws but the 361,,if you can find one,,, is 2 pounds lighter then the 346,, the 346xp fully loaded is 15 pounds,, i know that cause i was at wiggs house 1 evening and we put it on the scale

 

[mountainlake]

both are good saws but the 361,,if you can find one,,, is 2 pounds lighter then the 346,, the 346xp fully loaded is 15 pounds,, i know that cause i was at wiggs house 1 evening and we put it on the scale

Don't you mean the 346 is 2# lighter than the 361, I'd sure get the 346 just for the wieght then have it ported. Steve

 

[Storm56]

I do not have a 361, but do have a 360 Pro and a 346 XP. Both have 20 inch bars. I did not weigh them but can tell you FOR SURE that the 346 is lighter than the 360. 2 pounds sounds about right, meaning the 346 is 2 pounds lighter than the 360.

If most of your stuff is under 18 inches with a few over I think you would be happier with the 346. They are pretty snappy right out of the box and some tuning and porting will only make it better. 346 is probably almost 2 bills less than the 362 in coin also. I bought a brand 346 from a dealer this spring for $450 OTD. Pretty sure the 362 will push $650 if not more.

For my money and the back issues I would take the 346 hands down.

 

[nmurph]

both are good saws but the 361,,if you can find one,,, is 2 pounds lighter then the 346,, the 346xp fully loaded is 15 pounds,, i know that cause i was at wiggs house 1 evening and we put it on the scale

Scott, the 346 is over 1.25lbs lighter than a 361, PHO, which is the only meaningful way to weigh.

A MM 346 is pretty even with a stock 361. Ported by the right person it is close to a 70cc saw.

 

[JustinM]

Is the 066 too big/too heavy to use for any jobs now (because of your injury)? Or do you simply want to offset the weight for most jobs?

If you're used to using an 066 & now dropping to either a 346 or a 361 you're going to see a major drop in power.

I would think a better option would be to find a light, nimble 70cc (440/441, probably best fits the bill) and then continue to use your 445 for smaller stuff. That would give you a 45cc and 70cc 1-2 punch. I would think that a 45cc and 50cc (opting for the 346) would be somewhat redundant (albeit the 346 is a much better saw than the 445).

Personally, my vote would be to get an 044/440/441 and outfit it with a few bars - maybe 18", 20" and 24" - hopefully you have a few of those from your 066 and you can simply add 1 more - wait for a baileys Bar closeout maybe.

Any of the stihls mentioned (441, 361 etc) will use the same bars as your 066 - or do you only have very long ones for it?

 

[Justsaws]

346, see if you can find one somewhere to flip one around and handle it before you purchase one. There are a lot of days when the smaller saws pull at my neck more than the bigger ones simply because of the handle spacing. Might not be a big deal for you but something to keep in mind.

If the front handle was taller and the gas tank about 2" longer I would buy one myself.

 

[o8f150]

Scott, the 346 is over 1.25lbs lighter than a 361, PHO, which is the only meaningful way to weigh.

A MM 346 is pretty even with a stock 361. Ported by the right person it is close to a 70cc saw.

ok,, i must be having a brain another fart

 

[o8f150]

i was thinking of something else,, i stand corrected,,,, the 346xp was just a tad over 15pds fully loaded,, so that puts the 361 at about 16,, least it should,,, i need to weight the 361 with a 16"b/c

 

[Log Hogger]

Is the 066 too big/too heavy to use for any jobs now (because of your injury)? Or do you simply want to offset the weight for most jobs?

I didn't make it very clear, but the 066 is for a logosol. I used to use it when I had some big trunks to buck, but I can't be lugging that thing around anymore. Plus, besides milling, the 066 was way overpowered for anything I cut with it. Although I can't say it wasn't fun...

I would think a better option would be to find a light, nimble 70cc (440/441, probably best fits the bill) and then continue to use your 445 for smaller stuff. That would give you a 45cc and 70cc 1-2 punch. I would think that a 45cc and 50cc (opting for the 346) would be somewhat redundant (albeit the 346 is a much better saw than the 445).

This is a possibility, but I'd be using the 70cc saw a great deal. The 445 isn't so good on dead hardwood over 10" diameter, so it would come down to limbing with the 445. If a 346 XP, with some port work, still wouldn't be enough for those 28" ash trunks, then the 70cc saw with my 445 might be the way to go. I understand that weight isn't everything - if a lighter saw takes twice as long to buck up a trunk, I figure that's going to be worse for my back than the 70cc saw.

