I'm a commercial tree cutter with a logging outfit and I'm using an Echo CS-800P which does a fine job but performance wise, it could breath a little better. I've never did a muffler mod before and have found no info pertaining to a MM for this saw. I'm not sure if the CS-8000 has the same muffler or not? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Need help with MM on an Echo 800P
- Thread starter sarge14
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The 8000 muffler design has two exhaust outlets under the slotted cover/fire screen holder which is on the right side of the muffler housing. The smaller of those outlets is straight thru, with the larger outlet baffled internally. The 800p has the exhaust outlet in the front forward upper left corner, with a screen holder and deflector flowing the exhaust to the right across the front of the muffler housing.
I would be conservative in any muffler mod until you see how the engine reacts. When Echo re-released this engine they engineered a new quad port high performance cylinder with a pop up piston. They also engineered a new high performance free flowing muffler for more torque over all rpm ranges. I just dont understand why they went with a smaller carb?
The carb for the 8000 was already too small. Through the Gray years these saws all had HDA-63 carbs which sported a 16.7mm Venturi. As the newest orange models were being released, Echo went to a smaller Walbro HDA-153 with a 15.8mm Venturi? It looks like they kept the smaller carb but added a fast idle choke and a semi fixed jet high circuit with the newest HDA-324. Sounds like the same size carb used on the cs-620? It would be easy to over run it modifying the engine or exhaust.
I understand the balanced concept behind the 800p. It is built well and will last anyone many years with proper maintenance. Maybe a WJ will fit?
I would be conservative in any muffler mod until you see how the engine reacts. When Echo re-released this engine they engineered a new quad port high performance cylinder with a pop up piston. They also engineered a new high performance free flowing muffler for more torque over all rpm ranges. I just dont understand why they went with a smaller carb?
The carb for the 8000 was already too small. Through the Gray years these saws all had HDA-63 carbs which sported a 16.7mm Venturi. As the newest orange models were being released, Echo went to a smaller Walbro HDA-153 with a 15.8mm Venturi? It looks like they kept the smaller carb but added a fast idle choke and a semi fixed jet high circuit with the newest HDA-324. Sounds like the same size carb used on the cs-620? It would be easy to over run it modifying the engine or exhaust.
I understand the balanced concept behind the 800p. It is built well and will last anyone many years with proper maintenance. Maybe a WJ will fit?
bikemike
loud pipes save lives
We need a vid. Echo is a pia in some cases but if you can get past the fine engineering of the road blocks then youl be pleased with the orange critters
Big Block
WFO or I don't go
Pic of the muffler?
If you do decide to open it up, start small 1/2" hole or so under the deflector. will need to retuning the saw after as well.
The small carb is what keeps these larger echos "torquey " for the cc. The port timing isn't drastically different than what ya find in the others.
Would love to see a wj carb from the factory tho.
If you do decide to open it up, start small 1/2" hole or so under the deflector. will need to retuning the saw after as well.
The small carb is what keeps these larger echos "torquey " for the cc. The port timing isn't drastically different than what ya find in the others.
Would love to see a wj carb from the factory tho.
cuse0rang3
ArboristSite Lurker
Alright guys I have to bring this thread back with a question. I pulled the muffler off my 800p today with hopes to open it up a little. (I use it solely for milling). But after getting it off I dont see a good way to get a drill under the deflector. So I thought about drilling a 3/8 hole right in the front above the bracket which would make a straight shot from the exhaust port out the front, no baffle. But I thought I should ask first if this is going to 1) get rid of 2 much back pressure or 2) make the saw ridiculously loud, or both. I took some pictures in case they might help. I drew roughly (inside and outside of muffler) where I'm talking about drilling the hole. And if this is a bad idea, other opinions of what I should do instead are appreciated.
Thanks.
