need some advice for a removal with a crane

[what-a-stihl]

I have experience climbing and removals but this weekend will be the first removal with a crane, any advice or things I should know going into this?

 

[tree MDS]

If you already have removal experience, you shouldn't have any trouble.

Crane assisted tree removal is really the wave of the future for all climbers. Pretty soon treeguys won't even be required to know any knots, and large removals will be going for dirt cheap, as every lawn guy and his cousin will be taking "monster pics", with their trusty Echo's.

Welcome to modern times... where the heels fall off a $260 pair of Redwing loggers within ten months, and the cigarettes won't stay lit long enough for you to finish a sentence!

To progress!

 

[what-a-stihl]

If you already have removal experience, you shouldn't have any trouble.

Crane assisted tree removal is really the wave of the future for all climbers. Pretty soon treeguys won't even be required to know any knots, and large removals will be going for dirt cheap, as every lawn guy and his cousin will be taking "monster pics", with their trusty Echo's.

Welcome to modern times... where the heels fall off a $260 pair of Redwing loggers within ten months, and the cigarettes won't stay lit long enough for you to finish a sentence!

To progress!

Thanks tree mds, well put. I was wondering if I should use nylon straps as a choker or cables? is one choker placed up high enough? Do I V-cut the tree with a little hinge left and let the operator rock it out or do I straight cut the tree as he takes tension off.

 

[imagineero]

Thanks tree mds, well put. I was wondering if I should use nylon straps as a choker or cables? is one choker placed up high enough? Do I V-cut the tree with a little hinge left and let the operator rock it out or do I straight cut the tree as he takes tension off.

If you've down removals with a friction drum, a GRCS or similar or just a rope and a few guys on the end then you'll be fine. Good general rules to remember are that all crane operators are not created equal, and those without tree experience can be pretty unsafe to deal with. It's your life on the line, and your job, so do take control of the situation from the start and don't let it get to a point where the tail is wagging the dog.

Take smaller pieces than you think you can, until you and the crane op get a feel for it. Think carefully about balance of the branch at the rigging point to avoid branches flipping. Start at the top and work down so you don't get the crane tangled in the canopy. Think about the path the crane is going to have to take with the branch. In general, have the crane position so that as he takes up strain he will open the cut eg. if the trunk is a leaner, have the crane on the high side and you cut the low side. As he lifts, the cut will open progressively. This prevents him taking too much and creating a springboard situation. If the spar is straight up and down and you're chunking then have him off to the side - not directly above - and have him on your far side. That was as you make the cut it will open up away from you and fall away from you. This is one of the areas where the difference between crane ops with and without tree experience really shines. Inexperienced operators put way too much pull on the line. You have to control them especially if they don't have a load cell to measure their load. If the guy is a real cowboy then dont use him to lift at all - treat him as a static high point and drop the tree onto him - once he has it he can take it away.

Again - don't get greedy and take big pieces. Most crane accidents I've seen involve people taking big unbalanced chunks that flip, like really big tops.

If it's your job and your money then consider getting there the day before and deciding where you will cut the tree, and pre-rigging all the slings. That's how I do mine, but you do need a big bundle of slings to do it. Make sure the crane op is willing to use your slings - some aren't. I get my crane jobs done very fast this way, I can cut them as quick as he can get them to the ground as it's all ready to go and there's no head scratching.

Shaun

 

[deevo]

Thanks tree mds, well put. I was wondering if I should use nylon straps as a choker or cables? is one choker placed up high enough? Do I V-cut the tree with a little hinge left and let the operator rock it out or do I straight cut the tree as he takes tension off.

Most crane operators I have worked with supply there own slings/straps etc...they know their equipment and trust it.

 

[imagineero]

In most cases this comes down to OHS rules for testing and tagging. Most slings used by tree workers are either the industrial heavy duty tested and tagged kind, or the rock climbing kind, or the kind you buy in a length and then tie. I come from a long background of using most kinds and have no problem with any, as long as they are in serviceable condition. In my experience, most crane ops who have been in the industry long enough take the common sense approach, while guys with less experience tend to go with 'store bought only'.

There's some pretty good evidence to suggest that the heavy duty crane type slings ought to be used for heavy rigging - the smaller rock climbing/knotted types do fail significantly below the expected load ratings in most cases, there is quite a lot of test data out there to substantiate it. Thankfully most slings are never used at anywhere near their loaded rating. Play it by ear though, and do ask the crane op.

Shaun

 

[what-a-stihl]

thanks again guys for the advice, it's greatly appreciated