Need Ideas on MS391

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I bought the Ms391 brand new with the 28" on it and got slammed! Since then I have come to learn the truth is exactly that I bought a saw that works great for what I do. The handle is all plastic, and a POS, I got rid of the star drive and went to a good Oregan rim type. Now if For some reason if I moved to Pennsylvannia, or back East where the order of the day is all hardwood I might reconsider my choice.
The issue of the saw being choked off was the reason I started this thread, hate to break it to the boys but I suspect that these saws are the way of our future, I agree there should be more power from a 64cc saw let's see what we can do about unlocking some.

P.S. I am currently considering trading my 2100cd for a 046 or 044
 
Saw

Terry
I will tell it does not matter one bit how long or short a bar a saw has, the type of chain and how it is filed is the real secret to saw performance. I have seen 50cc saws wearing 24" bars, not that fast but can hold there own. If you have a saw with the bar you like and works stick with it and learn how the saw behaves in wood and adapt your cutting style to fit what the saw likes.
 
ok most of the people that have replied to this thread have proboably never ran a 391. i have, and up untail 3 days ago owned one. (got a trade oppertunity i couldnt turn down for an 066). but thats not here nor there. i like you at first wanted to hot rod mine and did! do a muffler mod and remove the arrestor screen (if emmisions arent strict where you are) and drill two, 5/17
6 holes in the front of your muffler. then remove the air restrictor behing the air filter and also remove the limiting tabs on your hi - low screws and retune. i also upgraded to a non safety full chisel chain and wow. the 391 ran the balls off of our 362 at work. i will advise you to look at your air filter and make sure on the bottom clips there are metal tabs on them. a filter without the metal tabs is an old filter and stihl has a revised filter that has metal tabs for a tighter fit so dust doesnt get past the filter and housing. alll i did was email stihl directly and they forwarded it to the distributor and he called me and sent me the new filter free of charge. btw i ran a 25 inch bar. any questions shoot me a pm
 
Terry
I will tell it does not matter one bit how long or short a bar a saw has, the type of chain and how it is filed is the real secret to saw performance. I have seen 50cc saws wearing 24" bars, not that fast but can hold there own. If you have a saw with the bar you like and works stick with it and learn how the saw behaves in wood and adapt your cutting style to fit what the saw likes.

You are absolutely right the true trick is a good sharp chain, and in some cases the proper chain. My Dad cut trees for a living I don't ever recall him carrying or even owning a round file, and he was always particular about his drag heights, he believed a sharp tool made for easier work.
 
ok most of the people that have replied to this thread have proboably never ran a 391. i have, and up untail 3 days ago owned one. (got a trade oppertunity i couldnt turn down for an 066). but thats not here nor there. i like you at first wanted to hot rod mine and did! do a muffler mod and remove the arrestor screen (if emmisions arent strict where you are) and drill two, 5/17
6 holes in the front of your muffler. then remove the air restrictor behing the air filter and also remove the limiting tabs on your hi - low screws and retune. i also upgraded to a non safety full chisel chain and wow. the 391 ran the balls off of our 362 at work. i will advise you to look at your air filter and make sure on the bottom clips there are metal tabs on them. a filter without the metal tabs is an old filter and stihl has a revised filter that has metal tabs for a tighter fit so dust doesnt get past the filter and housing. alll i did was email stihl directly and they forwarded it to the distributor and he called me and sent me the new filter free of charge. btw i ran a 25 inch bar. any questions shoot me a pm

I can't blame you I'd have made that trade, I will be working that muffler over, the only issue I have is that I have to maintain the spark arrestor screen, the local "Forest Service" kind of frown on not running one around here, But that should be easy enough to work around. I will be emailing Stihl about that air cleaner, thank you!
This is the advice I was looking for when I posted this It is great to hear form people who actually ran the saw.
 
I bought the Ms391 brand new with the 28" on it and got slammed! Since then I have come to learn the truth is exactly that I bought a saw that works great for what I do. The handle is all plastic, and a POS, I got rid of the star drive and went to a good Oregan rim type. Now if For some reason if I moved to Pennsylvannia, or back East where the order of the day is all hardwood I might reconsider my choice.
The issue of the saw being choked off was the reason I started this thread, hate to break it to the boys but I suspect that these saws are the way of our future, I agree there should be more power from a 64cc saw let's see what we can do about unlocking some.

