Good idea MD. That would also keep the birds from eating all the seed. I overseeded a month or so ago, and the birds all got fat munchin' on my dime!
Need soil/lawn help.
- Thread starter BostonBull
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Good idea MD. That would also keep the birds from eating all the seed. I overseeded a month or so ago, and the birds all got fat munchin' on my dime!
BostonBull
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I have overseeded twice already. Once in late March, and then again in Late April/early May.
I now need to get the soil where it needs to be. The test results are encouraging. It seems I am not THAT far off.
I will look into the compost blowing service.
I now need to get the soil where it needs to be. The test results are encouraging. It seems I am not THAT far off.
I will look into the compost blowing service.
BB,
I thought I remember you saying your lawn wasn't that big. Might be able to get it done with a wheelbarrow and rake.
BostonBull
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I probably could, BUT the only way into my backyard is up and OVER my 6 foot retaining wall. Puts a damper on things when shoveling 3-4 yards of compost or peat.
Ill figure it out........
Dixie1
ArboristSite Operative
in the "Lawn" sample your pH is 6.3 and it tells you to add lime? I wouldn't want my pH any higer than that and would not add lime. You are trying to grow fescue right? Optimal pH levels for fescue is 5.5 to 6.5 so according to your analysis you are right in line. correct me if I'm wrong about the type of grass you are wanting.
BostonBull
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Its a mix of Fescue and Bluegrasses. I have a fair amount of shade on the property.
New England soils tend to be VERY acidy, and I believe that was the reasoning for the recommendations.
Here is good link about lawns and lime (not the disease). They say 6-7 is the optimal pH range.
http://ohioline.osu.edu/agf-fact/0401.html
http://ohioline.osu.edu/agf-fact/0401.html
Dixie1
ArboristSite Operative
sounds like you are still where you need to be as far as pH goes for your turf requirements. this site states 5.6 - 6.5 for fescue? http://pubs.caes.uga.edu/caespubs/pubcd/L354.htm
BostonBull
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I could be wrong here but could the same plant require different PH levels, in different parts of the country??
Decaying grass and added fertilizer will tend to further acidify soil at the surface, that is the reason I was given to regularly add lime. But I have to admit that perhaps I am just treating myself as much as the lawn.
BostonBull
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I applied 80 lbs of lime to the back lawn today as was recommended in the soil test results. I also applied 7 pounds of fertilizer. They recommended 30-3-3. I couldnt find this I could only find 29-3-4. Do you think the extra Potassium will be bad since I already have very high Potassium (168 PPM)?
They also recommended this same fert. application in Late April and late June. I did the first one now in late May. So in late June should I do another application but reduce the amount by........?
Thanks guys!!!!
PS......WOW thats a lot of lime!
They also recommended this same fert. application in Late April and late June. I did the first one now in late May. So in late June should I do another application but reduce the amount by........?
Thanks guys!!!!
PS......WOW thats a lot of lime!
BostonBull
Addicted to ArboristSite
Anyone know of a good ORGANIC fertilizer that is 30-3-3? I would like to use as many ORGANIC products as I can find.
I don't think there is an organic that has those kind of numbers, however I have only done a little with the orgnanics. In terms of fertilizer's, one of the best ones that I know of is chicken poop and that is something like 4-1-2. It does not have high numbers but it is slow release and There is something The organics will have much lower numbers but I think are better in the long run.
There is one organice nitrogen product called Pro-Booster and it is 10-0-0.
It looked like your soil was pretty bad in terms of organic content. One thing to consider doing if you have not already is to put some compost down. I think it is getting late to really lay it on thick, but maybe not for the Boston area. In the fall do it again especially after a good aeration. It will be costly but your soil will improve. When the soil gets better you should start getting worms into the soil, and they are like diamonds making black gold for your lawn.
Some other links:
Colo State fertilizer analysis
Organic Lawn Care FAQ
Doing this is like treework. Don't expect immediate results, give it time but keep at it. Hopefully you'll get it to a point where you have to do very little to keep it healthy.
I'm totally shooting from the hip on this, but don't you guys think alot of the tiny little difference between the fertilizers is just marketing BS. I'm c'mon You put on any good amount of nitrogen and it will go green and lush whether it is 20 or 30.
I was on a mission to eradicate my lawn of all weeds - including clover - until I found out clover creates nitrogen that feeds the soil. Now I am ok with some clover in my grass.
I was on a mission to eradicate my lawn of all weeds - including clover - until I found out clover creates nitrogen that feeds the soil. Now I am ok with some clover in my grass.
I agree, clover isn't bad. Soft, looks okay, and easy to kill if you ever decide to.
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