My FIRST Stihl! A slightly worn 029...

[ribertgropius]

Progress

I looked at the cylinder again and I don't think I got any substantial particles in the cylinder. I am more just concerned about the film of dust that seemed to be clinging to everything. I will flush it out with fuel and slip my finger into the manifold to feel if there is still anything remaining.

I did a compression test on the cold engine and it came out at 135. Am I correct in thinking that is a pretty decent number for this saw? Spark plug looked great, piston looks good, and I am not inclined to further disassemble the engine if I don't need to replace rings or piston.

I had some plastic epoxy in the shop downstairs and applied it to the tank. As it turns out it is almost the same color. I suspect it will take care of my leak for now and long term I will give thought to finding a ms 290 carcass with good plastic and bad engine to transfer.

I used the same epoxy to take care of the crack in the handle, and while it may be a good bonding agent, the cream color is definitely not an enhancement. I probably should have used clear epoxy, although I am pretty sure that this joint will be mostly covered by the handle.

Only thing I am missing right now is the saw seems to be missing the gasket between the air cleaner and the carb. I checked at my local Stihl dealer and they don't stock it, so I will have to order it. Because the air filter seems to fit pretty tight to the carb flange I will do without until I pick up the new one when it comes in next week.

It is still not really clean; I need to wash it down with a brush and hose it off. Maybe this weekend.

One trivia question: I read in the manual that the oiler is supposed to be adjustable. I don't see any indications on the bottom of mine for an oiler adjustment, but there is a tiny hole ....is that the oiler adjustment?

Robert

 

[keith811]

[
One trivia question: I read in the manual that the oiler is supposed to be adjustable. I don't see any indications on the bottom of mine for an oiler adjustment, but there is a tiny hole ....is that the oiler adjustment?

Robert[/QUOTE]

if you send me an email address I can send you an I.P.L. and a service manual for the 029 in pdf form may be helpful

 

[SpaayDawg]

[
One trivia question: I read in the manual that the oiler is supposed to be adjustable. I don't see any indications on the bottom of mine for an oiler adjustment, but there is a tiny hole ....is that the oiler adjustment?

Robert

if you send me an email address I can send you an I.P.L. and a service manual for the 029 in pdf form may be helpful[/QUOTE]

The oil adjustment hole will be in the "handle" of the saw. Look for a small (1/8") hole in the black handle portion under the saw, near the clutch. It should have a picture of a chain tooth, with a "ramp" that indicates less oil or more oil. Insert a screwdriver that you would use for throttle adjustment (yes, it needs to be that small) and adjust it to your liking.

 

[keith811]

if you send me an email address I can send you an I.P.L. and a service manual for the 029 in pdf form may be helpful

The oil adjustment hole will be in the "handle" of the saw. Look for a small (1/8") hole in the black handle portion under the saw, near the clutch. It should have a picture of a chain tooth, with a "ramp" that indicates less oil or more oil. Insert a screwdriver that you would use for throttle adjustment (yes, it needs to be that small) and adjust it to your liking.[/QUOTE]

Nice save spaaydawg I couldn't remember where the oil adjustment was on 029

the offer still stands for the manuals though

 

[ribertgropius]

if you send me an email address I can send you an I.P.L. and a service manual for the 029 in pdf form may be helpful

The oil adjustment hole will be in the "handle" of the saw. Look for a small (1/8") hole in the black handle portion under the saw, near the clutch. It should have a picture of a chain tooth, with a "ramp" that indicates less oil or more oil. Insert a screwdriver that you would use for throttle adjustment (yes, it needs to be that small) and adjust it to your liking.[/QUOTE]

Thanks for the offer on the manuals. It was suggested earlier in the week that I post a desire for the manuals in the Beg for Manuals sticky and I had a response within ten minutes! This forum is amazing.

I saw the symbol you are describing in the Owner's manual, but when I look at the bottom of my saw, I don't see that symbol, though there is a tiny hole. I will blow it out with air and look more closely, but do all 029's have an adjustable oiler?

UPDATE: I think I understand what I was missing! I have the black handle bar off the saw right now, so...no markings on the grey stuff! Thanks!

Robert

 

[Fish]

I am going to respond on your thread, my p.m.s are getting high up there
and I will need to empty out some messages.
To respond to your question, I wouldn't tear it down if the tank fix works,
flush it with some mix, put her back together and cut wood.
If you had to replace the tank, you would have to tear it down that far
anyway.