P.S. I am currently considering trading my 2100cd for a 046 or 044

If it is in good shape keep the 2100, 044 and 046s are nice little saws but they are sure not 2100s.
 
Ever run a 391 or are you going on just what you have been told? Because I checked the literature the MS 391 is sold by Stihl with a 28" bar, not the dealer, and I have run it back to back with a 372, guess what they run together. So talk trash all you want, I have owned several saws, know how to tune and run them, been playing this game since I could carry a gas can, I am here to tell you your 372 aren't what they are cracked up to be this 391 revs with 2 372 xp's and pulls right with them. You want pro grade How about a 2100 cd that spins all of 13,500 and never slows down. The way I see it I am talking about what I see you guys are talking about what's on paper and what you been told. If this is the attitude, don't need it.

I am mr stihl,

The 391 is a farmboss (= cheaper built, not designed to last as long as a PRO saw.)

The 362 is a pro saw, and is designed to be used day in and day out by professionals. It is smaller in CCs than the 391 but will cut rings around it all day. It also has a higher power output and is more efficient lighter, etc.etc.

Personally I agree with Brad (blsnelling) 28 inches is WAAAAYYY to big a bar for that saw and I would not run more than a 25 inch in anything other than balsa. Honestly I do not like huskies that much myself but I would say a 372 xp is more of a saw than a 391, sure the 391 might cut with them but for how long. And yes I have used a 391, a 362, a 372xp, 034, 362, 441, 044, 088, 660 magnum, 880 magnum, 038, 355 rancher, 090, 009L etc.etc.

Even though I love my stihls the 391 is one I WILL NOT buy!!!
 
I am mr stihl,

The 391 is a farmboss (= cheaper built, not designed to last as long as a PRO saw.)

The 362 is a pro saw, and is designed to be used day in and day out by professionals. It is smaller in CCs than the 391 but will cut rings around it all day. It also has a higher power output and is more efficient lighter, etc.etc.

Personally I agree with Brad (blsnelling) 28 inches is WAAAAYYY to big a bar for that saw and I would not run more than a 25 inch in anything other than balsa. Honestly I do not like huskies that much myself but I would say a 372 xp is more of a saw than a 391, sure the 391 might cut with them but for how long. And yes I have used a 391, a 362, a 372xp, 034, 362, 441, 044, 088, 660 magnum, 880 magnum, 038, 355 rancher, 090, 009L etc.etc.

Even though I love my stihls the 391 is one I WILL NOT buy!!!

Hey First off I am not here to start a fight!!!! If you want one I invite you to go else where to find it!!! Opinions are important and while I may not agree with yours I promise I will be the first to defend your right to express it. I can run a list of saws I have run too my friend, but I don't have space or time for it!!!! No one is here to hurt your feel goods!!!! We are coming here to come up with ideas to help improve how one particular saws preformance if you are not into that Please DON"T COME AT ALL!!!
 
If it is in good shape keep the 2100, 044 and 046s are nice little saws but they are sure not 2100s.

Hey Guys I appreciate what you are saying, but honestly I got enough extra 2100 stuff to put me another one or two together, I just want to get my hands on a 044 or 046 to see what they are about.
 
My tag say's senior member but fact is I am still learning alot, that's why I keep hanging out here, to learn MORE! There are alot of guys here, that are great teachers whether they realize it or not.
 
Hey Guys I appreciate what you are saying, but honestly I got enough extra 2100 stuff to put me another one or two together, I just want to get my hands on a 044 or 046 to see what they are about.

Borrow one, they are not that impressive. The 1128s are good dependable mid sized saws that will do what mid sized saws do.

How about this,
2100CD=99cc of great saw.
046=76cc, of not 2100CD greatness.
 
I would look for a 046 460, nice to have some extra ccs pulling the chain. There more power the more fun :rock:
 
Borrow one, they are not that impressive. The 1128s are good dependable mid sized saws that will do what mid sized saws do.

How about this,
2100CD=99cc of great saw.
046=76cc, of not 2100CD greatness.

I already pulled out of one 2100 deal, never heard of 1128's, actually my favorite work saws are or have been old 288's The new 385's got way too fat, for that kind of weight your better off going to the 395. I don't want to offend but perhaps you are right, the 372 is in that class, and really I never been impressed with that saw, it just ain't as good as everyone says it is you know what I mean. It is good but not that good. Kinda like the 346, good saw, but not great.
 
They are the Stihl 044,046,440, and 460. 1128 is the series.