 

[SawTroll]

Saws that are to be weighted for comparison should be totally empty and totally clean PHO - everything else introduce variables......

....and the 346xp should of course not be an e-tech (the cat muffler adds weight)!

About the work described, I would want a MS361 (not 362), or wait for the 560xp.

A US bought 361 will need a muffler mod, to perform like the model was meant to do.

 

[Log Hogger]

Scott, the 346 is over 1.25lbs lighter than a 361, PHO, which is the only meaningful way to weigh.

A MM 346 is pretty even with a stock 361. Ported by the right person it is close to a 70cc saw.

Whoa, seriously? That ****** rocks! That's something new to consider. I was going to do the mods myself, but if someone with experience could bring it close to a 70cc saw...hmmm. I do have access to a mill, so I could shave down the cylinder and piston, and I seem to remember a thread where Brad explained doing that in addition to port work on a 346. But it would require a lot incremental mods and testing if I did it, whereas if I paid someone to do it, I'd be cutting with it sooner.

Would such a modded 346 still be considered a "woods port", in other words, would it be practical and reliable for cutting firewood?

 

[CentaurG2]

I have a 346xp (both old and new addition) a ms361 and a dolmar 5100. All stockers. Dead ash 18” bar is no problem for any of these saws. Best of the lot for bucking is the dolmar 5100. The screamin’ demon is an impressive saw. Mine is almost as powerful as the ms361 for almost ½ the cost. Great saw. Everyone who runs it loves it. The husky 346xp is a great limbing saw. Light and agile, it is a joy to use. The ms316…eh, when it runs, it cuts wood. Bulky and awkward, it cuts just like a stihl. Nothing special. As far as I know, if you are going new, your only choice is the 346xp.

If you are going to be running a 20” bar or greater, get a new ms440 while you can. Not enough difference in weigh and bulk between the ms361 and ms440 to fuss over. I often run both, side by side, and will mistakenly pick up one assuming it is the other. You will never know the difference until you hit the wood. No replacement for displacement.

 

[mesupra]

I run my 576xp over my 346xp only when bucking up firewood on level ground, any felling, woods work, limbing and light bucking <8-10" I reach for my 346xp. If you plan on doing some engine work would it be worth it to find a used 346xp vs tearing into a brand new 0hrs saw??

 

[Log Hogger]

Sounds like a modded 346 XP is probably the way to go for my circumstances. Time to start watching craigslist...if anyone knows someone selling a used one, I'd be grateful for any tips. Like Mesupra said, it's worth it to find a used saw since either me or an expert modder is going to be tearing into it.

 

[spike60]

Neither the 346 or 361/362 is enough saw for 28" hardwood. An occasional cut in that size wood is OK, but if that's a frequent need then you really ought to be looking at a 372/440 class saw.

 

[Log Hogger]

Neither the 346 or 361/362 is enough saw for 28" hardwood. An occasional cut in that size wood is OK, but if that's a frequent need then you really ought to be looking at a 372/440 class saw.

So you would disagree with nmurph's assertion that when ported by the right person, a 346XP can run with a 70 cc saw? If a ported 346 XP is more comparable to a 60cc saw, do you think it would be sufficient as an only saw if about 25% of the cutting was in 20-28" hardwood?

I've seen lots of used 372XPs up on CL lately, maybe I'll check one out and see how it feels. No need for porting on that one.

 

[MacLaren]

Neither the 346 or 361/362 is enough saw for 28" hardwood. An occasional cut in that size wood is OK, but if that's a frequent need then you really ought to be looking at a 372/440 class saw.

I just got thru cutting some 25" seasoned oak, and thats big wood for me. I know its not for loggers, but still yet I would not have wanted either a 346 or a 361 to cut that wood. With a Stihl 660 Magnum it took 30 seconds to cut thru it. With a Solo 681 35 seconds. Both saws stock. Yes, IMO 25" and up is too much for either smaller saw.

 

[MacLaren]

Now imagine a 346 going thru this and how long it would take.....Not to take anything at all away from it, as well its one of the best saws there is IMO, but 25" wood and up is a little much for her IMO.


Stihl MS660 Magnum Stock - YouTube


Solo 681 Stock - YouTube