Ms460
- Thread starter Gjt1980
- Start date
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Dropping a tooth, or adding a tooth? If you went to a 6 pin it would have more torque and less chain speed. An 8 would have more chain speed, and less torque.
Is it bogging with the 25"? I was under the impression the 460 could pull a 25" all day?
Is it bogging with the 25"? I was under the impression the 460 could pull a 25" all day?
Gavman
ArboristSite Operative
I have a 28" on my stock 460 and wouldnt change a thing, lots of power for a mid sized saw....
Jakers
Owner - Arbor Jake's Tree Service, LLC
stock is a 7 tooth sprocket. i have tried 8 tooth on a few different saws and didnt care for it. had one on my ported 7300 dolmar and ditched it. also had one on a 2186 jonsered that did "ok" but i still like to be able to lean on the saws. if you are thinking of dropping a tooth from a stock 7, im not sure if thats even possible. ive never seen a 6 tooth large (standard) spline rim sprocket. they do make spur drums in 6 tooth but they are the small clutch size for the little saws (top handle arborist saws) and made for 3/8 low profile
Locust Cutter
Sawing for Sanity
What rim are running right now? It ought to pull a 28-32" bar just fine wearing a 7-pin rim and under 28" is purely 8 pin territory. If you're wanting to speed the chain up, relative to the engine RPM (drop in overdrive for an analogy) then you want to go higher in tooth count, to slow the chain down you want t go smaller. If it helps, thin about a 10+ speed bicycle, only in this case the rear sprocket is the bar-tip sprocket, and the rim is the front crank-set. This is assuming that you have a bone-stock saw in good health. Give it a M.M. or a woods-port ad you might stick with an 8-pin for 28" and less depending on the wood you're cutting.
I run a couple of semi-chisel chains with no depth gauges (rakers) at all... grind them clean off. I use them mostly for cuttin' dead, punky stuff laying on the ground when clearing a new trail or road in the woodlot... they zip through damn fast. I'll sometimes use them for cuttin' softer wood like pine and fir, also cuttin' roots and such out. But ya' haf'ta be damn careful with 'em, if the tip of the bar even gets close to something... look-the-hell-out‼
I had one of those chains mounted this summer 'cause I was building a new road... dad came up and got the saw out'a the shop when I was at work (his saw was at the lake home). He wanted to clear some brush and small trees along the fence... damn thing kicked back and got his leg as he was pullin' it back out'a the brush. Nothin' too serious, but it was a wake-up call... as long as dad's around I won't be leavin' one of those mounted again. To him, a-chain-is-a-chain, he wouldn't know what a depth gauge was if he was lookin' at it... I do all his sharpening for him.
Between dad and the 5-year-old I can't leave anything even remotely dangerous layin' 'round... I even need to shut the outlet breakers off in the shop or one of them is likely to fire-up the table saw, welder, or whatever
Heck, I walked in the shop one day and the boy was tryin' to sharpen a crayon with the bench grinder (he'd watched me sharpen my carpenters pencil).
I had one of those chains mounted this summer 'cause I was building a new road... dad came up and got the saw out'a the shop when I was at work (his saw was at the lake home). He wanted to clear some brush and small trees along the fence... damn thing kicked back and got his leg as he was pullin' it back out'a the brush. Nothin' too serious, but it was a wake-up call... as long as dad's around I won't be leavin' one of those mounted again. To him, a-chain-is-a-chain, he wouldn't know what a depth gauge was if he was lookin' at it... I do all his sharpening for him.
Between dad and the 5-year-old I can't leave anything even remotely dangerous layin' 'round... I even need to shut the outlet breakers off in the shop or one of them is likely to fire-up the table saw, welder, or whatever
Heck, I walked in the shop one day and the boy was tryin' to sharpen a crayon with the bench grinder (he'd watched me sharpen my carpenters pencil).zogger
Tree Freak
Sounds like you need to bump up to a 660 or 661 whenever they are available, if ya like to lean on 'em.
OH_Varmntr
Burner of stored sunlight
I just came in from cutting for a break. Been running my stock MS460 with a 25" bar for the past 5 hours. Every time I fire this saw up I like it more and more and more and more and............
Yes it will bog if I really lay into it in hardwoods with the bar buried, but keep the chain properly sharpened and I find it doesn't need a lot of help just let her eat.
Sent from my ADR6410LVW using Tapatalk
Yes it will bog if I really lay into it in hardwoods with the bar buried, but keep the chain properly sharpened and I find it doesn't need a lot of help just let her eat.
Sent from my ADR6410LVW using Tapatalk
Zeus103363
ArboristSite Operative
OH_Varmntr
Burner of stored sunlight
I guess it depends upon your definition of "bog". It doesn't stall the chain, it just slows the cutting and engine speed down when it's really leaned on in hardwoods. I refer to that as a "bog", but to each his own.
flashhole
Addicted to ArboristSite
Locust Cutter, why do you say any bar under 28" is purely 8 pin territory? I use a 20" bar on my 460 a lot more than the 28" or 32" all with the stock 7 pin sprocket.
Locust Cutter
Sawing for Sanity
Flashhole, (Blackpowder reference?)
You can run a 7-pin rim for any bar you'd like on the saw for simplicity's sake. However, when running less than a 28" bar, (24" and less) hardwood or not, you're not working that saw anywhere near it's limits. If you put an 8-pin rim on, the chain will move faster, relative to the saw's rpm, cutting more material faster, with a reasonable load on the saw, (letting the teeth do the work) assuming the chain is in cutting shape. You move the torque band lower effectively, but if you don't need it to cut, then you're wasting time and capability. For analogies sake, imagine driving a 2-spd Powerglide equipped car down the highway in low-gear. You're sacrificing torque, fuel and speed for no other reason than not shifting into High-gear. Same deal here. Hope I made sense and I apologize if I sounded parochial or condescending as that wasn't my intention.
-Regards!
)You can run a 7-pin rim for any bar you'd like on the saw for simplicity's sake. However, when running less than a 28" bar, (24" and less) hardwood or not, you're not working that saw anywhere near it's limits. If you put an 8-pin rim on, the chain will move faster, relative to the saw's rpm, cutting more material faster, with a reasonable load on the saw, (letting the teeth do the work) assuming the chain is in cutting shape. You move the torque band lower effectively, but if you don't need it to cut, then you're wasting time and capability. For analogies sake, imagine driving a 2-spd Powerglide equipped car down the highway in low-gear. You're sacrificing torque, fuel and speed for no other reason than not shifting into High-gear. Same deal here. Hope I made sense and I apologize if I sounded parochial or condescending as that wasn't my intention.
-Regards!
flashhole
Addicted to ArboristSite
You didn't sound condescending at all, I was just curious about your comment.
flashhole is the name I also use on the shooting forums. I carried it over to this forum so as not to have to create a new name and password. The flash hole is between the primer and main powder column in the case. It allows the flash of the primer to ignite the powder.
flashhole is the name I also use on the shooting forums. I carried it over to this forum so as not to have to create a new name and password. The flash hole is between the primer and main powder column in the case. It allows the flash of the primer to ignite the powder.
