My aux oiler addition

[Andrew96]

After Milling some dry wood up, I needed an oiler. I went with an oiler that puts oil right in the groove rather than some of the other options. Hopefully the next guy who makes one up might learn something from my photos. Of course, I wouldn't post them here if I wasn't prepared for comments.
Here is my completed mill (so far), 30" of cut from a 36" bar. Fixed 1/8" graduations for cutting depth by relocating the pins. My handle in it's final location. It's a "bolt through the bar" type mill.

My new oiler addition. Bolts to the tip so I can remove the mill for sharpening and not goof with the oiler. The top unscrews so I can fill it up. The vent line runs down into the post. Clear so I can see the level. I'll only fill it up 1/2 way. I went with a design of fixed height so I could set a flow without having the vessel at different heights all the time. Also..it had to be robust enough that I could throw it around on the ground and not brake anything. The mill uprights protect the vessel when it's laying on it's side.

The vessel feeds a 1/4" clear line down to a needle valve and mount I fabricated. There is an O ring under that lock nut. A pin on the needle so I can keep track of how far to open it.

Here you can see the feed hole, and the locating pin hole (to keep things from rotating). It's a max 0.100" hole in the needle valve, 1/8" hole in the bar but only a 0.063" hole into the bar groove...it's an 063" bar. I've drilled both sides of the bar so when I flip it, I still have an oiler.
My flow tests ranged from 14ml/min with a full vessel down to 10ml/min at the bottom with my needle open 1 turn. I can get more flow but the flow test on the bench was a little messy to play again.

Here you can see how I'm going to start and stop the flow between cuts using my small needle valve close to the chain. I'll finish my cut, then pull the idling saw off my log. Sit it down on the mill end (like the photo). I let it idle in this position after a cut. In this position though, the oil will only flow a little bit out of the hose down to the bar. Once the saw is shut off, I'll be able to turn the needle valve off, gas and oil the assembly in another orientation. Of course, it's only been tested in the shop but that's the concept.

 

[BobL]

Nice work andrew.

It will be interesting to see how much vibe you get on the structure itself when it's on a running mill.

With regards flow rate, if it does not get high enough (I reckon you need about 20 ml/min) you can use canola or a mix of canola and regular oil. Although I understand canola can gum up in your colder climes.

I also like your wheels!

 

[Andrew96]

Thanks bobL. I read your target flow rates but figured I didn't need to go that high with such a short bar. It's only 36" you know. I'm still restricting the flow with the needle valve so I should be able to get more flow when it's limited by the 063" hole only. Once I come up with a nicer way to measure the volume I'll run some other bench tests. I made a mess so called it quits. Lower viscosity would help at all temps.
Both of my mills have wheels. I think it would be a pain to mill without them. I turned those myself from some flat aluminum plate I had.

The structure seems stronger than I thought it would be. It's bolted quite close to the upright so the tip cannot flex. It needs a couple of good days to see if I'm happy though.

 

[chuckwood]

auxillary oiler

Hopefully the next guy who makes one up might learn something from my photos.

I'm the next guy who is planning on making one up. I'm putting together a Granberg 36" Alaskan with a Stihl 075. I like making my own stuff and the oiler seems easy enough. I've been looking for other threads on homemade oilers and it seems I'm not using the search mode correctly, can't find anything much. One issue I'd like to see some threads about is in finding/building the oiler injector bolt that will be installed onto the bar next to the tip roller. I've seen only one advertised at Baileys, but they describe it as for a double ended bar. The rest seems fairly easy to construct from hardware store items. I'll probably not use a see-through oil tank, as the clear plastic hose should tell the user whether oil is flowing or not.

I also have a situation with what oil to use. I've got lots of used oil stored up from tractor and truck maintenance that will have to be recyled some day. I'm thinking, why not use it. For example, there's 20 gallons of used tractor transmission/hydraulic oil, nice and clear, no dirt in it as far as I can tell, why not filter and use it? The oil crankcase oil is black and dirty, but I can filter the dirt out of it, why not? I do know *not* to use oil crankcase oil in the saw's internal oiler. But for the auxillary?

