MS462c really hot start issue

[farmer steve]

Whats “start” mode?

You seem knowledgable, so this probably doesn’t apply to you, but many guys push the operator lever down to start the MT saws when warmed up. The operator lever shouldn’t be touched. There is only choke and run on these saws, and off is push up and hold. It confuses may people, including myself back when they came out.

There is no fast idle without choke.

I too was confused when I got mine. Thought something was wrong when it wouldn't stay in the off position.

 

[stihl86]

Choke on a conventional saw. It’s called start on Mtronic

 

[drf255]

Choke on a conventional saw. It’s called start on Mtronic

Which isnt.for warm starts.

 

[stihl86]

Which isnt.for warm starts.

I

I think the instruction manual has a few suggestions on that. It sometimes isn't that cut and dry.
Again, the system isn't as perfect as they want you to believe.
And the operator can get it wrong too.

 

[MaddBomber]

I didn't use the "start" position when attempting to restart it. I just simply pulled on her. Normally, she'd start on what felt like a 1/2 pull...lol.
Again...I do not normally run saw in that heat... For my and thier benefit.
This issue has not happened since this one issue.
I always allow for proper warm up and ALWAYS let it idle for a few minutes before shutting it off.

 

[MaddBomber]

At the suggestion of the dealer...start the saw for the day, leave it run in start position for 90 seconds...time it don't count it...dont touch the throttle, then get to work.

I'm not saying that's wrong, but the owner's manual states (page 47 for the 462) to put the master control lever all the way down and "run engine for at least 30 seconds but no more than 60"
Then hold throttle wide open.
In my experience she'll four-stroke like crazy and the rpms will bounce around considerably, eventually dropping to almost an idle....all with the throttle wide open. That's how you know it's calibrated.
The manual actually has a "notice" paragraph that says to keep the throttle trigger fully depressed for 30 seconds through the full calibration process or you can damage the saw.

 

[porsche965]

Never had that problem with Mtrons but don't have a 462 either. Just 261,362,441, 661 mtronics. And that was in Ga. heat in the summer. However the Huskies Auto Tune I did. What worked best was to choke them off when done. Then set the fast idle on restart and never had another problem. Try this with the master switch on the Stihls and then flip to off. It may work.

 

[DND 9000]

There is no fast idle on the M-Tronic models. You have only the cold start mode, normal running position and off.

 

[drf255]

I'm not saying that's wrong, but the owner's manual states (page 47 for the 462) to put the master control lever all the way down and "run engine for at least 30 seconds but no more than 60"
Then hold throttle wide open.
In my experience she'll four-stroke like crazy and the rpms will bounce around considerably, eventually dropping to almost an idle....all with the throttle wide open. That's how you know it's calibrated.
The manual actually has a "notice" paragraph that says to keep the throttle trigger fully depressed for 30 seconds through the full calibration process or you can damage the saw.

That’s only for calibration, and that’s version 2 of it. The calibration for the gen 1 models (Stihl present on new 261C’s) is different.

You shouldn’t do that everytime. In fact, I stopped doing it completely in the 462’s I’ve ported. Just put them right in wood after warming up, and they seem to “learn” on their own. Unless I am having an issue, I just start and run the saw and the MT does the rest for me.

 

[MaddBomber]

That’s only for calibration, and that’s version 2 of it. The calibration for the gen 1 models (Stihl present on new 261C’s) is different.

You shouldn’t do that everytime. In fact, I stopped doing it completely in the 462’s I’ve ported. Just put them right in wood after warming up, and they seem to “learn” on their own. Unless I am having an issue, I just start and run the saw and the MT does the rest for me.

100% agree.

 

[toadman]

That’s only for calibration, and that’s version 2 of it. The calibration for the gen 1 models (Stihl present on new 261C’s) is different.

You shouldn’t do that everytime. In fact, I stopped doing it completely in the 462’s I’ve ported. Just put them right in wood after warming up, and they seem to “learn” on their own. Unless I am having an issue, I just start and run the saw and the MT does the rest for me.

They do learn fast on their own, I have had my 661, and this past week it and the 462 cutting at 11k feet in Colorado (above the trees- grandpa gets log wood delivered) straight ftom ohio at 650ft above sea level.
I couldn't do the retune process on the 462, as I don't have a timer and I didn't know it was different from the 661.
this last time she learnt (as best as I could tell) in only one cut no retune process.

 

[stihl86]

Most think the calibration is the sliver bullet for all their Mtronic woes. No one wish’s that’s more than me. Clock seems to move 3x quicker when a problem child comes in

 

[Circle B MN]

I'm not saying that's wrong, but the owner's manual states (page 47 for the 462) to put the master control lever all the way down and "run engine for at least 30 seconds but no more than 60"
Then hold throttle wide open.
In my experience she'll four-stroke like crazy and the rpms will bounce around considerably, eventually dropping to almost an idle....all with the throttle wide open. That's how you know it's calibrated.
The manual actually has a "notice" paragraph that says to keep the throttle trigger fully depressed for 30 seconds through the full calibration process or you can damage the saw.

This is the info my dealer pulled off his puter and recalled from his Stihl factory training. Its what I have to go on and seems to work. YMMV