newlotstolearn
ArboristSite Lurker
I think with the anti vibration torn loose.... the motor/saw hangs really loose from the back handle.... I'm thinking about tangling with one of the other saws, their outer structure looks in much better shape.
Need to get these running
- Thread starter newlotstolearn
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I think with the anti vibration torn loose.... the motor/saw hangs really loose from the back handle.... I'm thinking about tangling with one of the other saws, their outer structure looks in much better shape.
newlotstolearn
ArboristSite Lurker
what exactly do you mean "better compression"?
adkranger
Addicted to ArboristSite
The engine needs to be able to obtain a minimum amount of compression to run properly. Usually expressed in PSI. It varies for different saws but generally you'll want at least 120 psi. Since you're a newbie and probably don't have access to a proper pressure guage you can do a simple redneck compression check. Pick up the saw (with the kill switch in the Off position), then hold the entire saw at waist level from just the starter handle. If the saw has decent compression it will slowly "walk" down the starter rope. You hear thup.............thup.................thup..................thup = Good. You hear thup..thup..thup..thup = Not good. Slower the better. If it just hangs static =
Just to clarify, you are not trying to start the saw, remember kill switch off!! But you do have to have a spark plug installed properly.
That 51 is going to be a tough fix. The lower right AV mount (under bar mount location) looks like it's broken right out of casting. Which means you'll need a new crankcase. I'm not an expert on these models, maybe someone else can confirm for you, but that's what it looks like to me. Maybe post up some pics of the other two. Sometimes even if you can get the motor to run there may be enough other problems that would make it tough to obtain safe operational saw out of it. That front lower AV mount is going to be a tough fix I think.
Good luck and welcome to the insanity.
newlotstolearn
ArboristSite Lurker
The 257
This is the one that burped for me. I did what you said, holding it up by the pull rope (kill switch set to "Stop"), it went down a little bit, and I could hear gas passing through somewhere, went down a little bit more after a couple of seconds, again a little sound of gas (air) moving through somewhere, and it stopped. Where the pull rope is in the pics is as far in as it goes. Pretty thick in there with the muck.
This is the one that burped for me. I did what you said, holding it up by the pull rope (kill switch set to "Stop"), it went down a little bit, and I could hear gas passing through somewhere, went down a little bit more after a couple of seconds, again a little sound of gas (air) moving through somewhere, and it stopped. Where the pull rope is in the pics is as far in as it goes. Pretty thick in there with the muck.
nate cutter
ArboristSite Operative
love that chain muffler mod o the 51
billmartin
ArboristSite Operative
The 257 sounds to be the one to start with, if the pullcord only goes that far and sticks is it full of gunk? Does it pull all the way out and return properly?
Starting sequence for those saws that works best for me(I learned here too) Full choke till it burps/coughs then choke lever in and pull till it starts. Should be only 2-4 pulls, but thats in a perfect world lol.
pulling the muffler on these huskys is easy. take off the two bolts(allen head) that attatch it to the case then remove the two that are bolted thru the muffler.
One thing going your way is that the 257 and 261 are easy to work on being that they are built like a pro saw.
LOL in two weeks you will probly have ported them all
Welcome to the site
Bill
Starting sequence for those saws that works best for me(I learned here too) Full choke till it burps/coughs then choke lever in and pull till it starts. Should be only 2-4 pulls, but thats in a perfect world lol.
pulling the muffler on these huskys is easy. take off the two bolts(allen head) that attatch it to the case then remove the two that are bolted thru the muffler.
One thing going your way is that the 257 and 261 are easy to work on being that they are built like a pro saw.
LOL in two weeks you will probly have ported them all
Welcome to the site
Bill
newlotstolearn
ArboristSite Lurker
yeah, but I am a little worried about that sound I was hearing though. I went back and did it again, and gas came out of where the spark plug is, I checked to make sure the plug was tight and it was. When I closed the choke it didn't come down at all but still made the sound, and no gas came out.
And in the first set of pictures I took.... isn't that the cylinder in the7th pic? The 7th pic as posted by mastermind7864
And in the first set of pictures I took.... isn't that the cylinder in the7th pic? The 7th pic as posted by mastermind7864
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newlotstolearn
ArboristSite Lurker
And no its not going all the way back in, the pull cord on the 257 that is. All but one "notch"
mtfallsmikey
Addicted to ArboristSite
I embellished your photos a little. The muffler is in front. Two bolts secure it to the cylinder - to the right of the muffler. There may also be 2-3 bolts securing a brace to the muffler. Remove the muffler to see the piston. Remove the spark plug and slowly pull the starter cord to move the piston. It should appear smooth as in the photo. If you see score marks, don't try to start it - you may cause more damage. Do some searches on this subject and you'll see what a bad piston looks like.
