my invention....opinions?

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update:

i used 4" flex duct for the intake, got everything hooked up and tried it out.

problem is it works too good....makes the bedroom a little too warm. but that's when the temps are in the high 30's at night. i'll see what happens when it's like 20 out.

but, i'm happy with it. put a digital temperature sensor where the air blows out from the fire place....at times it reads as high as 250 degrees, but will run a constant 160 to 180 degrees.
 
getting the cold air out of the back of the house sure makes a difference. Now if you can come up with a therrnostatically controlled switch to set the temp in there so it doesnt fall under a certain temperature as long as the stove is burning, you might get the wife happy. but only for a little bit.

:cheers: :cheers:
 
well you want a cycle of hot and cold like a wood furnace uses but you dont want to burn your house down i n the process .besides size and cfm concerns ,is this pipe your using rated for the constant heat even galvanized dunting has a low limit o whats acceptable whats wrong with using fans seems a ceiling fan should help alot
 
well you want a cycle of hot and cold like a wood furnace uses but you dont want to burn your house down i n the process .besides size and cfm concerns ,is this pipe your using rated for the constant heat even galvanized dunting has a low limit o whats acceptable whats wrong with using fans seems a ceiling fan should help alot

the pipe is drawing only cold air and feeding it to the heat exchanger inside the fireplace. there is only room temperature air going thru it.

the heated air flows out under the glass doors thru a 1" opening.

my heat exchanger thing is basically a grate with pipes that air flows thru them. i highly recommend these things for any one with a fire place....they work too good.

we have ceiling fans in every room, but the house is "L" shape and the furthest room is like 35 feet away from the fireplace.
 
but, this set up will only be drawing room temp air from the furthest room of the house and using that air to feed the fireplace's heat stream thing.

then, that air is heated and dispersed under the glass doors. my theory is that as it draws the air from that far room, it will be replaced by the warm air being drawn down the hallway.


Hmmm. I think it would be safer and more effective to draw warm room air from where the stove is located, and pump it to where it's not as warm as you want it.


I'm planning on doing that in my house as my next project. I plan to have an air intake in the ceiling of the family room (where the stove is) connected to a blower motor, pumping the air through standard HVAC ducting to the living room at the other end of the house. I also want to split off a smaller line to the master bedroom. Both of these will exit into the room(s) via a standard ceiling register, and return air just goes down the hallway, back to the family room.

Since I don't want to hijack your thread, mebbe I'll start another one about this. I need some advice from HVAC guys!
 
Hmmm. I think it would be safer and more effective to draw warm room air from where the stove is located, and pump it to where it's not as warm as you want it.


I'm planning on doing that in my house as my next project. I plan to have an air intake in the ceiling of the family room (where the stove is) connected to a blower motor, pumping the air through standard HVAC ducting to the living room at the other end of the house. I also want to split off a smaller line to the master bedroom. Both of these will exit into the room(s) via a standard ceiling register, and return air just goes down the hallway, back to the family room.

Since I don't want to hijack your thread, mebbe I'll start another one about this. I need some advice from HVAC guys!

i have central a/c with the unit installed in the attic. ( my primary heat is hot water baseboard) so, i have all the duct work already there and i have one of the "returns" near the fireplace. i tried doing what you suggested, but, it seemed not to transfer the heat for some reason. also, if you run your duct work in the attic, the standard insulated flex lines are only about 4.6R value. either wrap them with 3.5" of unfaced or use a higher R value. (some thing i learned while installing mine) AND....wrap the unit itself with 3.5" of insulation...it helps. or, use those hot water tank blankets.

my theory in my OP was to create a negative air pressure in the furthest room, so that it would draw the air down to it. so far, it seems to work pretty good. if i'm happy with it, i'll use a higher CFM blower.
 
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