Last year spring time I guess.
- The oil pump might be ok or not, you will find out obviously.
If you get massive amounts of oil in to the clutch compartment thats because of the hole in the center of the plastic gear going down to the axle in the oil pump.
You can cover that hole using a rubber gasket sheet cut to a suitable patch and glue it on with CA glue (super glue) after cleaning and perhaps some sanding to roughen the surface of the plastic gear as well as the rubber.
- You will know this by a lot of oil seeping out and make a puddle on your bench/shelf after use.
It has a purpose: to lube the gears and (perhaps most importantly) make sure they don't melt from the heat of the clutch.
However, I milled the beech wood on my avatar with one of these with the axle hole covered and completely without any intentional oil leak and it didn't melt. Also it was completely dry and oil free after use.
- If the oil tank is nearly full (like 80-90% full) after running a tank of gas then you should consider the oil pump is not working properly.
- The clutch springs will snap after a couple of hours, use OEM clutch springs to avoid this problem.
You will know this by that the chain will no longer stop at idle.
- The bar stud threads will give away if you tighten the nuts too much, use OEM bar studs and nuts to avoid this problem.
- The clutch compartment cover might be needed to be milled off if you want the guide bar to sit solidly to the mount surface, have a look at my post about that it's really simple to do.
You need a mill bit (I used a 6mm diameter aluminum mill bit) and a bench drill or similar that can set the mill bit/drill in a certain height position above a work surface, or use your imagination to get it done.
If you take too much off or it don't look nice it don't matter, just as long as the cover does not protrude outside the bar mount seat.
It's a grunty saw, once you have sorted out the child problems you will love it!