The Carb is under the air filter. I believe the adjustment screws are on the side with the starter. Do some searches on tuning - there are some good ones.
To remove the bar and chain, first make sure the chainbrake is release - the chain should move freely. Remove the two nuts on the clutch cover and remove the cover. Expect to see more crud. You can then slide the bar out on the studs to clear the adjuster pawl and then remove the chain - start at the outer end of the bar and then take the chain off the clutch. You can then remove the bar.
Pay attention to Buzz...he's kinda smart....surprised he knows where all of the parts are on a Husky...
I still need to send you that ad too,Buzz...I haven't forgotten.
Thanks for the compliment? lol I have ventured into the dark side - and came out smiling. Newlots - the carb adjustment screws on my 268 are just to the rear of the starter handle - one hole with two smaller holes below it.
adkranger
Addicted to ArboristSite
OK newlots.. sounds like the 257 is a candidate. If it's pushing & squeezing air and fuel around that's good. Now clean that puppy up and take stock of what you've got. Hint, do a good job segregating parts & bits when disassembling so you know where they go back.
newlotstolearn
ArboristSite Lurker
257 to start then
Ok... I will go take it all apart and clean it up some so you can tell me what to do some more
Ok... I will go take it all apart and clean it up some so you can tell me what to do some more
stinkbait
Addicted to ArboristSite
Make sure that you post more pics as you take it apart.
newlotstolearn
ArboristSite Lurker
noticed that the 261 is leaking gas. Looks like its coming out where it goes into the carborator. Thats just a side note though, I haven't gotten to the 261 yet.
I have started taking apart the 257 though. I snapped a couple pics, and cleaned up just a little bit as I took it apart. Gotta find a hex wrench to go any farther though I think. Some gas was leaking out of where the spark plug goes in, when I was trying to start it, and when I held it up, and it was dropping with its weight.
I have started taking apart the 257 though. I snapped a couple pics, and cleaned up just a little bit as I took it apart. Gotta find a hex wrench to go any farther though I think. Some gas was leaking out of where the spark plug goes in, when I was trying to start it, and when I held it up, and it was dropping with its weight.
newlotstolearn
ArboristSite Lurker
a few more pics of the 257. I anxiously await advice on what to do next.
Is it ok to clean the oustide clutch cover plates etc. with water and sponge?
Is it ok to clean the oustide clutch cover plates etc. with water and sponge?
neutral4x4
ArboristSite Operative
It looks like you're doing great!
It's fine to clean the cover off, but I don't think water is going to cut it. I usually just wipe mine off with a rag or scrape it with a screwdriver if stuff is really stuck on there.
Since you're working on it (and it's always more fun to work on clean equipment), I would spray the dirty parts down with some degreaser (Mean Green from dollar general works awesome) then wash everything off with some water.
Here are the steps that I do when going through a new (to me) saw.
1) Clean all of the crud off from it that I can easily clean with compressed air and a rag so I can see what's going on.
2) Pull the spark plug to check for foreign objects. If you see metal or anything that doesn't look like it's just carbon (burned on oil deposits), you'll have to pull the whole engine apart to clean it out. You'll probably want to do that eventually either way, but I wouldn't if everything is clear.
3) Put the spark plug in the boot (the black rubber thing that snaps onto the spark plug) and set the metal part of the plug on the outside of the cylinder (big metal thing that the spark plug threads into) to ground it. Turn on the power switch and pull it over. Don't touch the spark plug when you do this or you might get a jolt (my pops thought that was as funny as hell). You should see a spark at the end of the plug.
4) If you saw a spark, pour a little bit of gas and oil mix into the spark plug hole, thread the plug in and try to start it. If it starts up, put some fresh gas in the tank, pour a little more gas in the spark plug hole and see if it'll stay running. If it won't, it isn't a big deal, but you might need to clean your carb. If it won't even pop, then check the cylinder for scoring.
Hope that helps,
Eric
It's fine to clean the cover off, but I don't think water is going to cut it. I usually just wipe mine off with a rag or scrape it with a screwdriver if stuff is really stuck on there.