 

[Kicker_92]

With regards flow rate, if it does not get high enough (I reckon you need about 20 ml/min) you can use canola or a mix of canola and regular oil. Although I understand canola can gum up in your colder climes.

I was using 2/3 canola to 1/3 bar oil last weekend at -5°C (approx 20°F) with no issues.

The Canola was much more fluid than the meduim weight Stihl bar oil. I don't have an Aux oiler, and the oil gets basically flushed out every couple of weeks as I'm milling so Canola is a good cost savings.

 

[demographic]

Now there's a man who races some vehicle I think, good idea on the lockwiring.

 

[mtngun]

One issue I'd like to see some threads about is in finding/building the oiler injector bolt that will be installed onto the bar next to the tip roller.

I recommend dripping onto the nose instead of into the bar groove. Much simpler and seems to work just as well.

The granberg "injector bolt" is just a bolt, 5/16" I believe, drilled lengthwise up to the head. Then another hole is drilled perpendicular to the bolt just above the head. It's prone to plugging up plus the bar grooves themselves plug up with sawdust/oil gunk. I got tired of unplugging the granberg "injector" system and switched to a dripper.

I've got lots of used oil stored up from tractor and truck maintenance that will have to be recyled some day. I'm thinking, why not use it.

As Sarah Palin would say, "YOU BETCHA." Used oil works fine for the aux oiler.

Andrew, great job on your mill and oiler. Thanks for sharing.

I've never tried to measure the flow on the Granberg aux oiler, but it uses far less oil than the saw. I only refill the aux tank two or three times in a full day.

 

[Brmorgan]

I had an old fella here tell me once that the carbon in used motor oil is abrasive and will lead to premature bar and chain wear. The logic SOUNDS good, but whether or not it'd actually make much of a difference I'm not sure. Still hasn't stopped me from using it on occasion if I need some in a pinch though!

 

[chuckwood]

used crankcase oil bar lubricant in aux oiler

I had an old fella here tell me once that the carbon in used motor oil is abrasive and will lead to premature bar and chain wear. The logic SOUNDS good, but whether or not it'd actually make much of a difference I'm not sure. Still hasn't stopped me from using it on occasion if I need some in a pinch though!

My primary concern in using old motor oil would be the presence of metal and other types of grit in the oil, the stuff that will kill your saw's oil pump if you use it inside the saw. There, I believe it prematurely wears out any plastic and rubber parts. I'm not sure if the grit in crankcase oil would be enough to really cause any noticeable extra bar or chain wear, after all, the stuff is running in your car or truck right now, especially if you're close to an oil change. If used crankcase oil was bad enough to ruin a bar and chain, you'd think it would also ruin a motor. As for ordinary carbon/soot particles, I don't see how they could be abrasive, carbon, to the best of my knowledge, is rather soft. A crystalline form of carbon, graphite, is a very good dry lubricant.

 

[chuckwood]

dripping

I recommend dripping onto the nose instead of into the bar groove. Much simpler and seems to work just as well.

Thanks! You've just solved a problem for me. I really wasn't looking forward to drilling in my chainsaw bar and hacking around with small bolts. When thinking about a drip setup, one wonders if the chain will get enough lube on the side underneath, opposite the oiler. I guess what I will do is watch my chain and turn up the flow rate on the lube until I see it reaching all parts of the chain.

 

[BobL]

My primary concern in using old motor oil would be the presence of metal and other types of grit in the oil, the stuff that will kill your saw's oil pump if you use it inside the saw. There, I believe it prematurely wears out any plastic and rubber parts. I'm not sure if the grit in crankcase oil would be enough to really cause any noticeable extra bar or chain wear, after all, the stuff is running in your car or truck right now, especially if you're close to an oil change. If used crankcase oil was bad enough to ruin a bar and chain, you'd think it would also ruin a motor.