 

[ribertgropius]

I am going to respond on your thread, my p.m.s are getting high up there
and I will need to empty out some messages.
To respond to your question, I wouldn't tear it down if the tank fix works,
flush it with some mix, put her back together and cut wood.
If you had to replace the tank, you would have to tear it down that far
anyway.

OK so...

I used plastic epoxy to create a fillet along the seam and when I checked my work, sure enough inside the tank I could see the hairline crack that ran vertically right in the bend where the seam is (not the seam itself). My repair probably would hold BUT...between my epoxy (which curious enough is a pretty close match to the oil-stained plastic color) and the jb-weld the previous owner used, it's just not pretty.....

so....

I couldn't help myself: I bought a used tank advertised to be in excellent condition on ebay. Now I will have to tear the saw down the rest of the way to swap housings. And if I go THAT FAR......

Should I swap out the rings? The piston looks great from both sides. The compression doesn't sound like it is as high as it could be (I got 135 lbs cold with a Harbor Freight compression guage so I can't vouch for accuracy) but it ran well before I took it apart. I can get a set of rings from Bailey's for $12; sounds like I would need to buy a special ring compressor from the dealer (if he will order me one)....and if I crack the case open, should I replace the oil seals? What do I use for sealant when putting everything back together again (crankcase and oil seals use same sealant?)

Or...

Should I leave well enough alone??! This is when my limited knowledge working with these saws is dangerous!

 

[Saw Dr.]

The bolts that hold the engine in the cradle also hold the engine together. If you're going to remove it, it would probably be best to open it up. Then you will have a fresh seal between the case halves, and less chance of an air leak. I would also strongly suggest replacing the cank seals if you open the engine up. They are pricey ($15 each!) at the dealer, but $30 is way cheaper than a new piston. 135 PSI is acceptable for an 029, and you have nothing to worry about with that little bit of brown discoloration on the piston you speak of.
Good luck getting that rear bar stud out without destroying it. Fortunately, most dealers stock them. There is no gasket between the filter and carb on an 029. There was another thread on this lastnight, or was that you asking?

 

[SpaayDawg]

Here is what I use to get all bar studs out of any chainsaw I'm working on.

Autozone Stud Remover

With a $30 deposit, I just "forgot" to return them.

There are 2 different crank seals available for the 1127 engies if you don't want to take it fully apart. The bottom of the crankcase will stay in place if you are careful when removing it. If you're worried about the rings though, I'd just replace them, along with new crank seals. You're going through all the work anyway.

 

[ribertgropius]

Thanks for the suggestion for the stud remover. It never occurred to me to "borrow" the tool from Autozone. I have borrowed gear pullers from them before....it's a great deal.

 

[SpaayDawg]

Usually if you're up front with the staff and you let them know that you "might not return it" they'll find the newest/best one and send you on your way.

 

[ribertgropius]

Usually if you're up front with the staff and you let them know that you "might not return it" they'll find the newest/best one and send you on your way.

I have had good luck with Autozone and their free rental policy. The gear puller I borrowed failed under use, and they swapped it out for another one, which I was happy to return when I was done. No reason not to since I don't use them very often...this way I am able to borrow a new one whenever its necessary, and it keeps me as a customer there.

 

[ribertgropius]

Thanks to everyone for all the advice - completed reassembly

Thanks again to everyone who shared their knowledge on this forum. I finished reassembling the 029 tonight, and to my pleasure, no missing or extra parts!

A couple of things for future readers:

• I found the double-nut method for removal of the bar stud a great solution. Unfortunately, I didn't find out until AFTER I destroyed mine, but it certainly worked for putting it back in. There is a video of the process posted on one of the 029 threads.
• The" new" (used) tank came with a fuel line already in it, but I noticed that I could freely spin it in its hole. I swapped out mine which seemed to fit much snugger with the thought that it should provide a better seal.
• Thanks to everyone that offered to share a copy of the Owner's Manual, Illustrated Parts List, and Service Manual for the saw. The photos that Fish posted on another thread showing the disassembly of an MS290 were a great resource. Those, together with the IPL and the manuals kept me mostly out of trouble.
• I used a combination of compressed air and Simple Green to clean everything. The Simple Green was nice for removing the sticky sawdust / oil residue and will hopefully help the saw stay cleaner longer. The compressed air was great both for initially getting rid of some of the sawdust (recommend doing it outdoors or in a garage if possible, dust everywhere) and for final cleaning and drying of parts.
• Finally, while this saw will never be "pretty", it was a great way to get to know the machine and have a comfort level with both its condition and parts. I probably have 8 hours invested in it, which would probably go down to 2 hours now that I have done it once, but I dissassembled it almost all the way (did not split the crankcase).