Since you're working on it (and it's always more fun to work on clean equipment), I would spray the dirty parts down with some degreaser (Mean Green from dollar general works awesome) then wash everything off with some water.
Here are the steps that I do when going through a new (to me) saw.
1) Clean all of the crud off from it that I can easily clean with compressed air and a rag so I can see what's going on.
2) Pull the spark plug to check for foreign objects. If you see metal or anything that doesn't look like it's just carbon (burned on oil deposits), you'll have to pull the whole engine apart to clean it out. You'll probably want to do that eventually either way, but I wouldn't if everything is clear.
3) Put the spark plug in the boot (the black rubber thing that snaps onto the spark plug) and set the metal part of the plug on the outside of the cylinder (big metal thing that the spark plug threads into) to ground it. Turn on the power switch and pull it over. Don't touch the spark plug when you do this or you might get a jolt (my pops thought that was as funny as hell). You should see a spark at the end of the plug.
4) If you saw a spark, pour a little bit of gas and oil mix into the spark plug hole, thread the plug in and try to start it. If it starts up, put some fresh gas in the tank, pour a little more gas in the spark plug hole and see if it'll stay running. If it won't, it isn't a big deal, but you might need to clean your carb. If it won't even pop, then check the cylinder for scoring.
Hope that helps,
Eric
newlotstolearn
ArboristSite Lurker
Thanks
It has spark,. Wouldn't start though.
Gas is coming out where the blue knob is (compression release?), thats also where the noise I have been hearing is coming from. spraying sound.
It has spark,
. Wouldn't start though.Gas is coming out where the blue knob is (compression release?), thats also where the noise I have been hearing is coming from. spraying sound.
neutral4x4
ArboristSite Operative
Ahhh ok.
That would be the decompression valve. Try pulling on the knob and see if you can get it to seat.
If the decompression valve is carboned up, you could get an air leak that could make your saw seize. I have a 350 sitting on my bench that needs a new piston because that valve jammed up. It was closed enough that the saw would run, but leaked enough that it ruined the piston.
If you can't get it to seat, you should be able to put a socket over the valve and turn it out of the cylinder (it has a crush washer just like a spark plug). Try swapping it with the valve from the 51. All of the decompression valves have the same threading on husqvarna saws, so they're all interchangeable.
That would be the decompression valve. Try pulling on the knob and see if you can get it to seat.
If the decompression valve is carboned up, you could get an air leak that could make your saw seize. I have a 350 sitting on my bench that needs a new piston because that valve jammed up. It was closed enough that the saw would run, but leaked enough that it ruined the piston.
If you can't get it to seat, you should be able to put a socket over the valve and turn it out of the cylinder (it has a crush washer just like a spark plug). Try swapping it with the valve from the 51. All of the decompression valves have the same threading on husqvarna saws, so they're all interchangeable.
newlotstolearn
ArboristSite Lurker
there is a hole that is letting gas/air out right there where it is. If it was siezed wouldn't I not be able to pull it at all? I pushed it in, had a harder time pulling. Then pulled it back out, and pulling was a little easier.
compression release
The compression release ,when pushed in is supposed to make it easier to pull over to start the saw. Then the compression from running is supposed to "seat" the valve so no air/gas gets in or out.
Remove the valve and clean it real good with a carb or brake cleaner and reinstall.
Try not to get any solvents on the coil, the black piece that the spark plug wire comes from.
Compressed air with SMALL amounts of lubricants like WD-40, Siliakroil etc will remove lots of crud. MAKE sure You have air filter on and either muffler on, or a CLEAN rag whereit is supposed to go.!
If You don't have a compressor caned air will work in short blasts,but not very cost efficient
Good luck with them and I sure do wish my 2100's came with decomp valves
The compression release ,when pushed in is supposed to make it easier to pull over to start the saw. Then the compression from running is supposed to "seat" the valve so no air/gas gets in or out.
Remove the valve and clean it real good with a carb or brake cleaner and reinstall.
Try not to get any solvents on the coil, the black piece that the spark plug wire comes from.
Compressed air with SMALL amounts of lubricants like WD-40, Siliakroil etc will remove lots of crud. MAKE sure You have air filter on and either muffler on, or a CLEAN rag whereit is supposed to go.!
If You don't have a compressor caned air will work in short blasts,but not very cost efficient
Good luck with them and I sure do wish my 2100's came with decomp valves