It will - try not changing your oil and see what happens. Don't forget engine oil goes through a filter before it it is delivered to the parts that need it. The soup drained from a car engine still has a lot of gunk in it and should be at least allowed to stand or better still filtered before use. Even dangling a magnet in it will help for magnetic stuff.

As for ordinary carbon/soot particles, I don't see how they could be abrasive, carbon, to the best of my knowledge, is rather soft. A crystalline form of carbon, graphite, is a very good dry lubricant.

And another form called diamond is the hardest stuff around. Soot is mix of a wide range of carbon most of which is abrasive and can score motor parts quite easily and is why saws are decarburized around the exhaust ports if they are run incorrectly.

The reality is it is possible to use used engine oil and the wear differential between new and used oil will not be noticed but for me the issue with used engine oil it is that it is full of carcinogens and heavy metals. I wouldn't go into the woods or my back garden and dump gallons of used oil on the ground so why do that via a saw?

 

[Daninvan]

I've drilled a couple bars for the Granberg oiler bolts. I found that it was not difficult at all to drill the bars, I just clamped them on my drill press table, and used a punch to create a little divot to prevent the drill bit from skating around at the start. Afterwards, a small file removed any burrs quickly.

I will agree with the comment that the little orifice in the bolts is tough to keep clean. I have not yet found a convenient way to do so mid cut if need be. Maybe a thin but rigid wire jammed in from the top?

Dan

 

[BobL]

Here is a thread about making an oil delivery bolt http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=49448

But since then I have changed to the drip method.
See mine at post #18 here, http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=77152&page=2

I agree with mtngun, it works just as effectively as the thru bolt method and makes the bar flipping task a bit quicker

 

[mtngun]

I had an old fella here tell me once that the carbon in used motor oil is abrasive and will lead to premature bar and chain wear. The logic SOUNDS good, but whether or not it'd actually make much of a difference I'm not sure. Still hasn't stopped me from using it on occasion if I need some in a pinch though!

I haven't noticed any unusual bar wear -- in fact, I've yet to wear out a bar. Nor have I worn out an oil pump.

There is no filter in a manual transmission or in a differential. Lots of metal particles floating around in the oil, yet trannies and diffs last decades. But supposedly this same oil will not suffice for a fraction of a second on a chainsaw bar ?

I do let used oil settle in the oil pan, and then, when pouring it into the chainsaw jug, I discard the last bit in the pan, where the metal chips have settled.

I guarantee that your bar will last longer and your chain will stretch less when lubricated with used oil from an auxilary oiler, compared to no auxilary oiler.

We have to do something with used motor oil. Most people in my part of the world simply dump it, or throw it in the trash so that it eventually ends up in a landfill. It seems to me that putting used oil to a constructive use -- like in an auxilary bar oiler -- is a better than average way to deal with it and to conserve a limited resource.

 

[BobL]

We have to do something with used motor oil. Most people in my part of the world simply dump it, or throw it in the trash so that it eventually ends up in a landfill. It seems to me that putting used oil to a constructive use -- like in an auxilary bar oiler -- is a better than average way to deal with it and to conserve a limited resource.

I agree it should be conserved and it can be recycled. Ultimately our grandkids will probably curse us for burning it when it's real value as a recyclable lube or chemical feed stock for plastics is realized.

 

[Andrew96]

Oil is oil. Oil for an engine is thin (viscosity) so it can get pumped through to the proper places, or splashed. As the important bits under extreme pressure are fed under oil pressure, it can take a lot of load. Higher load/shear type applications have much thicker oil (ring+pinion, transmission) that can cope with the shear and still protect the parts. They also use roller bearings, not soft bearings like on a conrod/crank. On a chain saw, with a splash lubricated system (not through the saw), running hard parts (chain, bar), we can use pretty much anything since we are not pumping it. Anything with the proper viscosity, that we could get in the area, would work. I cannot see any function reason why it wouldn't work. However,
Dumping used oil on the ground isn't good. Used oil is filled with poisonous crap. That's not good to get on your skin... so don't. Try doing that for a day playing in saw dust, I can't. I don't use it..not because it won't work...I cannot dump that on other people farms when cutting their trees.