Thanks.
bikemike
loud pipes save lives
That needs to be opened up like a cheep whore
cuse0rang3
ArboristSite Lurker
Haha. Thats one way to put it. I know I have to open it up. Its really constricted and runs hot. Its the "how" that I'm questioning. I have NO experience with this.
bikemike
loud pipes save lives
I would start with finding out how big the venturi ID is in your carb, then find a piece of steel tubing with about the same inner diameter and 3 to 4 inches long and look for the best location for it to exit on the bar side without melting ur chain brake lever. Drill a hole so it fits at a angle and weld it in. Youl se many similar mods in the muffler mod thread
bikemike
loud pipes save lives
And if you don't like it pipe it lol
smaller carb venturi should give more velocity, maybe the design was such they needed it that way. if you dont want the muffler mod to sound too loud, drill a hole or 2 and weld tube with roughly 1/2" sticking in and out the muffler
cuse0rang3
ArboristSite Lurker
So I tried my best to find the answers to these questions before asking it but failed to. Should I decide to pipe it, should the pipe(s) be located where the exhaust must go thru the baffles first, or skip the baffles? Second, if the answer is to pipe it out skipping the baffles, do I need to block off the stock exhaust hole where the deflector is? Thanks again
bikemike
loud pipes save lives
Gutting an echo muffler can be a pain. If it has a baffle then drill holes bigger in the baffle. Most of the exit tubes on saws are on the clutch side but some guys WilL have the exhaust exit on the recoil side. Just depends on personal preference and where it can be done. Check out muffler mod threads and youl se many pics of what guys are doing and info on why they dI'd it the way they did. Pics are probably the best help youl get
Big Block
WFO or I don't go
Lol made my day.
bpt323
New Member
free bump, was there ever any further progress with this?
Flexwingman
ArboristSite Lurker
I too just bought a cs800P. I've thought about buying another muffler and pulling the deflector top off in order to see how restricted it is and possibly drill some holes in it. Then I'd have to weld the top deflector back on. What did you end up doing on yours??
Echo claims to have redesigned the muffler when they went from the 8000 to the 800P for more torque along with the carb change. I'd love to see someone run one on a dyno before and after opening up a deflector to see if it really makes any difference. These mufflers are wide open inside as is the 620P other than the deflector. They can pass epa standards by the silly lean carb settings so why would they restrict the mufflers? Some like the cs 450Ps have a catalyst inside the muffler. Removing those improves performance.
Echo claims to have redesigned the muffler when they went from the 8000 to the 800P for more torque along with the carb change. I'd love to see someone run one on a dyno before and after opening up a deflector to see if it really makes any difference. These mufflers are wide open inside as is the 620P other than the deflector. They can pass epa standards by the silly lean carb settings so why would they restrict the mufflers? Some like the cs 450Ps have a catalyst inside the muffler. Removing those improves performance.
Canyon Angler
Addicted to ArboristSite
To make the saw quieter?
Just a guess
(And just in case you don't know, if you open up your muffler, you're gonna need to richen up the carb, or it's gonna run too lean and possibly get damaged...)
Flexwingman
ArboristSite Lurker
Good point on making it quieter. I just bought a used muffler for it. I know some have built dyno's for chainsaws. It would be easy to have a muffler with an adjustable exhaust port/ baffle and just see how opening it up effects power and torque. Regarding limiters, when ever I get a new saw I mod the limiters and adjust the needles. This 800 was so lean from the factory that it would hesitate even after it warmed up. I'm surprised they don't seize when guys use them new on a cold day. On new saws, I start them up just to be sure they run. I then set them up correctly and run a couple tanks through them at the wood pile. I do this in 4 or 5 heat cycles. Then I call it good. I also don't believe a tack is a good tool for tuning other than telling you how fast it's turning. Cutting wood and tuning by ear is best if you know what your doing.
Canyon Angler
Addicted to ArboristSite
I'm not sure opening the muffler alone is going to increase power, even if you could safely do it without leaning out the saw. My understanding is that the reason opening the muffler increases power is because it allows you to burn more gas faster. You'll dump more unburned gas out the exhaust, lowering your overall efficiency, but you'll also draw in more oxygen with each intake stroke (due to less back pressure), so it'll also burn more gas, giving more power.
If I've got it cattywampus, hopefully someone more knowledgeable will be along soon...