Every machine of course has its quirks, especially when you acquire it from a previous owner without knowing its history. I resisted starting it up until I buy some fresh mix, and I am hopeful that it will run as well as it did when I dissassembled it, although, if not, I am sure with the help of the group here I will be able trouble shoot it. Now that I have been through this process I understand alot more about the other threads I have read about various issues about maintaining or resuscitating these saws.

And now that I have this one together, I find I keep looking at CL for other possible Stihl projects...lol....had to make myself pass on an 031AV that had been sitting for a couple of years. What is it with these saws that one wants to acquire them? It's not like I really need another one, just curious.....and I would love to take apart an 026...

Guess I should start this one first, eh? Oh, and I do have some wood to cut!

Robert

P.S. Filled it up with fuel and oil and she started right up, and sounded soooo GOOD. Not sure if I am imagining it sounding better than before but it seems like it. The saw has a 20" bar which seems longer than what I need. Any recommendations for a replacement bar and chain for this saw? It will be used primarily to cut up firewood from fallen timber.

 

[SpaayDawg]

Thanks again to everyone who shared their knowledge on this forum. I finished reassembling the 029 tonight, and to my pleasure, no missing or extra parts!

A couple of things for future readers:

• I found the double-nut method for removal of the bar stud a great solution. Unfortunately, I didn't find out until AFTER I destroyed mine, but it certainly worked for putting it back in. There is a video of the process posted on one of the 029 threads.
• The" new" (used) tank came with a fuel line already in it, but I noticed that I could freely spin it in its hole. I swapped out mine which seemed to fit much snugger with the thought that it should provide a better seal.
• Thanks to everyone that offered to share a copy of the Owner's Manual, Illustrated Parts List, and Service Manual for the saw. The photos that Fish posted on another thread showing the disassembly of an MS290 were a great resource. Those, together with the IPL and the manuals kept me mostly out of trouble.
• I used a combination of compressed air and Simple Green to clean everything. The Simple Green was nice for removing the sticky sawdust / oil residue and will hopefully help the saw stay cleaner longer. The compressed air was great both for initially getting rid of some of the sawdust (recommend doing it outdoors or in a garage if possible, dust everywhere) and for final cleaning and drying of parts.
• Finally, while this saw will never be "pretty", it was a great way to get to know the machine and have a comfort level with both its condition and parts. I probably have 8 hours invested in it, which would probably go down to 2 hours now that I have done it once, but I dissassembled it almost all the way (did not split the crankcase).

Every machine of course has its quirks, especially when you acquire it from a previous owner without knowing its history. I resisted starting it up until I buy some fresh mix, and I am hopeful that it will run as well as it did when I dissassembled it, although, if not, I am sure with the help of the group here I will be able trouble shoot it. Now that I have been through this process I understand alot more about the other threads I have read about various issues about maintaining or resuscitating these saws.

And now that I have this one together, I find I keep looking at CL for other possible Stihl projects...lol....had to make myself pass on an 031AV that had been sitting for a couple of years. What is it with these saws that one wants to acquire them? It's not like I really need another one, just curious.....and I would love to take apart an 026...

Guess I should start this one first, eh? Oh, and I do have some wood to cut!

Robert

P.S. Filled it up with fuel and oil and she started right up, and sounded soooo GOOD. Not sure if I am imagining it sounding better than before but it seems like it. The saw has a 20" bar which seems longer than what I need. Any recommendations for a replacement bar and chain for this saw? It will be used primarily to cut up firewood from fallen timber.

A buddy of mine has 2 029's and they both have 20" b/c on them. He cuts in a cedar swamp though, and brings out the 036 for firewood cutting. I'd say 18", that's what I run on my 028S which would have about the same power as an 029 I think. But my dad cut firewood for 30 years with a 16" b/c and said he never wanted a longer reach. To each his own.

Congrats on getting 'her back together!!