Need help! Having a few issues!

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Isn’t the washer supposed to drop in to the pump below / under the plastic oil pump drive?


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This pic shows no room for a washer and e-clip. Is that how it is when you try to put it back together?View attachment 685562

No when I put it back together there is plenty of room. The clutch drum notches go over the plastic oil pump drive. This allows room for the sprocket to move in and out.
When I put it together it’s perfectly fine.


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Seems that Timmy @cuinrearview don't know what the problem is after all. Hmmmmm..... :dumb:

Come on Timmy -- impress us with your great knowledge on this and all saws that you have fixed with your awesome mechanical skills, vast experience, enlightened intuition and mouse magic.

I know what it is, had the same exact problem on a 372 I built.

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/need-help-having-a-few-issues.326405/#post-6721906

Unless there's some weird taper damage the clutch shouldn't be the issue as long as it's tight. It just spins.
 
Just to be clear, are you saying that when the clutch is first assembled, the clutch drum is free to rotate but as soon as you pull the engine over or start it up, something forces the clutch drum out farther than it should be, and is now locked to the crankshaft and won't return to it's normal position?
 
Every time I’ve had this happen on a Saw either Husqvarna or Stihl the clutch backs it’s self off and pushes on the drum and like you mentioned it’s hard to get the clip off, it’s not rocket science but can be frustrating try find another clutch and see if that changes anything


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The natural inclination of the clutch is to tighten itself relative to the left hand threads (counterclockwise against the crank shoulder) from the opposing clockwise direction of the crankshaft, not loosen up...., unless there's no chain in place and the clutch wasn't properly torqued down in the first place, or there is thread damage to either the clutch or the crank, or all three. Under those circumstances, rapid deceleration of the crank combined with the inertia of the clutch mass could indeed loosen it. That said, it would take an extreme level of negligence (or ignorance) to not notice any of those conditions as contributing factors to causing the problem described if indeed such was the cause.

That's the reason for left hand threads on the PTO side of modern saws.
 
First off. Wet around the muffler and decompression is a classic sign of coil failure with those blue coils. Sometimes they won't run from the last time and othertimes it will fire just enough to run. Sometimes a slower onset or even a little intermittent. The timing starts to go in them. Now you said you tuned it rich?
Make sure the left jet is set correctly. No advantage in turning that rich. Just going to make the insides dirty and die an early death. I ran a 372 for 21 yrs. Clutches are bullet proof. Never really had any trouble on the clutch side.
Got a ported one sent up to me and it was actually oiling for a day then turns out the gear wasnt in the drum slot and melted the gear on. IDK what to think.
No end play in the crank I would assume.
There are a couple variations of worm gears in the family also drum clips and washers. One is a full round clip.
Ones fatter that uses a thinner washer.
You said it it went together fine so...
Yes it matters if the clutch is the right way. Funny you ask that considering it is the right was up in the picture. Was that after you flipped it? Lol

Bearing is good and its not droping needles.
 
First off. Wet around the muffler and decompression is a classic sign of coil failure with those blue coils. Sometimes they won't run from the last time and othertimes it will fire just enough to run. Sometimes a slower onset or even a little intermittent. The timing starts to go in them. Now you said you tuned it rich?
Make sure the left jet is set correctly. No advantage in turning that rich. Just going to make the insides dirty and die an early death. I ran a 372 for 21 yrs. Clutches are bullet proof. Never really had any trouble on the clutch side.
Got a ported one sent up to me and it was actually oiling for a day then turns out the gear wasnt in the drum slot and melted the gear on. IDK what to think.
No end play in the crank I would assume.
There are a couple variations of worm gears in the family also drum clips and washers. One is a full round clip.
Ones fatter that uses a thinner washer.
You said it it went together fine so...
Yes it matters if the clutch is the right way. Funny you ask that considering it is the right was up in the picture. Was that after you flipped it? Lol

Bearing is good and its not droping needles.

The original coil before tear down quit working so I took the blue coil off a parts saw from work. The wet around the decompression was that way with both coils.
Yes I tuned it rich per Husqvarna and a few saw shop directions after installing a new piston and cylinder.
I haven’t messed with the idle screws after the clutch was doing its thing. So tuning is incomplete.
No end play in the crank.
I can try a different worm gear.
No I did not flip the clutch. That is the way I installed it. I had no idea there was a top since there is no “top” labeled on it.




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