 

[Andrew96]

I'm the next guy who is planning on making one up.

Chuckwood, I made the oiler mount as part of the delivery system. I made the nipple, needle valve, body all from 1/4" bar stock on my lathe. It's all brazed together. The locknut is over an Oring for vibration. I wasn't happy with what I could find. I felt it would dump the oil into a better spot. If you don't have the ability to make something like that up, don't, search the many threads on other oilers, search thing like oil, aux oiler etc and follow BobLs posts....he links everything together which helps, and make up a drip type system. They are easier and many feel they work just as good as dumping oil into the groove. I don't like the fabricated vessel I have...but it will work for now until I find the one I want. I want a white power steering fluid tank from a car. I couldn't find one after a few attempts. This plumbing one is very high, holds more than I need it too.

Even with the short bar I have, I had wear on my bar from 3 days of cutting up dry stuff without an oiler. Many of the hardcore guys have faster cutting times with an oiler running...so you need one. Make an easier type, fill it with anything oily you have (all the previous discussions on oil) and enjoy.

Now there's a man who races some vehicle I think, good idea on the lockwiring.

I've lockwired everything on this mill. In fact, I used Nylocks, locktite and lock wire (overkill I know). I'd rather drill some nuts and bolts out and wire them up than crawl around looking for a part that fell off...or check to see if they vibrated apart all the time. Yup...I race Motorcycles...when parts fall off...I'm not too far behind. IMO mills vibrate a lot. I'd rather have a beverage late one evening drilling and wiring, than say...watch TV. You should see my race bikes!

 

[chuckwood]

any problems with drip method?

But since then I have changed to the drip method.
See mine at post #18 here, http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=77152&page=2

I agree with mtngun, it works just as effectively as the thru bolt method and makes the bar flipping task a bit quicker

Since it can't clog, and if it delivers oil just as effectively, then dripping should be the best way. However, in one post you say

" I am disappointed in the new oiler. The oiler delivery point is about is about 4/5 of the way around the nose and the chain seems to just flings most of the oil off. The chain definitely ran hotter than my direct bar groove delivery method."


I'll be building my rig then to deliver oil just past the nose. I'm curious as to how you solved the oil delivery problem on your setup. Did you increase the flow rate to the bar? You also mentioned the possibility of drilling a hole in the bar so the oil could drip directly into the bar groove. Thanks for posting, I'm getting lots of good ideas from your work.

 

[chuckwood]

used oil problems

Dumping used oil on the ground isn't good. Used oil is filled with poisonous crap. That's not good to get on your skin... so don't. Try doing that for a day playing in saw dust, I can't. I don't use it..not because it won't work...I cannot dump that on other people farms when cutting their trees.

I guess I look at this differently, possibly because I'm a tightwad and I've got about at least 50 gallons of various types of used lubricants sitting around in storage, waiting to be hauled off for recycling, yet another chore waiting to be done. If used in milling, the oil will be absorbed in the massive amounts of sawdust generated by the milling process, it's not just being dumped raw onto the ground. My theory is that the oil will slowly decay along with the sawdust, or at least that's what I hope. My understanding is that oil is very slowly biodegradeable by soil bacteria, and will break down into other less toxic substances over time. As for getting it on skin, I'm planning on milling only in colder weather when I'm wearing long sleeves and gloves. I never just dump used oil directly onto the ground.

Am I just kidding myself and being a bad steward of the earth's resources?

 

[Andrew96]

Am I just kidding myself and being a bad steward of the earth's resources?

I think you have to look at each location before you slap yourself. I agree with everything you say but...not if you're cutting right beside a water supply or lake or something. Consider where you are...in town on a lawn? Hilltop in the bush? Right beside someone's bean field?