Man, who wouldn't take a 460 over a 391?The thing is,though, some of us cannot afford a 460 or can't justify the price for what we would use it for.ie. a few loads of firewood.
The 391 in my opinion is a jam up 500$ saw.I gave 519.00 out the door.Been happy with it over a year now.I work 3 weeks on 3 off schedule and I run it every time I'm home.I like it.I don't know anything about modifying a saw, so I can't speak to that.If I was in the logging business, instead of a part time firewooder, sure, make mine a 660.
 
Man, who wouldn't take a 460 over a 391?The thing is,though, some of us cannot afford a 460 or can't justify the price for what we would use it for.ie. a few loads of firewood.
The 391 in my opinion is a jam up 500$ saw.I gave 519.00 out the door.Been happy with it over a year now.I work 3 weeks on 3 off schedule and I run it every time I'm home.I like it.I don't know anything about modifying a saw, so I can't speak to that.If I was in the logging business, instead of a part time firewooder, sure, make mine a 660.

Mt point exactly, a inexpensive well preforming saw, damn that will never sale. I agree if I worked cutting timber, instead of firewood. My 288 would be the smallest I would go, I to would be grabbing a 066, but you and I both know there are a lot more people out there buying these saws, unfortunately ms391 is becoming a dirty word around here, that's cool I like mine, I plan to keep it. Guess the point here is I got saws, I need power I got a full running 2100( with parts I got 2), and a good 288xp, I want small or not a lot of weight I now have a nice stihl 028 AV woods boss. And the 391 is in the middle, rides well in the back of the truck, and if I decide to grab a quick load of wood it is there ready to run, It does what it needs too, at a lot less then the 361 0r 362.
 
Ok. I have popped limiter caps before, this time didn't workout so well, the head of the screw, came with it. Replaced the screw, and now I can't get the top end I had, pulled the carb down, this is a strange looking little guy, it has a opening in the carb and a butterfly mounted on the fuel intake side that runs right into the manifold, don't completely understand this, and didn't take the carb down completely I found I had managed to crack the area around the high needle and suspect it is sucking air. I didn't mess with it. I have a new Carburator on the way, point being be gentle when pulling this cap, further I don't think it is a necessary thing, my dealer told me he tuned it to right around 11,900 to 12,000 before it left his shop, and I been maintaining it.
Personally I suggest working the muffler over, and follow Hillbilly rednecs advice, work on keeping that chain super sharp. There some good threads on here about that, he is absolutely right the most powerful saw won't achieve it's full potential with a dull chain. Like I said I have pulled alot of limiter caps, either I had a flimsy carb, or removing the limiters on this carb causes it to self destruct, fact is I don't see the value of removing it, let it be, and port the muffler.
 
I am no authority, but for what it is worth I think a full skip 28" bar on a 391 is cool. One of the first saws I ran back in the early 90's was an 039, so I get a kick out of this thread. I suppose it would bog down out here in Indiana if you sunk it in a fat red oak or bitternut hickory, but I bet it tears up those softwoods. I worked in Colorado and ran a 360/036 with a 25 inch bar and full skip chain dropping twenty inch plus mistletoe infested Ponderosa all day. It just ate them up and spat out ribbons.

I drove through Escalante last summer while inventorying Utah's forests. That is some ridiculously pretty country down there, arid as anything though.
 
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I am no authority, but for what it is worth I think a full skip 28" bar on a 391 is cool. One of the first saws I ran back in the early 90's was an 039, so I get a kick out of this thread. I suppose it would bog down out here in Indiana if you sunk it in a fat red oak or bitternut hickory, but I bet it tears up those softwoods. I worked in Colorado and ran a 360/036 with a 25 inch bar and full skip chain dropping twenty inch plus mistletoe infested Ponderosa all day. It just ate them up and spat out ribbons.

I drove through Escalante last summer while inventorying Utah's forests. That is some ridiculously pretty country down there, arid as anything though.

I honestly think you are right about the bar out here the toughest wood I get into is some cottonwood, or a little Chinese Elm( that's on the agenda for today). Back East I don't think I would put much over about 18" to 20".
I love this country been here all my life, and don't plan to leave any time soon. My work takes me all over the country and I keep coming back and calling this home. Twenty minutes North of town 10,000' above sea level and tough mountains, twenty minutes south of town, and your in the middle of the Page Arizona Desert, who could ask for more. By the way this spring is pretty wet everything is green and beautiful, after seeing it in draught, you'd love it now, come see us any time.
 
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