need bar trued.

[treesurgeon]

where is the best place to buy a grinder to tru up a bar so that it cuts strait?
costing too much to take them in and the hand jobber is just for light stuff.

 

[NWCS]

baileys has a $279 shop style bar rail grinder, and rail closers. and every other neat toy you could want.. im a baileys addict

http://onlinestore.forestindustry.com/cgi-bin/baileys/scan/se=123/mp=p_search.html

 

[Stumper]

If the Pferd "hand jobber' won't work you either aren't using it well or the bar is trash.

 

[clearance]

Don't waste your time if it is bent. I often file my bar with a raker file, thats all you need to do. If you "need" a machine then you are not maintaining your bar properly, and often. I take it off the saw, file it, clean it, flip it about every five times I sharpen the chain.

 

[Al Smith]

A belt sander does an excellent job of resurfacing a bar.I use a 6 by 48,myself.

 

[Lawn Masters]

I'm told a belt sander will also work well to sharpen mower blades.

 

[Stumper]

I'm told a belt sander will also work well to sharpen mower blades.

Or a great many other things like chipper knives, axes etc.

 

[treesurgeon]

thanks for the input. i think i will be going with the professional grinder. seems like it will make the bars long lasting, cut better and have a 90-degree edge. the hand jobber works great but its tuff to get a perfect 90 edge after its been used for a while.

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

The machine works great.
It makes fast work of it and if you run saws for a living you should have one and use it as part of your standard maintenance. It makes tiny little score lines across the rails of the bar, these act as little grinders to true up the bottom of the chain.
You can goof around with files and sanders but the rail grinder works best.

 

[056kid]

just buy a new bar, jesus!

 

[HELSEL]

I have to agree with 056.I take care of my bars just like clearance.But if it shot buy a new one.

Rick

 

[Marky Mark]

Find one of these and you won't need to buy a bar again when you can make you own from others who toss them out.

 

[Al Smith]

Well,ahem,somebody has a good taste in beverages,so to speak,the red and white can,and the half gal,will do.

 

[HomeDelight Man]

Hello, I suggest sending them Chain Bar Repair (www.chainbar.com) in Oregon. I sent a couple of 32" and 36" bars there to get trued up and it cost 9 or 10 bucks a piece. They were old style with the true roller and came back close to new condition. Just a thought, Jonathan

 

[eyeinstine]

I gotta agree with Marky and the others here... Why toss out a good bar?? The bar is a wearable item.. That is like throwing out your chain when its dull.

Either your not looking closely at your bar rails, and seeing how frequently it needs a true up, or you just dont worry about it until the bar is so far gone, that it needs to be tossed.. You can always send your junk bars to me, i'll gladly pay the shipping and buy ya a Micky D's lunch.

Cheers,
Ron

 

[Al Smith]

Let me chide in again.I have saved a lot of bars with the old long belt sander.I also have several sets of tapered wedges for spreading bars grooves.In several threads,over the last several months,I've heard of folks complaining about their saws oiling too much.Spare the oil,ruin the bar.Keep that chain sharp,use a good sprocket,flip that bar,use that oil,it's cheap.That ole bar will last a long time.Believe it,or not,I have some bars,from saws of the 60's that were used hard,that still are very servicable,true story.

 

[NWCS]

thats one reason i crank the oilers to MAX on every saw i own if they are adjustable.. rather be spewing oil than smoking my bars.. only reason i have replaced a bar so far is my 036 factory bar got bent when i got it stuck in a tree and cranked the saw sideways. rails still look like new.. and that old bar has cut a LOT of wood. i have never worn a bar out in my life. and have only bent that one bar. learned real fast when bending it cost me $80.
if im running a saw that has a backup manual thumb oiler.. i pump the hell out of it. i buy bar oil by the gallon, and recently switched to buying by the 5 gallon bucket from the local oil company. costs me $3.25 a gallon or so if i supply the bucket. and at the rate my crawler loader used hydraulic oil, i allways have 3 or more empty buckets around.

 

[treesurgeon]

oil=walmart

walmart oil is around 2.00 a gallon